Technical Keyed kill switch or other?

I have a pull/on, pull further to start (like a pinball machine), push/off So-Cal speed shops ignition switch in my gauge cluster.
Was considering using a keyed battery disconnect, but realized what I probably should have is a hidden/keyed switch somewhere in the critical ignition circuit (maybe the hot wire or ignition wire to the MSD 6A box). that should make it hard to start (unless someone jumped the switch up under my dash). I do intend to put a battery disconnect switch in the trunk as well.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to solve this problem? Sources/part numbers much appreciated.

~Thanks

 

We normally use something, anything that has to be turned on to activate a relay that sends power to the starter solenoid. Used windshield wiper button before, headlights half to be on or glove box light has to be lit.

So the wire from your key switch to active the starter solenoid would run to the relay. Like power in. Then the out would go to the start to complete the circuit. Then you just need a ground or positive to activate the relay from anything you choose.

to me your just slowing then down long enough to loose interest.

 

If they see where the key is, then they may cut it and just hot wire that also.
I am seeing more and more, if your ride is going to be taken, they will just flat bed or tow it away and deal with it later.

That said, I saw someone had a Battery with an internal kill switch with a remote and thought it was pretty cool. the whole battery shuts down.

I also say for carshow that you drove to and have your ride out at night at the hotel, use a shitty car cover and add a giant Toyota Logo, then you will only get your CAT cut out.

 

Dustin, So that is a like a Bosch relay setup to the ignition on your reg key right?, sounds easy!!!

 

Yes correct. Easy to do. I’ve gone as far, to hide the relay next to the fans under the hood. So anyone looking would think it’s just a fan relay. On my two trucks no one can fit under them to by pass the starter solenoid. Standard Chevy setup.

 

Havnt done it yet, but I’ve thought about using a square body duel tank valve switch. Have it ran inline with the tank and have it switched to a dead line when not in use. Someone wanting to steal the truck would have probably 10 seconds of run time before bowls run out. I think it firing off then dies would scare them more.

 

I also use the So-Cal switch and a hidden keyed battery cut off. Removable steering wheel slows 'em down!

 

These two items are pretty much all that's needed nowadays.

 

I’m tossing around the idea of a couple toggle switches in my merc , kinda like furiosas war rig in the fury road movie

on , off , on , on , off and scattered around the passenger compartment.

right now I got a push on/off switch going to my ignition box and the factory key ignition lock and toggle switch under the steering wheel on the steering column .

once I move the battery to the trunk I’m going to put a master disconnect on it .

at the end of the day if they really want it they just tow it , but anything we can do to slow them down helps .

my wife’s appliance got stolen out of the drive way a couple months ago and insurance told us one of the best deterrents is a good old CLUB !

I laughed and told them they are pretty easy to disable , insurance simply said yes they are but a few minutes extra to steal your car usually sends crooks down the road for easier findings .

 

My rotor button rides in my pocket when I am away from the car.
And a good quality club lock on the steering wheel. Make sure you go to full lock before you put it on.

 

Put a Ron Francis remote power cutoff on our 50 Chevy Convertible. Works great. Just push the button on the fob.

 

You can use a dual post switch on the ballast wire , so the engine fires but cuts out when the starter is released.
You also wire this switch so it grounds the fuel gauge sender [Chevy] or breaks the sender wire [Ford] so the gauge reads empty
You would need a DPDT switch for either Ford or Chevy [you can also use a DPST on a Ford]

With the ballast switched off the engine fires like it has run out of gas!



Or
Just use a latching relay on the horn, that is triggered by the starter circuit. Even if the "thief" uses a screwdriver on the starter solenoid it will backfeed to the horn.
A latching relay keeps the horn blasting until the latch circuit is broken


This ^^^^ usually leaves DNA evidence in you car

 

Thanks - that sounds like a great "undercover" idea...
I won't have many circuits though, the gauges are going to have the most circuits out of anything. Lights, ignition, brake & neutral switches, ignition circuit and that's about it. Maybe a switch hidden under the seat that activates the relay?

 

I had a relay in the "start" circuit which had a reed relay (magnetic) in it's coil circuit. The reed relay was mounted behind a small cutout on the dash, so that when a magnet was placed in the right position, it would make the coil circuit, and you could start the engine. The magnet was a dashboard saint my Granma gave me when I was a kid, and it has saved my car being swiped twice now.

 

That is an awesome idea. By latching relay you talking about using a 5 pin relay? And use the pin that is hot when the relay is open (off) to power the horn relay? Pin 87a I think. So if someone hot wires the switch without turning on the kill switch (closed circuit) it would just blow the horn?

 

An extra OEM wiper or headlight switch installed in the dash and wired into the coil or starter wiring works. Done that to a few cars, looks like it came that way - hiding in plain sight!

 

I've been leaving the key in the ignition more often lately, they still won't steal my junk.

 

You convert a normal relay to latching relay by looping a wire from the secondary output to the primary input wire
This keeps the relay activated even when there is no source of power to the primary [eg: horn button]
To switch it off ,you need to break the latching loop [with a hidden switch]

I did this ^^^^ for a start line roll protection on my old race car.
I used a button to activate a relay to a "line-lock" on the front brake circuit. Then when I released the button the brakes remained locked.
The latching loop was disconnected with a clutch pedal switch. [an old brake light switch]

You need to hold the clutch pedal down at the same time as the button is pushed to latch it.
Normal clutch shifting didn't activate it, as the relay was "dead" and wouldn't latch.

Edit: [Almost forgot] I also have a latching relay fitted to "Our" 57 Chevy which has the sound system connected to 12v constant.
The relay is activated by the ignition switch ,and I can then listen to music with the Ignition off [not burning the points/coil/ballast]
To switch off the latch, I simply open the door [with the key off]

 

If you don't smoke, but have a cigarette lighter in your car, it makes a REAL handy low resistance ground source. Push it in, the wire coming out the back is grounded. Pull it out, and it's not. Connected to the points side of the coil will keep the car from starting if it's pushed in. With a relay connected to it it can be used to power a fuel pump, provide power for the starter solenoid, electronic ignition, etc.

 

Kerrynzl ok I get what your saying. But what if a wire was run from the 87a terminal ( on the starter side) that is hot when the relay is open to another relay that Powers the horn. I don’t think you could run it straight to the horn relay because most run off a ground circuit to activate. Or you could run it to a different type of siren or horn. Just a thought in my head. I’ll have to try this out, but I don’t think the back feed in power would give you any horn action when then starter is activated with the kill switch closed. Especially with a diode in place