Ive got my clutch slave problem solved and my steering solved. I also made a better column drop using shaft collar and some 1/4 flat stock. Next I will drill the fire wall for the steering column and then go about bracing the firewall and pedal ***embly.
Did a little more today. Got the firewall in place and drilled for the steering column. Worked out nice. pedals sit in a good spot. I had em on the floor before.
Good for you putting the pedals and MC on the firewall, that's where they should be. Easier to service and out of the way for some decent sized exhaust without it hanging down on the ground. Frank
Set the radiator and shell in place. The radiator will come up about 1/2 inch. the grill can go down another 2 inches. I have to move it forward about an inch. Its starting to look like something
I got my firewall painted and rivited in place today. Yes I can rui I mean paint any firewall for $9.99 or less
Scot, Is that an "A" coupe ? Can't tell from the pix. I am workimg on an "A" Coupe. Power is a Marine Y-Block Ford '56 292 or 312. It has two side draft Carter onr bbl's. Wish you luck with your dead line ! Keep the updates coming. 41 Dave
clutch slave looks good but I think i would add a plate to the end to help kill and stress on the block bolt. did a quick pic of what I would add
Thanks for payin attention guys. Just kind of scoped out my next moves for sub floor and bracing for body alignment, as good as that can possibly get. I actally paid attention to my kids today I will add more to the never ending saga of the slave cylinder, thanks for the input. And I wish it was a coupe
Got my radiator location set,put up some supports for it. Lowered the grill another 1-1/2 inches Strengthened the firewall some more. My goal is to fire up the 283 by the end of september, so I gotta get a fuel pump and pushrod,some fuel line and filter a starter and a battery at the very least.Truck seems to be tightening up nicely. Still a long way to go. But I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel(or was that just an arc flash) Thanks for lookin
Mounted my new edelbrock carb and began plumbing. My goal is to have the engine running at the end of the month. Next conquest is throttle linkage. I have a small issue with my temp sender. The reducer that I am using doesnt stop the probe from falling into the manifold. I guess I canscrew a small 3/8 npt ****** in before inserting probe. sounds a little ***** . I used a castiron waterneck at sqirrels suggestion. I have a petronix module for the distributor that I have to set up. Thanks for lookin.
Hey Scott gotta question....what is the master cylinder you are running? I've seen them before but can never remember what they are from. Might do the same with my A coupe. Bill
It is a 60 -62 chevy truck master. It has 1-1/16 bores for clutch and brakes. I believe they come in 1" bores also.
Awesome work Scott. Any new updates on your truck? Can you post some pics on how you installed the peddles under the dash? Did you use the brake setup off of a '60-'62 Chevy truck? TIA, David
I used the ansen swing pedals the bracket bolts directly to the firewall, and I am actually going to brace them to what is left of the gas tank. This setup requires switching the "guts" for brake and clutch in the mc. (Basically moving the residual pressure valve from one bore to the other)
Since my last post I have installed fuel pump, Still to plumb. Made upper radiator hose from a multi bend hose I found at the local swap. Bent up a lower mount for my alternator. I was having major anguish around the fuel pump plumbing and the lower radiator hose area. the area is tiny and the hose requires about a 180 and a 90 in a tight spot. This would also cause problems with the fuel line plumbing. I bought a stainless hose that you can bend the heck out of and it wont kink. It really solved some clearance issues. If I can get the fuel system plumbed this week and the engine electical wired next week, I should be able to fire it. (Fingers crossed)That piece of bent hose is about 6 inches of leftover. Thanks for lookin!!
A little plumbing. If you are going to bend fuel line get stainless or good quality steel lines ,the local auto parts sold me some cheepo S@#% and I kinked the heck out of it at about 60 degrees. My friend Mark(Hip) Had some extra 5/16 lying around, which he donated to me worked out great. Tools are a HF tubing bender I got about 15 years ago and a 20 dollar double flaring tool from Kragens The tube nuts on the ends are inverted flair, so if you have to do any coupling be sure to get the correct fitting. there are so many different kinds of fittings it can make you crosseyed.
The Jalopy Journal
