Guys - My Studebaker's fuel issue is making me crazy. I have followed the suggestions of the good people at Daytona Parts, who sold me my UN2 carb, which has included removing the mechanical pump for a good (Walbro) electric, which I have mounted back by the tank...a phenolic spacer under the carb...a water/fuel separator...making sure the fuel lines are not near heat (as good as you can under the hood) and yet I'm still having a terrible time restarting hot when she sits for around 1/2 an hour. Their next suggestion is to replace my old (1958) steel fuel line, as there could be air getting in. Okay, I will do that 'cause it's not expensive - if it turns out not to be the issue. I replaced the old radiator when I bought the car some time ago with an aluminum Champion model but I could add a fan for additional cooling, if you think that might help. Thanks for any suggestions! Oh, I added some Marvel Mystery Oil to my full tank, hoping it might affect the boiling point of the ****py gas.
I run dual Carter W-1's on 250 Chevy, it won't start after 30 minutes unless I give it just a little fuel and hold the throttles open slightly. Not sure its heat related or just fuel that collects in the intake like all inline engines do. If I try earlier or later, it fires right up with no input from the throttles. 20 to 30 minutes is the worst.
It would appear that with your filter ***embly you could run a fuel line back to the tank, and send excess fuel back to the tank, which will help reduce the temp of the fuel, keeping it cooler. I don't know that adding an additional fan would accomplish anything to help with heat soak.
What are you using for an ignition system. If it's not electronic, your fuel problem could be a bad ignition module.
Did the carb manufacturer tell you the best PSI of the fuel? I see you have a pressure gauge, but do you have a regulator too? I'm not familiar with those carbs, but is there some adjustments to floats that might be required? Did your car overheat with the old radiator? Why did you replace it? Do you use ethanol fuel? Around here we can still buy gas with no ethanol in it. I'd recommend trying that if you can.
I’ve got to agree with joe H. The worse starting is after a hot run and sitting for a few minutes. I just hit the starter and slowly push down the accelerator pedal until she fires. Never had and issue
You guys are the best. Thanks so much! I use a Pertronix ignitor in the distributor and yeah, 10% ethanol from costco. She didn't overheat with the old radiator but it was in bad shape and I didn't want to break down away from home. The fuel pressure gauge only reads about 2 to 3 lbs while working, which, I think is about right for this simple little carb. The tech guy at Daytona Parts thought the engine might be running too hot - thus the fuel perking - but the new radiator is more than adequate for this 185 c.i. flathead. I will give her a little throttle when cranking and just like Joe said, around 30 minutes is the dead zone!
Awright.... who let the guy from EYEOHWAY in the state????? just kidding, we welcome anyone's money in this state! Western Washington doesn't usually get overly hot, so.... What temp is it running now? Is that comparable to what it was before the new radiator? Is the thermostat working correctly? What type of fan do you currently have? Fan Shroud? Heat could be pushing fuel down the throat and flooding it, or it could be percolating out, leaving a partially empty bowl. Try a tank of non-ethanol fuel. It helps with hot starts in my AD pickup with a 327 & Edelbrock 4 barrel. Or...... just cruise it along the river or ocean of your choice and enjoy the cool breeze. Good luck, I know this situation can be frustrating....
Air fuel and spark. How hard can it be depends on what you're willing to test and discover. I'm sure off the ***embly line it didn't need extras to help it run, but it needs them now? I don't think so. But seeing one picture that show's very little, we are left to guess what it's all about and try to rationalize an answer to what the problem could be. I think it's a couple things, carb adjustment and ignition timing. I ruled out the air because I could make out what appears to be a new air filter.
Western WA, 55 bird, same problem. Try opening the hood to let the heat out. If it starts right up you know it’s heat soak. Actually on mine, if I open the hood in the garage when I get home, it’s easier to start even cold the next morning. ****py fuel, high under hood temps, just a bad combo. If you’re getting vapor lock or flooding while driving, that’s a different but related issue.
Take an Aerosol can of engine start with you, and see if it actually is a fuel problem. Have you checked the pick up inside the tank? What Walbro pump do you have? FRB-series? they are usually pretty good? [the best] Also when you try this next time, undo the fuel cap while parked [or make sure the tank is vented correctly] If there is a drainback or vapor lock problem the electric pump will pound-away until the float bowl is full. Then it will slow down.
I'd definitely look at getting a return to tank setup from a regulator, keep a nice cool supply of fuel up front
It seems like the first thing to do in a no start situation would be to look down the throat of the carb and verify you have fuel when you work the throttle. And verify you have spark at the plugs.
If this is in fact a flooding condition you're fighting, make sure that the choke unloader is properly adjusted on the carb. This way when you hold the throttle wide open to try restarting it will also ensure that the choke valve is held at least partially open to prevent additional flooding.
Does that engine have a heat riser valve in the exhaust? If so, have you checked if it is working? If they are stuck or gutted but not blocked off they can be pumping hot exhaust up to the intake.
Agreed! If only the gas today was formulated for carbs, which it is not. And the gas is not bad, just made to work under pressure instead of atmospheric. IMO. Ben
I had this issue with my car when I got it and my dad told me to switch to unethanol fuel. To me that seemed silly, but sonova***** if it didn't work. As long as I run that fuel, it's good to go. If I run ethanol fuel, I have to floor the gas pedal so it'll fire. Then it runs fine.
What does the fuel pressure gage show just as you try to hot start it? Full pressure to the carb before cranking suggests too rich flooding from fuel percolation.
Get one of those handheld temperature readers and record the carb temp immediately on shutdown (on a hot day). Then close the hood right away and 20 to 30 minutes later open the hood and check the carb temp again to see if it's hotter, the same, or lower...... and how much. This is to test if the fuel bowl in the carb is cooking out the reserve fuel or not. A fix for that may be switching the fuel pump on for a few seconds before cranking the starter, etc. The temp of your carb is going to be the temp of your fuel. How hot the carb is more important than how hot the day. An alternative check is to remove the air cleaner at that 20/30 minute mark and crack the throttle open with your hand while checking to see if the accelerator pump squirts any fuel. To check the opposite, if fuel is puddling in the intake, you could pull a spark plug, after 30-ish seconds of starter cranking but no-start, to see if it's wet. (This can also point to a no-spark issue.) As has been mentioned, if fuel has puddled in the intake, you are "flooded" and holding the throttle open while cranking, with your foot on the pedal or with your hand at the carb, keeping the accelerator pump from adding any more, should dry out any wet plug/flooding situation. I tend to suspect the 'dry fuel bowl', though, because of the mentions of "hot day". Good luck.... I hope you get a quick, easy fix.
Thank you, guys! The choke is manual, BTW, and she fires up fine at first. I don't mess with the choke, except to open it once warming up. I only use the choke on cold starts then leave it open the rest of the day. I bought a "fast return line" plug (Fast 307031) to install in the tank for cooler fuel and will use one of the "out" taps on the water/fuel filter for the return line.
I have been finding out around here is California that the fuel vaporizes very easily. When parked and warm the carb gets ultra hot, the fuel in the bowl vaporizes and the stock vents cant let enough pressure out and thus pressurize the float bowl. When the bowl is under pressure it will p*** gas through the carb and drip raw fuel in your engine flooding it. I have been drilling extra vent holes in 94s and 97s in places that will be less likely to spill fuel out or be in the path of the fan blowing dust on the carb. It seems to fix the problem as My customers never call back for the same issue. Another time I had a problem very similar to the one i just described but I could tell the pressure pushing the gas through was way higher. Had cube type electric pump and aluminum gas tank. What ended up happening was the tank was getting hot and while running it wasn't a big deal but when shut off the tank would become pressurized and pushed fuel big time. The tank had a check valve in the cap (one of those red lever aircraft type caps) and would let air in but not out. I took the cap apart and removed the check valve and problem solved!
1958, when I bought my '36 Five window coupe from friend Billy Mendoza...I laughingly referred to the wooden clothespins on the hard fuel line from fuel pump to Stromberg 94 carb. He said the original owner (elderly gent) put those on there to prevent... VAPOR LOCK! I'd heard about this before, so when I got the coupe home, removed the clothespins, threw 'em in the garbage. Next day, the danged thing wouldn't start after parking it out front of the post office! After trying a few things, I finally bought a can of Berryman's B12 Chemtool, poured some down the carb and she lit right off! Took it home and checked fuel pressure, then rebuilt the 94 carb. No more problems, but just for 'spite', I hung 5 of my Grandma's wood clothespins back on the fuel line. Great conversation piece...Also got the 'nod' from some of the retired fellas that hung out in front of the bank! True story.
Ben I was mostly giving you a hard time. I understand both but for some reason can’t make either one work right haha
Putting enough clothespins on the fuel line would be very much akin to wrapping it with insulation, wouldn't it? Don't poo-poo some of those old "tricks", there is actually a bit of science behind some of them. FYI, I don't use clothespins on any fuel lines, but I live in Kansas where we don't get any hot weather.
<< I have been drilling extra vent holes in 94s and 97s in places that will be less likely to spill fuel out or be in the path of the fan>> FiveohNick2932, I'm dense...what are 94s and 97s? Carbs? I think I might try a 1/8" hole in my tank cap for starters. Thanks again, all!
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