Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

I bought your fan relay harness and a Hayden thermostat switch.. The Hayden diagram doesn't address using a relay but shows the thermostat wired in series between the ignition switch and fan positive. How would I wire the thermostat switch in with your harness? In series coming off 85?

 

That's how I would do it, no reason to run the fan load through the Hayden switch when using it to control the relay will serve the same purpose.

 

I have to ask, just because it's how I am...but can you tell me the Hayden part number you bought? I can't imagine that it's a normal 2 post sender and they want to pull all the fan load through the sender and ignition switch, but I could be wrong, it's happened once before I'm wondering if it's more of a module and you're just connecting trigger wires. Normally you'd wire in a relay and the sender would operate the ground side of the relay (I always use 85, but you'll see 85 and 86 interchanged for ground and either is fine). I'll definitely help out, but I need a little more info if you've got it.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

I found this which sounds like what you've got. I'm guessing your fan switch has the capillary tube type setup that goes through the radiator or somewhere to sense the temperature.

It looks to me that that switch is just sending power through when it comes up to temp (depending on where you set the rheostat knob), but I think what I would do is: Wire our relay kit (red battery wire to the battery or starter solenoid, wire our gray fan wire from the relay to the hot side of the fan, ground the black wire on the relay. Then connect your 12v keyed hot to the hayden switch...connect our purple relay trigger wire to the other side of the switch (where they say fan positive).

What this will do is: Your relay from us will be powered from the battery and grounded. When your temp switch comes on it will send power through the temp switch through our relay trigger wire and turn on the relay...then the relay will send battery power out to the fan. So your hayden switch is only triggering the relay and you're not drawing all those extra amps through the ignition switch and the hayden switch. Just my .02 though. Someone else might have a better way.
Thanks again,
Jeremy

 

Hayden #3653.

 

Yeah, that image agrees with the Hayden #3653 diagram. Thanks for the help.

 

No problem, hope that works for you. I think it will work out, and be safer in the long run by just using it to trigger the relay, and we've got the 30 amp circuit breaker in there too.

 

It worked like a charm. Thanks again!

 

I have a fuel pump question. My electric fuel pump is turning off when the car is cranking therefore not starting. I’m using the purple relay switch wire to an on/off toggle switch then the yellow window power wire to the relay. I’m going to try and show a pic here. Is there a different wire I should be using in either place of the purple or orange?

 

Why is the toggle switch powered by the ignition switch?

 

Sounds like you have a 14 circuit, probably from Southern Rods...but if I'm wrong let me know which harness you have. In the 14 circuit harness the purple relay trigger comes off the accessory bus bar and most ignition switches drop off power to the accessory circuit when cranking. The wire is more meant for a fan relay and wouldn't matter if it went dead. If you want to use the purple relay trigger through the toggle switch as an override you could cut it and feed the toggle directly off the ignition switch run terminal. It wouldn't need to even be fused since it's just a trigger wire and only pulling about a 1/4 amp or so.

You could also use the power window wire to feed 30 and 86 on the relay, keep 87 as power out to the pump...and use the toggle switch to switch the ground to 85 (ground in and ground out of the toggle switch) even still using the purple relay trigger as just a piece of wire to reach from the switch to the relay, just ground the other side of the switch instead of a hot.

Let me know if you need any help with it.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

I'm guessing it's a 14 circuit kit and really the accessory side of the ignition switch feeds the row of fuses that has the relay trigger on it, and the switch is dropping off power when cranking. I was thinking it might be a 21 circuit kit, but the 21 has a fuel pump wire in it (hot in run and start).

 

I've got a 9+3 fuse panel GM based wiring, I tore the car apart a few years back, labeled most of the wires but I'm at a loss on the alternator.
I've got a late style alternator used the jumper from the one spade back to charging post, white exciter wire plugged into the other spade.
Does anything else go to the charging post ?
I have a wire coming off of my starter bundle with a large eyelet that fits the power stud on starter that wire has a smaller eyelet on the other end of it that looks like it might fit that charging post.

 

@swade41 , see if this helps:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-alternator-conversion.1250312/#post-14307695

Or this:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/alternator-wiring-help.1250962/

 

According to the second thread a wire would go to battery, since my battery is in the trunk I must've came off the starter.

 

You probably used the starter as a junction point. The 10si alternator you have is the way to go, just use a charge light (have them on every car that didn't have a warning light).

Charge light on my panel:

 

I got a hold of them and they confirmed to wire from starter to alternator, funny I had brought all the wiring inside the car while I made a new firewall, that wire was labeled battery on the alternator end.
I never had an idiot light on this car, it all worked, most of my labeling has soaked into the tape and is not legible any longer, so it's kind of like starting over lol

Edit : of course today (the next day) I find the left over wire and instructions

 

Well..... I have to say, I bought the 9+3 kit from Rebel for my RPU. Wiring is not my favorite past-time, but, from tearing into the packaging on Friday night, to hearing (or better yet, the neighbors hearing) the engine come to life Sunday morning was not a very daunting task. Everything went smoothly, headlight to taillight. My only snag was the power source for the voltage regulator (ford motor/charging circuit). Thanks for the product, & even though i didn't have to use it, the support team either online, phone, or even here on the H.A.M.B

 

Thanks for the support! If anyone ever needs any tech help, send me an email at rebel43jb@comcast.net or call me at the shop 423-263-5399.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

You are a good man Jeremy, standing behind your product. When I re-wire my drag coupe probably this winter, I will be calling you. Thanks for all you do here on the HAMB.

 

My Rebel harness has performed flawlessly in my coupe. I'll definitely use them again for my Falcon build.

 

I know who to talk to when I wire my Ford

 

Support folks with great products/service as soon as you can afford. As a small business guy, I can tell you it helps - especially these days.

 

Thanks, I appreciate it. Let me know if there's anything I can do for you.

 

A lot of our business is word of mouth. I also put some tech on our facebook and instagram pages to help people out. A lot of customers have my personal cell phone number. I have people saved as 51 Ford and 55 Chevy. These bigger companies can just put an ad in a magazine (which last time we checked is like 5k for a half page in one issue) and then they leave you hanging after the sale is over. These days you can basically buy the same product from multiple vendors at many different price points and never leave the house, but what matters to me is getting it from someone that will take care of me if I need help with it. I could get the best deal on the nicest product but it doesn't mean much if I can't use it.

 

Thanks again. I will be contacting you this winter to re-wire my Drag Coupe. I will need your expertise.

 

Jeremy has been a great help, super friendly and easy to take the time to understand your needs, now I just need time to complete my harness, Thanks Again Jeremy!!

 

No problem at all! Hope all is going well.

 

Jeremy,
I have a 56 F100 with the following:
Pertronix ignition system
A GM 1 wire alternator
A 1964 Mercury steering column & Wheel (wired like a GM column)
A Volvo electric power steering pump
A two speed electric fan from a Taurus
A GMC van 22 Gallon tank and sending unit with ohm converter to Ford
Electric Fuel pump
Power Windows
Power Door locks
A Vintage Air air conditioner
A third tail light
No radio, thinking USB speaker(s)& BLUETOOTH from my phone.
And a flip down fuse box from a Ford (Don't remember the model)

What kit would you recommend I Install?

 

Late to the party, as usual, but better late than never.
Wish I had seen it several years ago. Not to mechanically inclined, especially wiring. At 78 years old, not to keen in tackling new project on my old 48 DeSoto HotRod, but I gonna tackle replacing my spaghetti wiring with a Rebel Harness. I think I can, I think I can, especially with all the Positive post I have read about the Support Team.
One question, is the 9+3 enough for basic Hot Rod. No 'lectric doors, windows, seats, etc
., but do have electric fan, AC, and fuel pump.