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COE 51 Ford COE

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Flatrod17, Jun 6, 2022.

  1. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 698

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I bought a 51 Ford COE last year, it came with no ***le. I am all set to get a ***le and was wondering if there is any other vin numbers other then what is on the glove box door?
    Also is it better to take the front fenders off before lifting the cab off? I plan to put the cab on a 96 E350 ch***is. Any do's or don't?
     
  2. Homer41
    Joined: Nov 19, 2019
    Posts: 103

    Homer41

    I have not taken mine off the frame yet but I would take the front clip and the doors off first. This will make for the lightest lift. I was given a bit of advice from a frame changing kit guy, he said to make certain you measure the distance from the center of the front axle to the front of the door opening. Do not loose this measurement. This will help when positioning the cab on the new ch***is so you get the front wheel centered in the wheel opening even without the fender in place.

    Good to see another Alaskan here, I would like to see your project sometime. I plan on starting on my 41 chevy coe as soon as I get my 41 Plymouth completed, maybe next year. Dave
     
  3. Badmoonreizen
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 108

    Badmoonreizen
    Member
    from Howell, MI

    541AAD2A-5B00-4C1F-93D7-A7CE4549F92B.jpeg 8C69EDA5-2A67-41C5-B5CA-84EB98A5F785.jpeg Not sure what you are thinking, but the process is much more complicated than what you propose. the vin is stamped on the frame rails, toward the front. It is sometimes faint, so don’t use a grinder to find it, use 0000 steel wool. Once you have the vin exposed, how are you going to transfer that number to the new frame, which has its own number?
    Measurements are critical, as-is bracing the cab so it doesn’t twist or torque.
    Then you have to determine placement of your new drive train, motor, transmission, radiator and rear end.
    Are you making a flat bed, pickup, or dump truck? This all has to be laid out and planned, before you start tearing it apart.
    I put my 1956 Ford COE on a 2003 E-350 ch***is and put a custom pick up box on it.The frame had to be shortened, reworded and fish plated, fenders had to be sectioned as did the original bumpers.
    Think 10 times and cut once. Take a lot of pictures as you go for reference later. You won’t remember where things go.
     
  4. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,588

    verde742
    Member

    Yes the glove box door is the BEST vin number if the MAN WANTS TO SEE IT Ask me how I know ??
     
  5. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 698

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I have had the truck for about a year now, have done lots of thinking on it. I want to get a ***le before I put a lot of work into it. I will be getting a Bond ***le and DMV will have to verify the vin number. I am hoping they will except the glove box number and not make me try to find a frame number. My understanding it is about under the seat area on the frame, not a easy place with it all together!

    Badmoonriezen, It will be a pick up pretty much like your truck! I hope it will look as good! My E350 ch***is is 134 WB, what did you start with?

    Homer41, are you in Homer? I am in Anchorage, if you are up this way stop in!
     
  6. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,588

    verde742
    Member

    the glove box number worked for me
    and my body is on a 1972 International travel all frame, 2 wheel drive,
     
  7. Homer41
    Joined: Nov 19, 2019
    Posts: 103

    Homer41

    Yes, I live in Homer. When I checked with DMV it was my understanding that the vehicle had to be running and driving and get inspected by a repair station to get the ***le. I called a guy here in Homer who could do the inspection but I am NOWHERE near running or driving. Dave
     
  8. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    The VIN on my 1941 Ford was under the radiator on the forward most crossmember... Sounds like NH is easier than AK.. Here I just had to fill in the NH VIN verification form and have a cop come over to the house to verify the number. File that with NH along with some dollahs and a ***le app and done...
     
  9. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 698

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I have had 3 ***les done this way with a bond. The first years ago, had to have a Trooper come verify the vin. Car did not run, now they won't come to you anymore. Less then a year ago I did a 65 Mustang. I loaded up a dead very dissembled car and went to a UMV. It cost more there but no problems at all. I am hoping for the same with the truck. The Mustang had a stamped in number that he wanted to see, that's why I asked about a vin on the frame of the truck. I will know next week as I have a day lined up to haul it to them.
     
  10. Homer41
    Joined: Nov 19, 2019
    Posts: 103

    Homer41

    Sounds good! Best of luck! Dave
     
  11. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,926

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    My '51 Ford COE has the serial number tag on the firewall, not the glove box. On the pickups the frame number is over the front axle on the driver side. My COE did not come with it's original frame, so I'm not sure on those.
     
  12. Badmoonreizen
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 108

    Badmoonreizen
    Member
    from Howell, MI

    For some reason I didn't get notified that people were posting here until today. The vin should be on the frame rail by the front shock, but there are always exceptions.
    I think my E-350 wheelbase was 140", but I can't remember for certain, but it had to be shortened to 132'".
    Regards, Mark
     
  13. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,588

    verde742
    Member

    the vin is on a tag on glove box, On my last 6 COE s '48-50
    I don't know about frame numbers.
     
  14. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 698

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I am Happy!! I got my ***le at UMV today! Small hicup though. To be clear this would be the vin,
    C5R1LB-2**** right? That was not in the Alaska system, but 14000158903500 is. Well that works out to be 14000GVW 158WB 90HP at 3500. When I pointed that out on the glove box tag, they then went with the C5R1LB number.
    So now I just have to marry these two!! the 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2022
    RMR&C and lexcoe like this.
  15. Metal Mover
    Joined: Aug 9, 2011
    Posts: 95

    Metal Mover
    Member
    from Jamul CA

    My 48 sits on a 92 E 350 ch***is, the entire front end including steering is stock, a Borgeson coupler to an Ididit column. The engine had to be centered in the frame (on my frame it was originally offset to the right) and raised up about 1 1/2" to clear the steering arm. I also used E 150 coils, same dimensions, rides great. I retained the 351 Windsor, C6 and added a Gear Vendor OD.
    Just takes time
     
  16. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 698

    Flatrod17
    Member

    Thanks for the info! I noticed the engine is offset on mine and had thought that might help with foot space for the driver. Why did you center it? Mine will keep the 351 Windsor but I have a E40D Trans I think, I know it's not a C6. I have the cab off the truck frame and on a cart, working on removing the van body now.
     
  17. Metal Mover
    Joined: Aug 9, 2011
    Posts: 95

    Metal Mover
    Member
    from Jamul CA

    I centered it to get into the existing floor opening and remember the van body extends out beyond the frame rails and the COE cab doesn't. I ***ume that's why Ford offset the engine, because they could. The tape measure is now your new best friend. Keep on keepin' on.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022

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