Picked up a par of 15x6 Keystone slotted aluminum wheels. Having issues fitting them onto my lark. Can not get get the shank lugs to fit. Can get one, shank lugs drop into the wheels on the bench, but not on the car. Would lug size be the issue? Lark has 1/2" lugs, could these wheels have been meant for 7/16". Car bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5. Turns out the ford 8.8 I put is actually a little too wide as well, need way more backspacing than these wheels have, so lots of issues trying to install these. Anyone ever seen a slotted wheel like this in 15x6 with a 4" backspace? Or a 15x7 with 5" BS? I have no experience with these wheels so any input is very appreciated! Thanks!
Yep, the 'standard' shank size on these is the .687" mentioned above, that's true whether it's a 1/2" or 7/16" stud. And it does look like somebody 'home brewed' the slots. With that said, if it was a 4.5"-on-5 wheel originally you should be able to fit them, but if it was a 4.75"-on-5 wheel that may not be true. These type wheels are a PITA to mount, they can take some 'fiddling' to get all the lug bolts on. Leave ALL lugs loose until you've got all of them well-started, only then do you tighten them. Start with the least-modified hole when installing the lugs. You will need a wrench to start the lugs, once all are started they should turn in without 'forcing' them. But you generally can't get them in with just finger-force.
I generally turn the drum or axle so one stud is right on top, then thread in that nut. Sometimes you have to lift the wheel vertically but you should be able to get the other ones started that way. Unilugs without the recesses for insert washers are always hard to mount and I'm personally not fond of those.
Thanks all, this makes sense. I am thinking these are basically not usable at this point. Not sure they would be considered safe, without a more positive way to locate the wheel to the hubs? I guess I will add these to my lessons learned pile! Thanks!
As long as most of the slots aren't sloppy and you don't need to force any of the lugs on they should be fine. Do check them to see if they spin true through... I've always thought this was a bit sketchy way for multifit, but there's literally thousands of 'em in use with no issues so the method does work.
The only thing that would bother me using them, is if the “inner/smaller” BP was used, from the pics it doesn’t look like lug nut would seat properly. I’d think a shallow milling would fix that though. FWIW I didn’t know about oblonged washers, I put the lug nuts with shanks in them as they fit many years ago on a set I had. Nothing came loose, etc. But those you have should be touched up so a washer sits flat (unless it’s just the pic)
The standard 0.687" shank needs a 0.6875" hole to clear it. That's 11/16". These look like they were drilled with a 5/8" bit. I have created unilug wheels from single pattern wheels using a vertical mill, rotary table, 11/16 end mill, and 1" end mill. The results were indistinguishable from a factory job. A decent machine shop can make these right.
So I put it on an old studebaker brake drum to get the correct bolt pattern in there. Looks to me like these were 5 on 4.75 originally. No way to get the lugs started, but mopar used the 7/16 so maybe that is where they were used or this is a project that never got done. Thanks for all info, mystery solved!
I meant to say ibcan start one, but can't get any others to start evenly, too tight to the wheel. Thanks!
Those closeup pics really show that the holes are not a perfect oval, whoever drilled out the secondary pattern didn't drill it wide enough. Those could be fixed, but you'd need someone with a proper mill/table and the right tooling to cut them out to the correct size. They're not junk, but you can't use them on that bolt pattern with the current slotted holes.
Yep, agree completely. I don't know of a good machine shop in southern WI/ Northern IL, but will keep my eyes open. Off to storage for now! Thanks All, really appreciate all the insight!
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