I'll take note of that. Thanks. The chevy spindle thing is just something I found that looked like it may or may not work. Something known to work is a lot better. I found a different kit I think is for T buckets, a spring-behind kit with hairpin radius rods and such.
I know very little about building a T bucket, but be careful as to what information you are looking at. The early '30's/'40's Go Jobs used mostly Ford parts. The later T-Bucket craze of the '60's/'70's was like the Wild West of fabrication and parts selection. Sometimes guys used odd ball stuff just to say they did. Didn't mean it worked well. It was an odd time for hot rodding for sure.
Aight fellas, I got an update. I found a kit to put disc brakes on the original front axle. It uses discs and calipers sized for a Honda goldwing. Counting on motorcycle brakes for a car makes me nervous, but then I did some thinking. A Honda Goldwing weighs like 850 pounds by itself, and it only has one wheel of brakes on the front instead of two. It sounds theoretically adequate. It's a kit for original T drivers rather than hot rod stuff though. Not saying I'm going to use that, but asking for opinions. It is a bolt on.
Will you have to use Goldwing wheels and tires? Does the kit come with the master cylinder and a proportional valve. I am asking because the original model t rear brakes are mechanical. Are you planning on lowering the front suspension? Can you afford all the original parts to rebuild a model t axle and suspension? As mentioned before the radius rods may not be strong enough when split and adding the weight of the early SBF engine. Are you going to Z the frame?
I'm 100% putting a more modern rear end under the back, so it would be hydraulic all the way around. I will buy or fabricate better wishbones instead of cutting up the ancient tubes. The brake setup I think should be using a speedway motors firewall mounted pedal setup and a mustang cylinder, rather than the kit-provided provided master cylinder setup. I'll Z the frame if I have to, but I'd rather not just to save the work
The motorcycle brakes is a dumb idea. The restorers who need to hide a modern brake might like the tiny discs, but anyone going over 40 MPH won't. Plan on finding and using some 40 Ford spindles, because everyone and their mother makes disc brake kits for them. Or you can actually fit 40 drum brakes on them if you want. And they fit directly on all Ford axles from 1928 to 1948, as well as any aftermarket axle worth its salt. Sounds like you should do some more reading and planning before you go buying weird parts that won't make a good driving hot rod. Ask any questions here, as HAMBers pretty much have seen and built it all.
I didn't Z the frame on mine. And I used the original model t front and rear crossmembers with both original springs and shackles. But it meant that I had to get creative with suspension mounts. Did you want front fenders, aprons and hood? Did you want to set the body on top of the frame, hi-boy style or channeled to some degree? This will affect interior space. The pickup cab is pretty small.
Luckily, speedway has me covered om the rear part of it. I'm gonna set it atop the frame, on the mountings it's already on. To be quite honest, fixing the rust on the cab is the biggest concern I have. There is a lot of metal missing. It's not gonna look good whatever I do.
Well don't worry about looking good right now. And as far as the missing bed is concerned don't worry about that till it is running. Do you have the doors? Is this a RPU or a closed cab? I would like a better picture to see what you are really working with. Getting the sub frame strong is what really matters. That is what bolts to the frame and the entire body is attached to that somehow or someway. You are welcome to look at my albums for ideas ( it's not the nicest build in the world but I built it with a very small budget, made a lot of parts myself) and the " Blue Martian survivor build " would be good information.
Yeah, aiming the parts cannon based on what’s most easily loaded is a recipe for a r*t r*d. To me it’s a lot of money and fab to make something one has marginally “work”. That’s one vision, I guess, but I don’t have the experience to help steer this ship. You are wise in being open to learning though. Best of luck. D
I never realized how inexpensive speedway motors is. Minus finding something by sheer luck in a junk yard, it is actually no more expensive to buy a brand new front end than it is to buy an original model a axle and give it hydraulic brakes. I've been shopping ebay and stuff for decent used parts and there are none
Getting hung up on how to use what you have (***uming what you have is a random ***ortment of unrelated parts) will cost you more, take longer and work worse in the long run. Hot rodding is not pure formula but there are formulas for a reason and nobody can argue that the Ford front end with ‘40 brakes is a proven one.
1999 Goldwing front disc diameter is 11 5/8", and there is a pair of them on the front wheel. Rear diameter is 12 7/16. While they're not "traditional" in any sense of the word, they are far from tiny. On a lightweight T-based rig with a small 6 cylinder they would likely be more than adequate.
@thesethawa keep looking there are still alot of good parts out there. Not too long ago I picked up a bunch of Model A parts I found on Craigslist and the guy turned out to be only about a mile and a half away.
Alright fellas, big change to the rod here. The 221 is off the table. I've been talked out of it by my enthusiast family members. I am instead going to use a 1964 390 big block, which I already have in a Galaxie I got for $100, and a manual shift FMX. I also have one of those rare factory FoMoCo aluminum 4 barrel FE intakes I found in a junk yard for like $25 to stick on there and take off like 50 pounds of weight. The auto should be easier to install too
Okay, Does the 390 run? Does the FMX automatic work? If not, you will spend way more money and time getting them to run than just installing a small block chevy and TH350 transmission. There is also dimensional problems you will have to deal with, like fitting the starter inside the frame rail. Whether to use the stock exhaust manifolds or headers. And steering box clearance and room for the drag link. I like the 390 but it is large and heavy. Also modifying the firewall for clearance needs to be considered regarding which engine you use. Do you have the model t radiator grille shell?
Another tidbit is that FMX transmission is not designed to be a hard shifting, high reving transmission. It's designed for a large cruising 4 door sedan.
I don't really want a small block chevy. Might as well just buy some ****py old camaro to just put a 350 on there. I ain't doing this purely because of expense or ease. I'd rather spend a little more and have something unique. Not to mention I want to rebuild whatever engine I used anyway so running isn't a major factor.
Trust me I understand about being different. I put a 300 ford straight six and C4 into a 1927 model t coupe. It would have been easier to just put another SBF back in than shoving in a 37 in. Long engine. If they can put a hemi into a model a, then you can put a 390 in a model t. Just understand that it will harder, take more time, and cost more. And I will help you as best I can.
Have you gotten the frame and body project you found for sale? I ask because the rolling ch***is you pictured belongs to Clayton Paddison. And at the moment it is a completed car and not for sale. So most likely the add you found is unfortunately a scammer. Sorry to say it. But anyway a t frame even boxed will never support anything more that a stock Flathead v8 with about 100hp. Model t parts are for extremely early style gow job hotrods and restored model t fords. Anything more than that will twist up and self destruct. My t roadster will have 60hp, no front brakes, and is still a 100 year old car, and that is the best part. It’s still an antique!
No deposit. It was a fair sale but it still ****s, I had been talking with the guy over the course of two weeks. Also I should mention the one from the ad is not the picture, the one from the ad I didn't show to keep the listing to myself. It was only a ch***is and a rusted out body.
Dude that’s a bummer, I’m sorry. But hey look for super nice model a ch***is and find the best t body you can. Start with the best you can find. It may be more expensive but you’ll be happier in the long run. Also an option if steel isn’t a deal breaker is using a speedway model t roadster body.
My dad offered me his 1984 Thunderbird project to finish, I may wind up going that way. He's already got a tubular front k member and oil pan and stuff to drop a big block ford in it. If I take that offer, I'll be rebuilding a 1968 429 to put down in there.
The Jalopy Journal
