Technical Losing Power From "On" To "Start" - Help

Hey folks, I've got a '53 Chevy with a 350/350 and a few other mods. Usually takes a couple tries to get her running smoothly (work in progress), and after the first or second attempt today this started happening....I turn the key to the on position and get power to everything, no problem. When I go to start, everything dies, no power to anything. And then everything powers back up when I move the key back to the on position.

I checked connections from battery to starter/solenoid, grounds, everything is tight. I've got a few more ideas of things to troubleshoot, but wanted to get this posted so I can get it sorted out asap

 

I'd be suspecting the ignition switch, probably, although a bad starter can seemingly **** all of the power giving symptoms you describe.

Chris

 

You have an ignition switch that is for use with a ballast regulator circuit. You should have an unused power terminal. Using one of the piggyback spade connectors, make a jumper from the terminal you are using to the other unused terminal and all should be good to go.

 

Sounds like a loose connection or low battery voltage to me for sure.

 

Me too.

Turn the headlights on, try the starter. If lights go out, that confirms a bad ground or + connection somewhere. Or just a dead battery.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. As far as the battery goes, I had it on the charger last week and voltage is maintaining mid-12's. Lights stay on when starting and voltage does not drop. Terminals and cables are clean

 

I had a similar situation. Cleaned the cables, traded batteries, fully charged, jumper cables...turned
out to be the bolt that I had for the strap to the frame was loose just enough to create havoc. 1/8 turn
and never had another issue. Let us know what you find out...

 

Need more info about your ignition switch because it's common for accessory circuit at switch to turn off. Lets start with is it a stock unit or a universal. For now as mentioned already, do you understand how a ballast resistor by p*** works? By the way, no ballast by p*** used in 53 from the factory 6 volt cars.

 

Since you gave very limited info, I ***umed you have an HEI or other modern ignition that doesn't require a ballast resistor and a 53 ignition switch. If that is the case, my answer is correct.

 

Thinking you may have a wire incorrect on the switch.

 

Part of the problem is that many of the parts on the car are TBD as it was modified by multiple owners over the last 30-40 years...its been quite a challenge figuring it all out. Pretty sure the column/ignition is early '80s GM, possibly out of a Camero as it has some other Camero parts on it. Has HEI. Was on the road the last couple months, but then this happened

I'm not familiar with a ballast resistor byp***, will look into it

 

No need for ballast resistors on HEI

 

A very good candidate for voltage drop testing. I'd like to know what the voltage is at the starter + terminal when you turn the ignition switch to start. Also what the voltage is on the case of the starter with the key in start. However, you might just want to have someone whack the starter with a hammer at the brush end while holding the key in the start position. Old starters with worn brushes will do this.

 

Sounds like a good candidate for a new ignition module.

 

Not in a position to post pics at the moment of your switch. They do have two bulk connections and both have several terminals. You’ll need to indemnify them and what each one does.

 

Still no idea what a Camero is.

 

I think it's latin for "donor car".

 

Here you go. You'll note that this type of switch is split up into what amounts to two switch's in one. This was done so ignition system aka distributor would not become affected by other circuits drawing power away from it. That's the reason for more than just one main power source aka Battery.



Starting @ Ignition (pink) then moving clockwise.

Ignition (pink) - Distributor
Battery (red) - Hot positive from the battery
Solenoid (purple) S terminal at the starter
Ignition (orange) To fuse box for anything that requires power from an IGN power source. This allows distributor to not be affected like past/older ignition switches did.
Accessory (brown) To fuse box for radio, heater, wiper and what ever else does not need power when starting the engine.
Battery (red) Another hot positive from the battery
Ground 2 (tan) Key buzzer (if memory is correct)
Ground (dark green) Temp idiot light

 

Maybe it's just me, but it sounds like you have a no start condition.

How the HEI Electronic Ignition Distributor Works - YouTube

 

Thanks for the replies, lots of directions to explore

 

Since it was working and now it is not I am going with the bad ignition switch crowd. I just replaced one in my OT dune buggy that was doing the same thing.

 

^^^^^ Another issue with column switches is sometimes they slide out of position (lots of spring force when apply start position can cause them to slide out of position with time and creates a dead zone when slide contact is between point of making contact). Check that fasteners are tight because the mounting holes are slotted so switch can be adjusted into ideal position so that start position works best.

 

Not really. But if that's the way you want to play it...I'm saying good luck. By your account it had been running and now it's not. While unclear if it cranks and doesn't fire, or doesn't crank or fire, something needs to be checked out further. This link below might help.

Mr48Chev, post #15+

Technical - HEI No Spark | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

I mean, Id rather not "play it" any other way than the correct one. There have been more than a couple relevant replies of places to start troubleshooting, though the ignition switch seems to be the logical place to start and I'll be taking a look at it today.

The engine does not crank - the car goes dead while switching from ON to START, and then gets power back when returned to ON

 

Do you know if there is a safety neutral in play here. We have no way of knowing if this a column shift or floor shifted 53 Chevy at present time.

 

Its floor shifted, dont know if theres a safety neutral at play - doesnt crank in P or N.

 

I've supplied all that I can as far as things to look for while testing. See if the purple wire from the ignition switch goes to a neutral switch at the shifter (if one is there?) or direct to starter. Good luck.

 

Is there voltage at the starter when key is turned to “start”. Will take as been mentioned, extended leads and clips if by yourself.
If say no voltage at the starter, is there voltage out of the switch?

 

Have you taken the distributer cap off at all? If it's been a while, the underside of the cap can carbon track up and dead short causing just that problem. I'll go one better, you do that, s****e the terminals, wipe the carbon, and re***emble it. It it doesn't start after that I'll give up and admit defeat.

 

If I understand the issue (could be I’m incorrect) the engine doesn’t turn/spin over.