Please help, I have a passenger window that was new, with new felt and a new window mech. When originally installed it did not go up and down smoothly and soon bound up. I tore it apart and found the felt was being destroyed on the hinge side. I removed some of the felt that was balled up and was able to get the window to go up and down but not great. Well that fix soon failed and the felt balled up again worse. When I pulled the felt strip out completely I noticed the widow seems to want to push to the side and hit the metal of the door. I believe the window mechanism is now bent, and I managed to crack the glass while trouble shooting what was the root cause. Anybody have some thoughts on this issue. The other door is perfect, maybe the glass was slightly too big? I am lucky I have the original window mechanism still-it was just clunky, but if the other is bent it may be the better option.
I had a very similar problem with my '32 sedan, it was doing the same thing. I tore up a new set of window felt and soon discovered the the lower window channel at the front of the passenger door had broken loose, rolling the window up or down the channel was moving and wadding the felt. Works like a champ now. HRP
I had the same issue with my A when I installed everything new. I almost wonder if the new felt is too fluffy if that makes sense. My passenger side glass likes to bind in some spots and then will rattle because it's loose in a couple other. On another note were you at deuce days in Victoria with your coupe? Believe I saw it there.
On the same sort of problem with my OT vehicle, I found spraying a silicone spray into the channel helped the window to move without binding..
Got the same problem with mine. I purchased a new set of channel felts but not dug into it to see the cause yet.
Well I got it fixed mostly. I found 3 problems. The main cause was when I seated the window in the metal channel that connects the window to the actuator I didn't get in the correct place. The end of the metal channel was running up and down the felt binding and tearing everything up. I also found where the metal channel connects to the actuator arm it had gone in too far, the whole end of the arm both round parts had slipped through the oblong connection hole and was not sliding down the channel correctly. These two issues cause the actuator arm to bend to the point of no longer being functional. My solution was to cut down the channel by 2 inches while still attached to the window.-I tried to get the window out of the channel 1st but it was cracking the window worse. I also replaced the actuator with the original one that is a little difficult but now much better than the bent re-pop. Long term I should replace the felt and the window but for now it works and the crack is about 4-5 inches but at the very bottom and ends in the channel. Getting the window in and out was a challenge but a trick is to drill out the window stops and get them out while working on the door. We welded nuts to them on the inside to make them easy to reinstall.
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