Hi guys, a friend of mine is considering buying a 54 Chevy pickup. It is a stocker mostly. I don't know anything about it but was trying to help him look it over. It supposedly has the original 6 cyl engine in it which runs pretty good, just a little tappet noise. Did the 54 have a 216 or 235? Is it full pressure oiling or splash? There is not a oil filter I can see- cannister or spin on. Also it has 1980's radial tires on it P235 75 R 15. Did it have 15" or 16" wheels on it when new? Unfortunately the guy who owns it has had it for over 10 years but he really doesn't know squat about it. Thanks for your help.....
Great year to consider...made in 1954 and the 1st half of '55 only. Closed drive shaft. 235" full pressure, outside oil filter, solid lifter if it has a manual trans. First year for the full windshield, rather than the two piece, split version of the earlier years, plus new grille design. Radio and glove box are one year only, so expect to pay more to find them if the truck does not have them already. Yes, 16" wheels originally, does well with 15" radials. Here is mine, owned for 30yrs....
The following link is to the GM heritage center pfd on 54 Chevy trucks. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...its/Chevrolet-Trucks/1954-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf Page 18 /179 shows the Serial numbers for the 54 cabs that will be on the door post and the serial numbers for the engine that will be on the pad next to the distributor. That is also on the image below. One thing that he has to check is to make sure that the "vin" on the ***le matches either the serial number on the tag on the left door post or it matches the serial number on the engine block. No exact match for one or the other and it is a pile of parts rather than a truck. Several states used the engine block number up into the mid 50's while others used the door post serial number so you can't ***ume one way or the other until you look. Some states are now ***igning 17 digit ''***igned vins" now eveen when you go inn with the correct numbers on the ***le. = the serial numbers do not compute in the system is the reason why. The engine number and the cab number absolutely never match and any "matching numbers" BS on a Chevy AD truck is just that BS. Correct numbers for the year and model yes, matching = never happen. The main things to look for on any AD truck are Rust, damage from abuse (tweaked frame) and signs of suspect work. In the 70's and 80's guys would buy these trucks cheap , slap some bondo on the dents, spray the original color on it and make a few hundred quick bucks.
Not sure on a 54 but on my 50 3/4 ton 15 inch wheels were available and were what my truck came with.
Thanks guys that link was really helpful, Mr. I really don't remember a oil filter on this truck , did I miss it? Says there should be a cannister type...
One more question, and I know.... no pics, didn't happen, but I don't have pics... Anyway, on the rear frame rails of this truck- both of them have been badly modified where it curves up over the rear axle. Scabbed in 1/4" or so plate. Odd thing is rest of frame looks really good- not rusty. I think best way to fix it would be to take off box and start over. BUT- I saw in one adverti*****t for a 54 Frame that the 54 box was lowered on frame for newer box that sits lower on frame. 53 and older frame had more of a "hump" over rear axle and to take out spacer mounts, 54 frame had less of a "hump". Is that true???? Maybe this truck has a 53 or older frame and was modified poorly to fit a 54 box??? Thanks guys.
You could be right about the frame as they had no numbers on them, though if swapped it is usually the cab being swapped. the 54 and later box had a flat top, the 53 and earlier were at a 45 degree angle. The 3/4 ton frames never had much of a hump over the axle so it should not have needed much to mount it even on a half ton pickup. These are fairly simple vehicles designed so a farmer could repair it in the field.
Not sure anyone mentioned it beyond that this engine has solid lifters. A little bit of tappet noise in these is perfectly normal. In any case, checking the clearances is a good idea if purchased. That is a regular service procedure, in an case.
@Greg Rogers a 235ci L6 should be in that '54 pick up. 1952 was the last year for the 216ci version. We offer many new engine rebuild parts for the 235ci, have your friend give us a call when he is ready.
Hello again guys, well my buddy bought the truck. I will get some pics now. We were able to check it out on a lift and it is pretty damn good. I noticed the front wheel bearings are really loose side to side, I think they are older roller bearings- not tapered? Are roller bearings sposta be loose? I saw a kit to replace races etc and change to tapered bearings, It that the way to go??
I have driven my '54 3100 for over 30yrs, with interstate driving at 65mph with roller bearings with NO problems whatsoever. I normally tighten them up snug, and then back the nut off about 1/8 turn or so. Here is a pic of my truck. It is 12v, but completely stock other wise. 235", granny low 4 speed and the 3.90 rearend. Keep us posted on your progress or if you have any other questions. Fun truck!! Bob
Good looking truck. I think it should have ball bearings in the front hubs, but they have sometimes been swapped using a later tapered roller. The balls are fine, but require a different adjustment technique if used to tapered rollers. I think they require a torque of around 30ftlbs, then back of less that a 1/2 turn, maybe less.
They will be ball bearings, I'd pull the hubs, check and pack the bearings and put them back on and then adjust them up neither tight nor loose. Meaning that you don't preload them but you tighten the nut and then back it off and rock the wrench gently to where it stops and back off to the closest slot to put a cotter key in. This is how I have been doing it on this style of bearing for 60 years since I was first taught too do it this way in high school auto shop cl***.
Like others have said they are ball bearings. My past experience with ball is that they need more attention (grease and adjustment) then tapered roller if you drive a lot. The downside is that the tapered kits you can get use cheaper bearings and NOTHING crosses to them. I've been using the tapered kit for a few years and I drive my panel a lot (10k + a yr).
I've got probably 100K on the ball bearings that are on my 48 Now. Packing them correctly with good wheel bearing grease on a regular basis is the key. 1. Absolutely never wash a wheel bearing or any ball or roller bearing in solvent if you intend to use it again. This is one thing I was taught in 1962 as a sophomore in high school auto shop cl*** and it has stuck. The guys with a high rate of wheel bearing issues are usually washing them every time they pack them and the solvent never gets out of all the hiding spots in the bearing. 2. actually pack the bearing so you are pushing grease though the bearing so you push the old grease out until you get clean grease coming out. Glob of grease in the palm of one hand, bearing in the other and pull the bearing though the grease. 3. as I said in post 18 when you adjust the bearing you want neither tight nor loose. You do want to tighten the nut until you know you have all of the slack out of it then back it off and just rock the wrench to where you find that spot where the nut stops turning but you aren't putting extra pressure on the bearing. Then if you aren't on one of the slots for the cotter key move the nut just enough to get the slot open to put the key in. That is what has worked for me for 60 years. A fair number of those years doing brake jobs for a living and packing a lot of wheel bearings.
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