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Technical 1933 ford subrails attachments

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Omarsvette, May 25, 2022.

  1. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I have mock the subrails onto the original 33 ford frame. I dropped the floorless body onto the car. There is no rockers (body is braced). How does the body attach to the subrails?
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,193

    alchemy
    Member

    Welded. Formed braces at the A and B pillars, and spot welded all along the wheelwell. And the tail panels.
     
    Tman likes this.
  3. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    '33-'34 three windows used wooden b pillars,
    heavier gauge b pillar mounts than closed cars,
    the CC b pillars are stamped steel channel...
     
  4. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Ok my car is a 5 window. What does the b pillar look like when attached to the subrail/ frame? My bottom pillar is cut off so I need a visual reference.
     
  5. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,867

    6sally6
    Member

  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,141

    rusty valley
    Member

    I see in another post you are looking for the bolt hole location. You have the floor on the frame 1st I assume ? the holes are all in the stock floor...if thats what you have
     
  7. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I don’t have the floor on only new, no holes subrails. My frame is a truck 1933 frame, so no pre drilled holes for the B pillar attachment. And my B pillars are cut off at the bottom. So you understand my dilemma.

    And my cowl is destroyed ant the bottom (car was channeled, no inner cowl structure). I’m grafting in a replacement original intact cowl to use as a guide as well as the hood and radiator to help me center the car to get a better idea where the b pillar would attach.
     
  8. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,141

    rusty valley
    Member

    I've never started with bits and pieces, but I believe the correct process is you start with the floor on a leveled frame. The pick up frame will have some differences, but you need a floor first.
     
  9. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I agree. But I have nothing to attach the body too. I’m missing the pillar tab and the cowl inner braces. If I had those I’d be able to drop the body and level it using those bolt holes.
     
  10. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I planned on doing the floor first but the existing bolt hole are for a truck cab. I thought of using westcotts diagram dimensions but the bolt hole for the pillars are given. That’s why I was asking on the hamb if anyone had that measurement. That hole is center to the pillar, I could build of that.
     
  11. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    What’s TTT mean?
     
  12. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,141

    rusty valley
    Member

    "To The Top ". You still have not said if you have a floor. new one? original one? none? The floor will have all those bolt locations. There are also some at the bottom of the rear wheel wells, thru the side of the frame. Some pictures would help. Have you clicked on the build threads to study up ?
     
  13. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I have new flooring and subrails. No pre drilled holes. I only have the subrails on the frame, mocked and held by vise grips.
     
  14. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    AE6F782F-3595-42A3-AF66-FBFBA25978D8.jpeg BFE8A36B-ECF2-47CA-8823-551BEACE7451.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    The last photo shows where the bottom of the b pillar was cut off
     
  16. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,643

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    upload_2022-5-26_11-15-24.png 34 pillar 1.JPG 34 pillar 2.JPG 34 pillar 7.JPG 34 pillar 8.JPG 34 pillar 9.JPG 34 pillar 10.JPG 34 pillar 13.JPG 34 pillar 14.JPG 34 pillar 15.JPG 34 pillar base.JPG
    With the Wescott diagram you should be able to measure the holes off others the pickup frame has. This diagram has pickup & commercial on top, passenger on bottom. This is the pillar bottom for my tudor, a five window is very similar, not sure about a 3 window. The recess in the side of the subrail is where the pillar lands for bodies with shorter doors. Hopefully the pictures give you an idea of whats needed.
     
  17. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,141

    rusty valley
    Member

    Nice brackets you made there Johnboy
     
    continentaljohn and Johnboy34 like this.
  18. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Yes that’s exactly what I plan to do. Thank you for the visual. I figured the recess in the subrail was for the pillar bracket. My pillar is center of that recess now. So I know I’m close. The only measurement not on the westcotts diagram is the top bolt hole to the pillar and the two side bolts. I called westcotts and they didn’t have that measurement. Those holes will tell me where the body attaches to vertical and lateral.
     
  19. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,643

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Thanks, all 14 gauge as original.
     
    rusty valley likes this.
  20. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 612

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    It would be nice if you repop those.
     

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