Hot Rods Snap-On Tool Handle Deteoriating, How To Replace

Since I'm in the middle of moving my workshop I can't locate the other two Snap-On tool handles, on hammers, that are deteriorating seemingly because of age. I wanted to show them to the readership. I didn't use the hammers much at all over the past 20 odd years. The hammer handles actually broke in several places and ultimately popped off in small pieces.The photo shows a pry bar experiencing the same malady. I don't imagine it will be long before it too simply pops off its shaft as the hammer handles did. Possibly the mixture they used to cast the handle just doesn't hold up over time.
Looking for suggestions on what to use to make a new handle for this tool. I've thought about carving (routing would be better of course) a slot in a couple pieces of maple and gluing the plot together. I've also toyed with the idea of drilling the bar and using counter-
sunk screws. I've never attempted to rivet a handle in place but that seems like a third
option. I wouldn't know what type of rivets to use, aircraft I imagine but not familiar with
part numbers, etc.
So, seeking suggestions for a replacement handle.

 

The rivet and screw ideas lend themselves to a situation where skin is lost in my book. I like the idea of casting a new plastic handle.

 

Snap On will replace that handle under warranty. Not sure about the hammers, but screwdrivers, pry bars, yes. Find a Snap On dealer and take it to them.

 

These being Snap-On brand, can't you just trade them in for new ones?

 

Mine have been replaced numerous times , for this issue . My screwdriver drawer in the tool box starts smelling like *** , it’s time to look for a rotten handle

 

I had the same problem about 8-10 years ago. The Snap On dealer replaced the ones he had and exchanged the ones he didn't. The only problem is, I'm not a big fan of the replacement ones, the handle is different. Gene.

 

Friction tape.

 

Would like to learn a bit about casting a new handle as I've never worked with composite type material previously. Always willing to try new to me techniques.

 

I would suggest two part resin casting however you’ll need a bunch of stuff and it may end up costing more than a new handle. I used it successfully to make dash knobs that matched the stock ones. They hold up nicely however you need to learn the technique, there is the cost of buy in and it stinks until it hardens

you’ll need:
A and B parts (Resin and hardner)
Tint for color
Measuring cups (one time use)
Stirrers
A and B parts for the mold
Releasing agent
Time and patience

 

Can you supply a brand name? I may not make a handle but would like to see the product, and suggestions on how to make a mold. Am sure I'd find other uses for the stuff, plus I may bite the bullet and make a handle.

 

Countersunk or flush rivets or screws look pretty good if done by someone who knows what they're doing, and right now that's not me...but I sure like to learn.

 

Take your question to the Garage Journal.... Get some more ideas....

LynnW

 

If it still says Snap On or has the part number readable on the handle, the tool truck will replace the entire tool. The current style handles are quite nice. My 20 year old br*** head hammer crumbled apart and I got a shiny new one with no h***le.

 

It's been a long time but I have had one or two replaced under warranty. I think I had to buy one because it got against an exhaust manifold and melted.

No need to if the tool part is good, they just chuck the tool in a vise, knock the handle off, bop the new handle on with a soft mallet and you go again.

 

I used alumilite clear casting (UV resistant) resin, and castin craft silicone putty. You have to be careful and use even parts or it will not harden properly. I used a gram scale for the putty and for the resin mixes. This what I did:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-1959-task-force-knobs.930007/

 

Great looking knobs and I can sure appreciate the road you took to achieve them. I'll look into doing some resin casting myself. Thanks again.

 

I wonder, but could a “all in one” style handle with metal insert fit ?
Might be just my area, but was never able to have a SnapOn tool replaced without a receipt.
Makes sense I guess, I surely never bought a new one

 

McMaster-Carr has solid br*** countersunk rivet in all sizes and lengths as well as br*** SAE washers. If you have a Woodcraft store around you, they will have small cut off pieces of hard exotic woods. I like Padauk. Unfinished Padauk is bright orange but finish it with gloss spar varnish, tung oil or boiled linseed oil and the wood turns a beautiful dark red. Rout a groove half the thickness of the tang of the pry bar or hammer in two pieces of wood. Sandwich the tang between the two halves of the handle. I use Gorilla Glue. Drill your rivet holes and countersink one side. Use a Forstner bit the same diameter of the washer for the other side and cut to the thickness of the washer. You will have to countersink the hole in the washer slightly and peen the rivet to fill the hole. File the rivet flush with the wood and finish the wood with whatever you like. This may be more information than you wanted but, you did ask.

 

No reason to overthink those tool handles.
My file got a "new" handle 40 years ago from a piece of chair leg. It's still going strong but the original finish is showing some miles.

 

Thank you! It is very rewarding to start off with an idea then learn and then be left with something you made.

Be sure you not to shake the resin, stir slowly to avoid bubbles. Do working in a well ventilated shop area, the smell is bad. Good luck! Hope you show us something you made.

 

I would just have my Snap On guy replace it.

I don't get attached to tools, just their function. When they don't function as desired, they get repalced.

On a side note: if you want a roll away full of Snap On tools on-the-cheap, buy vintage ones on eBay.

People collect vintage ones. They do not, however, want ones that have "owner marks". Those tend to be low in price.

Plus, if you do happen to break it, or it does not work, you can hand it to the Snap On guy, and get a new one.

 

I still have my grandpa's axe. It's had 6 handles and 3 new heads.

 

One of the reasons screwdriver handles start looking like that is because people spray them off with Brakleen or similar products. If I get a plastic handle tool, screwdriver, ratchet, etc., that greasy, I take it in the locker room at work and wash it off with Dawn and hot water.

 

I didn't realize Mc-Master had the washers you note and will look them up. I'm pretty familiar with the rest of the (good) info you supplied. I've made violin maker knives in the past that had to slide in and out of the handles for hollow grind sharpening purposes and have looked at the Paduk wood. I've used Paca wood which is similar. I haven't cast a handle yet and like the idea of learning something new. Thanks for the most complete reply.

 

My Matco deadblow did the same. Matco dealer replaced it, and was amazed that I had the 22 year old receipt for it. Good thing I did, they had measured it and thought it was one size smaller...guess the sizes changed over the years.

 

Take it to the dealer, if they won’t replace then I guess it’s time to **** around making a handle , 30 year old snap on ratchet, stripped out , took it to a dealer, boom, brand new ratchet. ****men ratchet , took it to parts supplier , got new guts for it no charge, it worth trying!

 

I have an engineer's hammer and several mallets with osage orange handles. Sometimes I use hickory if it is available, and once I cut some limbs from a persimmon tree and made heads for a couple of mallets. Rock hard. Great for metal shaping. I agree that just getting Snap-On to replace it is the simple route, but I like wooden handles for BFH banging.

 

I’ve put lots of handles on many different tools, but if it’s something with warranty, I’ll hit them up first

 

Had a black colored Mac recently stink up my toolbox. Seems the solid color handles deteriorate, whereas the clear handles do not. I have many clear handle Craftsman screwdrivers (some I've had since High School; 40+ years) that still work fine, even after being misused (beat with a hammer).

 

Hello,

If there is any part of the whole handle left, there is no need to get a new handle. For the past several years, since the product came out, it has served us quite well in all sorts of tools and parts. If the handle resembles your photo, this product, wrap tape works quite well. It not only covers any blemishes, but gives a quite comfortable grip on any tool, bar, chisel, etc. One layer almost makes it water proof, but several layers makes a comfortable grip on any tool, handle or implement.

There are many brands, but we have used this Silicone Flex Tape to wrap braided lines for better grip, steering handles and tillers, even a mop handle that needed some grip to make it feel a lot more comfortable in use. The added benefit is that if applied correctly, it actually seals water leaks, too. It is good to have in a traveling tool kit for emergencies, too.

The original Silicone Flex Tape is good for all uses. It does not go on like normal black electrician’s tape, it must have a source the start of the Flex Tape for grip, then the stretching and laying down the tape is up to your design. But, once it is on, it is comfortable while the old black electrician’s tape gives no support or comfort. Plus, none of the black gooey stuff comes off in your hands, like the electrician’s tape. The Silicone Tape is comfortable once applied correctly and does not leave any residue.

If you do not want to use the Silicone Flex Tape, and you still want to use your old hammer, there are commercial handles that would slip onto your metal empty handle. Then, using force fit and to use the soft tape to give the handles some grip and comfort. Simply wrap it around and the grip is very comfortable.

The force fitting process should give plenty of friction, so as not to come off in any amount of swing. No need for screws or additional holding inserts. If you don’t like the feel of the new handle, then wrap it in the Silicone Flex Tape for comfort and grip.

Unless you had that metal handle hammer since you were born, no amount of screws or rivets or attachment pins will give you your old hammer handle back. So, either buy a new one or adapt the remaining handle with a different force slip fit grip and the Silicone Flex Tape for security and comfort.

Jnaki

As much as I use a hammer, ours are 30 years old on the right and 15 on the left. The left one is lighter weight and feels better in use. But, “to each his own…”

NOTE;
The Silicone Flex Tape adapts to any situation. I had to use a crutch for a while and the handle with the ***embly parts needed some covering as the parts were sharp and the nuts/bolts stuck our hitting everything. So, wrapping some clear Silicone Flex Tape covered the problems. Then the tape was used to even cover the grip as the stock grip got slippery. Hobbling around is a pain, so to speak, but the comfort and convenience of the Silicone Flex Tape helped in the long run. YRMV