Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Banger Water Pump

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by panhead_pete, Aug 9, 2022.

  1. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Been loving driving my 31 Banger powered coupe and went for a nice leasurely drive today and noticed a new to me noise. Got out to investigate and its the water pump/fan shaft. There is quite a bit of end play. I noticed the shaft may have needed greasing so did that with some effect but the end play and noise is still there. It sounds worse in the video than real life but am guessing it shouldnt be like this. There is no apparent leaks so I guess that's a plus. Do I need to repack this or am I needing to look further. Thanks.

     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2022
  2. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 3,368

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    Mine started doing that and I just bought a brand new leakless pump as I didn't want to flying into the radiator
     
    Stogy, alanp561 and ClarkH like this.
  3. 62pan
    Joined: Jun 8, 2008
    Posts: 911

    62pan
    Member

    They make a collar that you can put on the shaft to keep it from doing that. Most of the suppliers have them.
     
    Stogy, winduptoy and alanp561 like this.
  4. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,339

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, a bearing collar will fix that right up. A bearing house should have them. If memory serves you'll need a 3/4" split collar.
     
    Stogy and alanp561 like this.
  5. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks all!

    Cheers was thinking I would just do that but none of the normal vendors have them in stock.

    Cheers I see them advertised, any guidance on fitting them thanks? Do you push the shaft all the way back in its movement towards the engine when fitting it or towards that radiator?

    Screenshot (292).png

    Cheers, Will have to see if I can find one here.
     
    Stogy and alanp561 like this.
  6. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,351

    rusty valley
    Member

    Really what you need is to fix it proper with the new leakless kit . They come with a stainless shaft modern seals and the collar to control end play. The collar will save you for now, but next time you order from the states get the water pump kit.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  7. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree just none in stock with the vendors and they are $300 on eBay...
     
    Stogy likes this.
  8. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 886

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Wouldn't one of these go on with less fuss?

    Climax Metal 2C-075 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 3/4" Bore Size, 1-1/2" OD, With 1/4-28 x 5/8 Set Screw https://a.co/d/b3bk18b
     
  9. First thing you want to do is piss that fan off, get a 4 blade fan, the 2 blade are known to crack and fly to peices, you don’t want your body or anyone else’s for that matter in its flight path. Plenty of info about that happening.
     
    Stogy, panhead_pete and alanp561 like this.
  10. Steves46
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 568

    Steves46
    Member
    from Florida

    Mine started doing the same followed shortly after with leaks. Also replaced with a leakless pump. Good so far.
     
    Stogy, panhead_pete and alanp561 like this.
  11. Steves46
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 568

    Steves46
    Member
    from Florida

    The original 2 blade fans were prone to cracking however the new aluminum 2 blade fans are John Wayne tough. I have heard of no cracking incidents with them as well.
     
    Stogy, panhead_pete, dmar836 and 5 others like this.
  12. I have heard that, but Pete’s looks like an old tin one.
     
    Stogy and panhead_pete like this.
  13. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 4,182

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Build your own leakless and save some bucks
    I run a modern cast two blade fan on all my A's
    The screen shot is from the Snyders catalogue

    [​IMG]
    BR*** LEAKLESS WATER PUMP REBUILD KIT
    Part # A-8591-SB | Model Year 28-29
    Water pump rebuilt kit includes:

    A-8554 flat bearing washers, A-8542 bearing felt, A-8540-A cup washers, A-8535 front bearing sleeve, A-8530 front bearing, A-8513-A thrust washer, A-8512-BR sealed rear cartridge, A-8510-SSL long style stainless shaft, A-8501-IM cut impeller, A-8507 pump mounting gasket, and A-8510-MS fan mounting set.

    Measure the I.D. of your pump where the rear bushing goes in, it must measure 1.015/1.016" in order to use this kit. Br*** rear cartridge for 1928-29

    With this kit, you'll have to grease the front bearing but the rear cartridge does not require greasing.


    $56.00 KIT
    Additional Information
    [​IMG]
    STAINLESS LEAKLESS WATER PUMP REBUILD KIT
    Part # A-8591-SSZ | Model Year 30-31
    Water pump rebuilt kit includes:

    A-8554 flat bearing washers, A-8542 bearing felt, A-8540-A cup washers, A-8535 front bearing sleeve, A-8530 front bearing, A-8513-A thrust washer, A-8512-ZR sealed rear cartridge, A-8510-SSL long style stainless shaft, A-8501-IM cut impeller, A-8507 pump mounting gasket, and A-8510-MS fan mounting set.

    Measure the I.D. of your pump where the rear bushing goes in, it must measure 1.015/1.016" in order to use this kit. Zinc rear cartridge for 1930-31

    With this kit, you'll have to grease the front bearing but the rear cartridge does not require greasing.


    $56.00 KIT
    Additional Information
     
    Stogy, panhead_pete, burl and 3 others like this.
  14. Steves46
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 568

    Steves46
    Member
    from Florida

    Yep. Those tin ones are only good for wall art.
     
    Stogy and panhead_pete like this.
  15. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks all. As @rwrj suggested I have fitted a split collar (16mm) and set the end play at .007. Its an interim fix as Im not really comfortable with the collar riding against the pack nut. Whilst I was doing that checked the fan and its aluminium but does have some play in it too. Will order a dissasembled leakless pump fro Brattons (Link below) or water pump rebuild kit (Leakless) thanks @winduptoy and probably a fan whilst Im there as freight will be the biggest expense.
    https://www.brattons.com/30-31-LEAKLESS-SHOW-WATER-PUMP-KIT/productinfo/12220/

    298770864_3178000015785568_8019220444957650360_n.jpg 298621997_730293101391652_7283908264732674463_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2022
    2Blue2, winduptoy and Stogy like this.
  16. Ducbsa
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 105

    Ducbsa
    Member
    from Virginia

    When I rebuilt my A water pump, I put the collar on the left side of the shaft.
     
    panhead_pete and Hotrodmyk like this.
  17. trikejunkie
    Joined: Dec 2, 2011
    Posts: 241

    trikejunkie
    Member
    from Scotland

    I just looked at the picture and that was my first thought-it is meant to stop the fan going FORWARD into the radiator is it not? The way it is it isn`t gonna stop that .
     
  18. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    To be honest I wasnt sure where to place it and couldnt see any pics elsewhere where is should go. Travel is currently limited to 0.07 in either direction.. I've read elsewhere there is a risk of the water pump migrating back into the head damaging it??
     
    trikejunkie and Stogy like this.
  19. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 911

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not trying to hijack Pete's post, but how do you tell the difference visually? Or do you just try to stick a magnet to it? I've never paid much attention to the two blade fan on my roadster.
     
    winduptoy, panhead_pete and Stogy like this.
  20. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 27,221

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You need 2 then...it's all about balance eh!!...
     
  21. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,725

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @Zax I used a magnet to check mine.
     
    winduptoy and Stogy like this.
  22. 6F0D60C4-0BC3-4572-AD94-58788C6E4FA2.jpeg D7CC5A84-58C1-4C6C-A200-5CABAA3FC84E.jpeg 73E5ACF8-EFF7-4A25-9ADF-33757B4C2D75.jpeg You can see the seam where the sheet metal was welded/brazed or whatever starting to separate plus the spot welds where the tin was attached to the hub.
    I brought this being a newbie to bangers years ago and could of ended up a **** story.
    This one was just waiting to cause a minor or major mishap, now a wall hanger for reference.
     
  23. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 4,182

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMG_20220814_081240209.jpg Actually the stock head has an internal casting for the fan/impeller shaft to ride against IMG_20220814_082321685_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20220814_082311995.jpg there is a washer that is placed between the impeller and the back of the seal cartridge that is supposed to space the shaft against the casting in the head. If you look at the rebuild kit, there are additional shim washers to compensate for the wear in the head. The 'water pump grease' that is introduced into the back zerk is supposed to lube that surface and why it has a screw cap on it from Henry
    If the clearances are set up, it will eliminate the need for a thrust collar on the shaft. If you have an aftermarket head, it likely doesn't have the internal casting for the shaft to ride on and then shaft collar will be needed to compensate
    Good luck
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2022
    trikejunkie and panhead_pete like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.