Hot Rods Chevy 283 To Turbo 350 Install

Having unsuccessfully tried to mate a 1973 Turbo 350 to a 1959 283 we are stumped. All holes lined up fine, torque converter was completely seated in the transmission but as we tightened the bolts the last 1/16 of an inch you can no longer turn over the engine or transmission. Even with the use of a large pry bar. Flywheel bolts are not hitting the block any other ideas of what could be causing the issue? Shown are the torque converter, which I might add is supposedly a stock 1973 Chevy converter and flywheel.

Thanks,
TR

 

^^^^X2 on both posts.

 

There are two notches on the torque converter hub that line up with two lugs that drive the pump on the transmission. If they are not lined up it won't go in all the way. I've seen thrust surfaces on the crank wiped out from this by trying to force them together.

 

Just to add, the converter should be into the transmission first, what has been said before, is easily seen when you do this (converter behind the BH of the transmission). Then mate it to the block, and maneuver then mate TC for the dirt bolt, the rotate the flex plate around and get the other two.

 

Is there supposed to be a block plate in between the engine and the transmission bell housing bolts?

 

Looks like the pilot bushing(for manual transmission) is still in the crankshaft bore. You'll need to remove it, so the hub of the torque converter can seat in it's proper place in the bore.

 

Budget36, what exactly is a "dirt bolt"?

TrentR, if the converter is all the way in it should clear a straight edge placed across the bellhousing flange. (meaning the doughnut looking part of the torque converter, not to include the center locating pin)

 

Typo with auto correct I suppose, should have be “first bolt”.
Note to self, proofread before posting

 

Moriarity is on the money. Get rid of the lock washers.The converter pads should be at a minimum 1 in from the face of the bell housing. If the trans is a fresh rebuild, the pump gears could also be installed upside down

 

@Moriarity , yes if the bushing is far enough in, but if it's out past it's bore, and into the TC's hub bore it will stop there. Just need to check if it's interfering; removing the pilot bushing removes all doubt. But, he doesn't have to, if it's clear.

 

Could be the angle of the picture, but that converter doesn't look like it's in all the way. When it's fully seated, you shouldn't be able to get your finger's between the converter and the top of the bellhousing.

 

I usually measure the distance from the back of the block, to the bolt pad on the flexplate. Them measure the distance between the front face of the transmission case (bellhousing), to the bolt lug on the torque converter. If the converter is seated all the way, then the trans measurement will be greater than the engine measurement. If not, you need to seat the converter all the way in the transmission pump.

But if you forced it, you might have already broken the lugs on the pump gear. Which means you need the transmission fixed before you proceed.

 

It takes two "clunks" for me most of the time. Doesn't just fall in when I've done it. Need a few bad words.

 

I re-read your original post. Sounds like the transmission isn't making it to the block, which means the torque converter isn't properly engaged. Pull the transmission back and ensure the converter is seated; as stated above rotate the converter until you hear 2 clunks and it sits back from the face, and just clears the inside of the bellhousing cavity.

 

In my limited experience, you never knew that the converter had fully engaged the pump until you mashed a couple of your fingers between the T.C. and the inside of the bellhousing when everything finally slipped into place.

 

Every Chevy flywheel or flexplate bolt I have installed had STAR lock washers no matter what the application was. There is pretty tight clearance between the flex plate and the front face of the converter when they are tight but if the bots are hitting the converter you see marks from the contact.
I'm with Moriarity and the others in that if you did not have the converter properly seated (going in two clunks when you turn the converter by hand while pushing it into the pump) you stand a serious chance of having broken the pump.

As for sliding the trans up to the engine I have found that if you grab 2 3/8 course bolts that are 4 or so inches long and when you get the trans up close to the back of the block stick those bolts through the bottom two bolt holes of the trans bellhousing and get the trans lined up so you can screw them into the block. Then you just slide the trans forward on the bolts and everything is lined up and you aren't fighting it and it should slide right up to the back of the block. I had a pair that I had cut the heads off and sawed screw driver slots in years ago but they grew feet and walked off at one time or another.

 

I vote for removing the pilot bushing, remove all doubts PLUS measure TC snout vs crank opening. Just installed a 200-4R in my '40 and did what I just suggested. Slide in easily

 

Wouldn’t he Pilot bushing have to be about a 1/2 in proud of the crank to cause an issue? The pic shown sure looks like is in the crank , not sticking out?

The converter surely isn’t going in the hole for it.

 

I always use a couple chunks of all thread screwed into the block to guide the trans into place. I want the trans to seat easily against the block, and would never draw it in with bolts. I also want the converter to be away from the flexplate, and pull it forward to bolt it up.
If either trans or converter are tight before it's seated, there's something wrong that needs to be addressed before going any further.

 

1, Not in the way. All one has to do is hold the converter itself up to the crank and flex. If the mounting pads freely touch the flex , then the pb is not in the way. Same goes for the non- stock split lock washers.
2, No snouts on converters .The pilot is in the front..Hub in the back.
3, Actually 3 engagement points ..The input, the stator support , the pump gear. You just can't hear the first one because the input rotates freely.
4, The conv. picture looks to me like it's in all the way at the bottom lug..Wouldn't swear to it because that's most likely the problem.
5, How would one turn the "locked up" transmission anyway ?
6, Curious as to what converter bolts are planned here, seeing the crank bolts are a random lot.
7, Doubtful we'll ever hear the resolution on this one. We all made mistakes at 17

 

Thanks for all the helpful input, you guys were right, the transmission pump lugs both broke. Learned a valuable lesson and bought another turbo 350 today. Hopefully this install goes a little better.

Thanks,
TR

 

If you dont mash your fingers, it's not in far enough. Sorry about the first trans.

 

Great. Now hold on to that trans core, if you can. Pick up an ATSG manual and then you can learn how a T350 works. Maybe even rebuild it for future use. Good luck.