Update from my last post: -Cannot get truck to run after trying everything. Crank but no start. Either sludge is holding the engine back, it’s something very simple, or it’s completely broken. One thing I ask: how long can a 6V battery last? After 1 crank the truck will partially seize or crank slow/normal. Here’s a list of the updated advice for fixes: 1. Timing is set and has been correct 2. Brand new battery installed 3. Accelerator pump works 4. Fuel sits in carb bowl and flows 5. Spark plugs blue spark outside engine; gapped .025 6. Distributor as normal 6. Manifold turns fuel into vapor 7. Open choke, closed throttle, closed choke and throttle, closed choke open throttle; nothing. 8. Starter fluid? Nothing. 9. No flooding 10. Suction in carb No backfire, no start, no explosion, no fire. Just cranking for eternity. I don’t want to have to open up the truck but it’s getting that way. Anything out there that can be causing it to crank inconsistently with no start? Am I missing something crucial? It doesnt make sense guys, I’ve seen worse engines come to life.
If no spark, start from there. 6v turns slower than 12v. And needs to “rest” sometimes when continued cranking. (My experience anyway) I’d start with checking voltage to the distributor. Remove cap, crank engine, check for spark on tne points. No voltage to the distributor, back track from there. No voltage leaving the distributor, points, condenser, coil or wiring can be a cause. As always, check grounds. Never hurts to confirm good compression as well.
If spark and no starting then fuel and compression. A timing issue should still hit. And you have confirmed the plugs are sparking?
6V batteries can be an issue these days. Could be shorted. Try a 12V, just turn everything else off. And before anyone screams foul, a starter motor is ok on 12V, it'll like the amps. Now all this assumes you can put the truck in hi gear and move the motor, or even put a socket on the front and turn it by hand. Again, new 6V batteries can sometimes be a problem and warp/short plates easily. A jump box or a known 12V battery and jumper cables, remove when started.
Fuel forms as a fine mist in the intake manifold. Ignition timing was checked 2 times by someone who restores jeeps. Plugs are sparking but maybe not strong enough as my guess. So, since I have all the components ready, and it wont start, I assume it’s just tweaks needed to said components to get her running?
On another note, how reliable were these cars back in the day compared to today? It feels like there is no room for error in these things. I.E. 1 slightly corroded cable or worn component and you’re taking the bike to work back then. It’s just blowing my mind right now
Extremely reliable. But required more frequent maintenance. I drove my 49 gmc daily. But points were replaced and a carb freshen up about 12k worth of driving. compared to today? A new one can go over 100k without a tune up. But that tune up is expensive. Old is simple. But requires more attention. Tune ups, grease the chassis, occasional valve adjust, a carb rebuild. All the fun stuff gearheads like doing.
Have you got compression ? if you got spark at the plugs it should at least fart n sputter ! Especially on starter fluid !! timing out 180*? Compression ? Leak down test ? suck Squeeze Bang Blow 4 words not relegated to just the bed room
Timing should be 4 degrees. You set it by removing a spark plug and measure piston down in hole. Don’t remember exactly. Go to Steel Soldiers website they can help you better. All military vehicles all the time. May even be able to turn you on to the military training manuals (service manuals in civilian talk). WARNING! Their kind of a bunch of jerks! Don’t cuss, say your prayers before bedtime and no longhairs! You better be prepared to do some research first before asking questions. But they did help me with my 1971 M35a2 6x6. Good luck. Look in the WWII WC section first.
If you have fuel & spark, you are half way there. Check the compression for each cylinder. Verify timing isn't 180 off.
I do have a known good 6v battery if you are in the SF Bay Area, you can have it for free. I have a 6v generator from a chevy pickup also, if you can use it and you're in the area. Both are free for pickup if you're interested. I had a problem with my 235 where sometimes it would crank, and others it just didn't have enough power to turn it over. I ended up converting to 12v. I have seem people using the 6v starter with a 12v battery, and they will last for a long time. I have not tried it and ended up converting to 12v. In my case I have a high compression '54-'62 235 w/lubrication, and I figured that was the reason. NOTE: if you hook up a 12v battery to your 6v system, make sure you're gauges are protected, I believe I had to put a resistor on the fuel gauge. I have an alternator in mine now. Also, you might not be able to swap starters if the pinion is different. Jim Carter had my original starter rebuilt as 12v to keep the old pinion. Check all this out before swapping any parts, including the battery.
I had same problem and it was my points. I took a piece of fine sandpaper and ran it back n forth a few times then I Made sure I put a piece of paper through them To clean em. Sometimes they are just Poly or dirty . If you have spark them you should be ok. As far as battery lagging is your cable good? Also you have positive ground so make sure it’s hooked up right.
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