I put a non-world class t5 behind my flatmotor years ago. Was working super, but this weekend it started popping out of 1st gear when I get on it from a dead stop. It doesnt pop out at first, but rather just about the time to shift. Slow take off it works fine, but if you back off on throttle it pops out then too. Info I'm reading says a 1st gear syncro bad. But I am thinking possiblly a bent shift fork, or even a bad socket for the shifter ball?? I made my own mounts for it, and regretably didn't think to plan ahead for dropping it out the bottom of frame, but the entire topside is open if I take wooden floor boards out. I'm thinking of doing that, slide tailshaft housing back enough to open up the top to see fork condition. I figure can't be out much to look in. Probably have to lift body if it needs to come out. So, syncro or fork?? ( BTW loose bolts in rear suspension due to it taken during mock-up)
syncros only work while changing gears. you probably have a worn shift ring and or the spline teeth on the end of the gear (the ring slides over them when shifting).
Maybe it's time for a make-over: While the transmission is out I'd definitely upgrade to a dual-reservoir brake master cylinder and re-do those brake lines. Best of luck with your project.
in 56 years of driving my 40 Ford with a single master cylinder with only 1 time a leaky cylinder, old school works for me.
thats what I was thinking. Maybe i bent it shifting too hard.... a guy forgets that they aren't Hurst levers with the stops to prevent bending forks.
I do have a spare tranny on the shelf, just in case. And a neighbor has at least 6 or 7 S-10s on the "rock pile" area of his farm. I suppose at 75 its just natural to look for the easist way to correcr it. Thanks guys!
Modify your crossmember. Whether you remove the engine or remove the body, you don't want to be in that position again sometime in the future.......especially if you fix something and it still pops out of gear. Its rediculous to build a car and not allow for transmission removal. It's just plain stupid to do it a second time. Don't mean to insult you, so hope you take it as a well intended suggestion.
It could be the syncros. The original non-Super T10s were notorious for popping out of gear once the syncros became worn, BW corrected it by modifying the synchro teeth. And the more it does it, the worse it would get. But a bent shifter fork preventing full engagement when shifting can also cause the same issue AND cause damage to the syncros when it does pop out of gear, so it would pay to look over both while you have it apart.
I did something similar when swapping a 5.3/4L60E into my OT other project. Not quite as bad, but trans support rests on top of angle brackets welded to the frame. I just finished watching a few YT vids by Eric the Car guy featuring Paul Cangialosi from GearBoxVideo rebuilding a T5. Lots and lots of great tips. They were rebuilding Eric’s T5 and Eric added a Summit shifter fork base with stops to prevent buggering up the synchros and forks when banging through the gears. Link to the vid (Part 1). Good luck!
Please don’t take this wrong,,,,,,but why would anyone build a car where it cannot be serviced ? Clutch,,, throwout bearing ,,,,transmission problems,,,,,,they always happen eventually . Sorry man,,,,,,I guess pull the engine ? Tommy
Ever take the trans out of a Corvette in the on-topic years? Crossmember is non-removable thru '67. That sucks to pull.
On my car, the factory transmission crossmember is also the mounting point for the wishbone. And to top it all off, the frame is welded together, and welded to the body from the factory. So, it's not always that simple. The original transmission could have probably been pulled up through the tunnel, after you pulled the rear end. It would take a huge hole to do that with my AOD. Even the Turbo 350 that was in it before would have required a large hole to come out the top. No aftermarket support for a bolt in crossmember, either, but I guess a good fabricator could make one. So, yes, pull the engine/transmission is the only way without completely reworking the frame.
Bamamav , You’re right,,,,the factory did it that way . However,,,,,,,his pics are from his build,,,,,,,we’re supposed to correct the early issues from the manufacturer. From what I can see,,,,,,,that transmission was placed in there at a later date,,,,LoL. It still looks like a good build though,,,,,,good work . Tommy
Don’t know anything about transmission internals, but I’d take a saws-all to the center of that transmission crossmember before going to the trouble of lifting the body. While the tranny is out weld in some flanges to bolt the center of the crossmember back in. Presto, trans fixed, and the car is now serviceable in the future.
Exactly. It has been a long time since I have pointed out that you can indeed play Russian Roulette every single day of your life, and still die of old age. That does not mean that Russian Roulette is safe. It means that you are lucky. I do not consider luck a viable survival strategy.
well, I guess my thoughts at the time were that the S-10 tranny (and rear end) were a good 50 horsepower greater then the flatty so it would be iron clad. Actually thinking I should make a removeable upper part for the crossmember to replace integrity Ford had. I have pulled engine/trans for a bad clutch (shop removed 3 springs from Speedy Bills clutch for lighter pressure and didn't get spring levels correct). My thoughts posting were about the forks bending. Thanks to all.
BTW the S-10 rearend fits terrific. With old wheel adapters it is stock 32 Ford tread width. Everyone on this forum said it wouldn't fit with a buggy spring. Simply a 3/4" cut off each end and reroll eyes. Picture is before spring work being done (& brakes installed)
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