I have a 292 y block that needs valve adjustment. I have seen multiple ways on how to adjust them. Has anyone adjusted the valve lash on a 292 y block using the motor running method?
I have set lash with the motor warmed up and idling as low as possible on Chevy 6's, 409's and all types of SBC's, with solid lifters or hydraulics. I don't trust any other way. It can get messy at times, but it's worth the peace of mind to me.
If you have a spare valve cover you can cut the centre out, and replace the good one while you are adjusting the valves running. Saves making an oily mess everywhere. A bit tricky with a Y block because of the centre stud mount, but I'm sure you can work something out.
Yes years ago but no longer. If you do. Cut a piece of cardboard or similar and place it between the springs and edge of the head. If a cardboard type material I use clear 2” packing tape to line it so any oil splashing on it will run off faster. I put dry rags on the exhaust manifolds. Set at .019”. It’s good time to check and see if oil is coming out each over flow as the oil will be warm. Remember these are no Chevrolets and very little oil splash and there is no squirting. I like the angle feeler gauges for this. Today I have a trigger switch which I attach to the battery positive and a wire on the solenoid on the right fender well. Leave the key off and bump so each opposite valve is fully open and do the other one. If you do it with the key, pull the coil wire. Good luck.
I tried that method when I was young, but didn't take long to figure out that it's a lot easier to tell what's going on with it not running.
Yeah...no..! I've also given it a try, it's WAY too easy to screw up the adjustment. I've tried hot, engine not running. The ONLY way that this works...well...is to do ne side, reheat the engine, than do the other side. Too much work. Parts hot, easy to be burned. So, my current method, as done like more actual race engine mechanics, I do my adjustments...cold. All engine parts remain...the same temperature, no skin burns, you can take your time. Mike
I learned to do it cold but with a twist. Get the engine to operating temperature and adjust one cylinders valves hot to the cam card specs. Now go get a cold beverage of your choice and wait for everything to cool off completely (okay so you may consume a 6-pack or two...). Once cold, check the lash on that same cylinder. Write the numbers down because otherwise you'll forget and have to do it again. Now set the rest of the valves in the normal fashion. And if like me you're anal retentive, you'll probably rewarrm the engine and check a couple more cylinders randomly (well if you're really like me, you'll check all of them to prove it works...). Once I'd done it a couple of times and became comfortable with the procedure, I stopped checking all the cylinders, but I'd still occasionally randomly check a couple of cylinders just because.
I always adjusted the valves on all my Y-blocks while running. Not really that hard; although in my early, racing years I was doing it every week so got pretty good at it. I do know it's much easier with the '57 and later rocker arms where you don't have to mess with a lock nut on the adjuster.
Adjusting valve lash running is a PITA, and a big mess. Even with a spare valve cover that I cut open, and left the exhaust side attached so it formed a shield to help catch oil flipped off the rockers. I gave up and adjusting valves while running decades ago, and I only adjust them cold, with engine off. It's far easier, more accurate, and zero mess.
Ford y-blocks are nothing like a SBC or BBC and not the slightest comparison can be made. I’ve run mine for different reasons than valve adjustment with both rocker covers off and only cardboard for a deflector off the exhaust manifolds.
I would set them all cold. Then get the engine good and hot and recheck. Cool the engine off and either add or subtract lash from your cold setting.
The Ford service manual list valve adjustment at 0.020 cold with a re-check with the engine hot and running. The spec does change to 0.019 hot. I have done both methods, but now I only do them cold. I also picked up a P&G valve gaper about 40 years ago. It makes valve adjustment simple. I really do not think that 0.001 or 0.002 either way makes any noticeable difference in performance or longevity. Maybe if you were trying to get the absolute max in a racing environment, but I don't think you could feel it in the seat of the pants.
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