I have read a lot of conflicting info about the Ford steering boxes, but thought this group might have some clarifying info. My 55 Crown has a really worn steering sector and it is probably past time to correct that. It has what I believe to be the original factory PS. In addition the PO installed 351C is very close to the steering box (which is partly why I don't want to just rebuild the 55 gear - plus the 3 speed C6 gear selection is not very consistent hooked up to the original 55 two speed automatic column). Don't want to install R&P in it and want to retain at least vaguely original appearance of the steering column inside the car, though lowering the upper end of the column or shortening it slightly would be a positive thing given the big ol' steering wheel it has. Also do not want a floor shifter. Are the Ford power and manual steering gears of differing ratios within any given year? I have several 1958 steering gears, both from manual and PS gear cars. Would those entire columns with column mounted 1958 automatic shifters fit in a 55? Or are they quite a bit different from the 55 dimensions? Would a 1961 Galaxie steering box bolt in to the frame and the 61 pitman arm mate up to the 55 center link? Does it matter if the steering box is from a manual or PS equipped donor? I am aware that using a 61 steering gear would require modifying the lower end of the 55 column for a bearing and rag joint fitting. Alternatively, I happen to have a 1963 Galaxie CM column that would probably mate up to the 61 steering gear and give me a better gear selection experience, but not sure about whether the 55 steering wheel would fit the 63 column and the 63 steering wheel though nice, would look out of place I think. Any thoughts?
This is a question I have asked myself many times over the last 50 years. On F100's, they used a worm and sector box up until 1963 when they went to recirculating ball type that reduced much of the friction. You can swap the 63/64 box for a 59 box and get an improvement in steering on F100's , I have done this. I know the cars did the same thing in about 1959 and up steering gears but I have never looked into doing the swap on my 55. Everyone I have talked to that have done the rack and pinion swaps seem unhappy with the turning radius afterwards. On the steering ratio question I know Mustang/Falcon steering gear ratios were faster (fewer turns lock to lock) on power steering cars but my 55 service manual doesn't seem to mention two ratios for our cars. I have talked to many people that have converted to the Borgson steering gear (I have one but have not installed it yet) and like the way it drives but seems like the frame needs to be modified and column shift is a pain with the modified steering column. I also don't think this would clear your 351 any better, might be worse! There was/is a company called rare parts that makes steering components for all cl***ic cars, they are the ones that told me about the F100 gearbox swap. Possible source for information? Please keep us all posted! Thanks! Mark EDIT: I have put a 63 Galaxie XL steering wheel on a 55 column way back in the past, it will bolt on but I don't remember much else.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the switch to recirculating ball type was 1958 for the cars. Have searched high and low but cannot find anything anywhere about using 58-64 steering gears in 54-56 cars. And I think I just found out why... The mounting holes thru frame are 3/4" farther apart on the 58-64 steering gears than 54-56. Roughly measured both 56 and a 58 sectors just now. Profile and dimensions seem otherwise quite similar, except for much more clearance on the engine side. Pitman arm profile also looks compatible... So, I am contemplating the probably contentious relocation of 2 of the 3 holes, weld in frame reinforcements on both ends made from a suitable size pipe and weld up the 2 original holes. Then use a 61 PS gear with the 63 Galaxie 3 speed CM column positioned a tad lower, with the 55 stock steering wheel on it. It is so nice I am reluctant to replace that, despite its huge diameter. Not familiar with the Borgeson unit, but I think I did read somewhere else this morning that it is indeed larger, so would probably not help manifold clearance. Made my day better already to learn the 55 wheel is likely to bolt on the 63 column though. Thanks! Well, if you bolted a 63 Galaxie steering wheel on a 55 column that would seem to indicate the reverse is possible (55 wheel on 63 column..)
One other thing I have been told is that the 56 and up column is shorter than the 55 due to the "safety dish" steering wheel so be careful the 55 wheel does not end up too close to the shifter handle or the dash. Mark
Borgeson lists the same box for 52-64 so I don't know about them being different bolt pattern. The Borgeson box is 16:1 vs the stock 20:1 ratio. https://www.borgeson.com/Power-Steering-Boxes/P-S-Conversion-52-64-Full-Sized-Ford-Cars.html
This was an article I saved some time ago from a guy that did the Borgson P/S conversion on his 55 Crown. I saved this as a word do***ent so don't know if the pictures will come over but he talks about the bolt hole misalignment with the frame holes on his 55 so I don't think this is truly a bolt in on all 52 to 64 Fords, some modifications seem to be necessary minor to major depending on who you talked to that day. Mark Articles Category: How To's 1955 Ford Crown Victoria Borgeson Power Steering Installation · · Written by Super User Published Date Hits: 2575 I have a 1955 Ford Crown Victoria with automatic transmission and column shift. The standard 24:1 steering ratio is no fun to drive around town so I opted for the 16:1 steering ratio from Borgeson. I wanted to maintain the column shift in lieu of a floor shift. I read the Borgeson add and thought just how hard could it be to install this kit? Surely my 82 year old body will see me through this job. So, here goes. I purchased the Borgeson 1952-1964 Full-sized Ford P/S Conversion for my 1955 Crown Victoria. Borgeson part numbers are: P/S Unit 800115, P/S Pump 800335, Two Row Crank Pulley 801150, Coupler 11/16-36x3/4 312500, and P/S Hose Kit 925108. Summit Racing Equipment had these same items for $30 less plus free shipping; an $80 savings. Borgeson would not match Summits price and also had a 4-6 week backlog. My Summit parts arrived in a few days. The quality of the parts looked very good too. Below, I have Borgeson’s instructions in bold print. And several of my Notes in italicized print. REMOVAL: The removal was somewhat challenging, however. With my 55’ on the lift, Boregeson’s instructions stated first,“ disconnect original pitman arm from original steering box and drag link”; this was easy to do with a puller. Note: I left the pitman arm connected to the drag link. Second, “with a steering wheel puller remove the original steering wheel from the steering box/column shaft”; also easy to do. Third, “disconnect the original steering column wiring and shift linkage if equipped and remove the steering column tube from over the steering box shaft”; also easy to do. Note: Measure the distance from the top of the steering column to its dash mounting point for future reference. At this time its best to remove the oil filter for clearance. Fourth, “remove the three bolts attaching the steering box to the frame and remove the original steering box from the vehicle”, not easy to do. Unless the carpet and insulation is pulled back far enough to access and remove a firewall plate, 12 inches in diameter, the steering box shaft will not clear the firewall. So, since I had new carpet and sticky insulation, I just cut off the shaft close to the steering box as possible. Out came the steering box and shaft, not too hard to do. Borgeson does state that “the original steering column will need to be shortened for the installation of their unit”, this is an understatement. No dimensions are given. “Column modification depends on shift location and can be quite involved on column shift cars”. Guys, this is also an understatement. INSTALLATION: The installation of the steering box did NOT fit. With my 55’ still on the lift, I placed the new steering box up to the frame and was able to get only the bottom bolt attached. The other two bolts had frame interference. With my handy white spray can, I shot some paint into the remaining two holes marking the frame interference. After removing the steering box, the white paint on the frame indicated where the frame needed to be modified. Note: “Grinding or altering the steering box in any way will void your warranty”. Thus, about 0.06” of material was removed from portions of the two frame holes. Next, I installed the steering box with the supplied three bolts and lock nuts. The bottom bolt required a 0.25” shim. Even with this shim the steering box comes into close contact with the exhaust manifold. Next “center the steering box and connect the original pitman arm first to the steering box and then to the original drag link. Check the steering box through its full rotation to insure the steering linkage operates freely without binding or interference”. You do not know where the steering box travel center is on this unit. Attach the pitman arm temporarily to the steering box, rotate the front wheels and ensure they can move full right then full left. This may require several pitman arm removals and installations to get the correct position. Now, align the front wheels to point straight ahead. I used a 5.75’ pipe to sight from both front wheels to the back wheels. This is a course adjustment because both tie rods may need adjusting later to center the steering wheel. Do not forget to reinstall the oil filter. “Modify your original steering column”. This is where the faint of heart should not try this installation. As you know the original column is held in place by slipping over the original steering box snout. The original column is 1.25” I.D. and will not slip over the Borgeson box since it is 1.80” O.D. I fabricated a part using the original steering box snout, some grinding and welding involved, that slipped over the Borgeson box and allowed the original column to slip over it. After this part is made, I installed it on the Borgeson box and measured to the column dash mounting point, see Note above. Now cut the column off the measured distance, about 3.9”. Cut 5 each 1-1/2” long slots at the end of the column so it will slip over the fabricated part and allow it to bend upward to the dash. The steering shaft modification is the hard part. The Coupler 312500 will allow, with some grinding, the shaft to slip into it. First, the shaft must be cut off. Refer to Note above. Do not weld the coupler to the shaft. Place the coupler / shaft over the steering box spline and note that the shaft is 10” below the dash (about 20 degrees out of alignment) mounting point. THIS WILL NOT WORK. A u-joint is the only way to achieve proper shaft alignment to the dash. I wondered what kid engineer designed this kit? I researched several u-joints but found none that would fit inside the fabricated part and steering column. A needle bearing u-joint would have been ideal but it was too big in diameter. I used a new Snap-On® 3/8” u-joint, did some minor grinding, welding and greased it. I made a leather wrapping to seal in the grease. Note that the measurement from the end of the spline to the end of the steering shaft is 30-1/16” long. The coupler had to be cut off about 1.0”. Note that the coupler set screw is ground off so the fabricated part will not interfere. Also, when measuring the shaft length, remember the set screw and steering box spline must align. The set screw MUST contact the spline groove or the shaft / steering wheel could come loose and you would NOT be able to control the car’s steering. Ensure the steering wheel end of the shaft is at the 12 o’clock position. I used green Lock-***e® on the set screw. Note that the steering wheel end of the shaft has a grove that points up in alignment with the steering wheel. Now, slip the fabricated part down the shaft to slip on the Borgeson box. Install the column over the shaft, u-joint and coupler over the fabricated part. Temporarily connect the column to the dash. Next, install the u-bolt / clamp that holds the shift shaft in place. The clamp was modified to fit over both the fabricated part 1.80” and column 1.0”. Reinstall the blinker ***embly, shaft collar, packing and spring. There is about 0.25” adjustment with the steering column to get the proper gap between column housing and steering wheel. There may be several cuts to the shaft and / or column before proper length is attained. “Install power steering pump, bracket and pulley kit”. Not too hard to install power steering pump. This did require a 0.25” spacer at the water pump for proper alignment to the crank pulley. Next, remove the radiator and remove the harmonic balancer bolt 1.61”. Install the 2-groove pulley over the harmonic balancer. The 2-groove pulley is BOWL shaped and is held in place with a bolt you must purchase. Note: I called Borgeson’s tech rep and he stated it required a 2.0” bolt and that future kits will include the bolt. He did not have a bolt to send me. Well, my measurement required a 2.5” bolt which I purchased locally. Installing the Bowl over the harmonic balancer was trial and error to get it true and aligned. After the bolt was secured, I found the fan blade s****ed the pulley. A 0.125” spacer between the fan and generator pulley solved this problem. Again I wondered what kid engineer designed this kit? A P/S & pulley belt was purchased to complete this job. “Install P/S Hose kit”: Not too hard to connect the P/S hose kit. “Just follow the arrows cast into the steering box”. Well, I got them wrong and the result was a violent steering wheel oscillation. After reversing the hoses, the P/S performed very well. Yes, the column shift was retained. A test drive revealed the steering wheel was slightly off center. With the car on the lift, adjusting the tie rods brought the steering wheel on center. Borgeson recommends getting a complete alignment. Also, increase the caster to 3-4 degrees positive. Note that modern cars have a 16:1 steering ratio. If anyone desires to install this kit, I am available by e-mail PHILJBRO@AOL.COM or phone 972-365-7661 or 972-278-1871. Submitted by Philip Broughton Garland, Texas Borgeson part numbers P/S Pump 800335 P/S Pulley 801150 Coupler 11/16 – 36 x ¾ 312500 P/S Hose Kit 925108 Cardone P/S pump (not Borgeson) 20-6800
I originally intended to use the Borgenson and actually purchased and installed one before deciding to go with R&P. It fit perfectly in my 55 Sunliner. I have built several earlier Fords (40 & 46) and none of them were exactly the same. I think that would be common at least thru the 60’s.
This is an older post. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-volvo-steering-in-a-shoebox-ford-made-ez.253457/ May work in 52-59's with alterations. The smaller size may be of help for steering to exhaust clearance in 52-56 cars. The Borgeson is larger than that stock unit.
I have a saginaw 601 in my Victoria. It was done when I got the car and it drove terrible, darting from side to side. Most everything was new under the car except I found the idler arm was loose and a couple of tie rod ends had loose nuts. Some one had also tightened the box adjustment down too tight, trying to correct the steering, I guess. The car has 2" Fatman spindles on it and I can't get much castor on it. After a lot of going over the previous work and trial and error I have it driving good.
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