Alright, I'm in mock up stage, ignore no jam nuts and what not. When I acquired this 40 chevy pickup it had a janky straight axle with true suicide front with the steering rod out front. I'm wondering if i slice a angle off front of frame and could I put the heims on underside of steering arms? I don't want to go in front of axle, Ackerman would be jacked. Waiting on wheels to get weight of jack stands and see where she wants to sit.
It's hard to translate with junk phone pictures vs the eyeball in person. Frame is on stands, I've got about 1/8 inch between front of frame and steer rod. Is it I'll advised to heat and bend my steering arms to gain the clearance? I don't see any other way other than frame modifications or extending spring perch forward. Thank for the replies guys.
Josh, this may help: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ms-for-the-second-time.1046570/#post-11863915 Ignore the "2nd time" part in your case. Mike
I maybe use the wrong terminology, which one is sketchy, it is just mocked up and that's why I'm asking. The rod from steering box can be changed, that's what was on it. The rest is all new front end parts.
About as square away looking down it I can get. With weight off jack stands that dang rod is too close.
What type of steering box are you using, a photo that shows how the box is mounted in relation to the steering hoop attached to the drivers side spindle. HRP
From what I can see: First, if the rest of the frame looks like the front, I'd seriously consider building a new one. Second, you can't use hairpins with a tube axle. The axle can go up and down, but you can't have twist (suspension compliance) without bending parts that will eventually fail, like hairpins, batwings and frame mounting brackets. If you're going to use a tube axle you need to have it set up for four-links to be safe. You should be using grade 8 hardware on all suspension components, and if you use nylocks you need to have at least three threads showing past the end of the nut, like the front spring shackle mount that is bolted to your batwing. Best of luck with your project.
I'm not a pro hotrod builder, but I know I need to get all the right hardware fasteners, like I said mocking up front. No idea on steering box but I took it apart and cleaned and regressed and tightened up slop.
Steering arms on spindle,looks like the aftermarket things?< Many of those are designed and made=with zero*{None} Ackerman/so they say you can use them front or back<They don't work well ether way,do too wrong Ackerman in both ways /check them for Ackerman. Rod ends can go top or bottom,as long as tierod clearrs bones n frame.
Sounds like you're referring to the tierod, and not the steering arm? Or am I misunderstanding your statement? The kinda rusty rod coming off the steering box is the pitman arm. The gold flatbar arms are the steering arms, and of course the rod that ties the two steering arms together is the tierod. Edit-I missed the last picture showing the arm and proximity to the frame rail. I'd unbolt it from the spindle, and simply cut some off the end closest to the frame. Then weld a plate over the area, and smooth it of to repaint.
Good advice, but probably will be ignored just as it was in the OP's previous thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/setting-caster-radius-rods.1266200/#post-14508579
Tie rod hitting front of frame bad, like @dana barlow said, find better steering arms. As for the tube axle and hairpins? A million T buckets can't be wrong. This is not rocket surgury
Each of the million T buckets doesn't weigh as much as a '40 Chevy full bodied pickup........ Hairpins and a tube axle may very well survive, but it certainly raises the chances of it failing, and that usually doesn't end well.
From what I see here we are looking at more of a fenderless rat rod/bobber abomination with the weight bias similar to a T bucket. Just trying to help the dude out.
All good, it's just discussion, but it doesn't get past the fact that a tube axle with hairpins just can't physically work without placing substantial extra stresses on mounting brackets. I don't get why you would want to do that....... but that's just me. Using hairpins with an I beam axle is ok. They can work together to control roll, but make sure the mounts are up to it. As for T buckets, are you ***uming they have any actual usable movement in the front suspension? Most have 3/16th's of 5/8th's of f*#k all.
I don't know if I need to **** or go blind now. Thanks for all the advice y'all, I'm not ignoring anything anyone says, but I'm not starting over. I will test and adapt and this truck will drive and handle how I make it. Gonna have a beer!
I'm not gonna throw this pickup on a touring track or offroad and articulate the front. I have a I beam straight axle from the early 40's on the garage floor in s**** pile. I can guarantee you you aren't going to twist or have much more "give" in that old metal, it is ridgid.
Those probably would work tman, thanks. I got aftermarket speedway brackets that don't accept tie rod ends, but I'm not beyond changing those. Thanks for all the help. I'm learning a lot
You should do a bit of research and reading on tube vs beam axles. Interesting stuff, and lots to learn. It's all been covered on the HAMB many times. A search will give you lots of good info.
The tie rod is the farthest back during straight ahead, right? If it clears then, it should clear on a turn. Try it and see. Maybe you can bend the arms down a little, effectively shortening them and getting more clearance from the crossmember at the same time. To bend those flat steel arms (hokey junk that really shouldn't be used on a hot rod, but you did say you were going to use all the parts you already had) I'd suggest a big press brake instead of heat.
The Jalopy Journal
