Hot Rods What's the point? Pertronix ignition...

There's one on the coil. That's mounted on top of the intake as per original. And the decal is under the clamp. So, yes, I'm running the decal. And no, you can't see it. But, it runs like a striped ape, and that's what's important.

 

I had a lot of point bounce (dual points) at high RPMs with my 375 HP (Rochester FI) 327. I used only high quality Delco or Blue Streak point sets. Pertronix eliminated that 30 years ago and it still runs great.

 

Well, it ****s to be you, doesn't it?

 

You guys just don't comprehend sarcasm when you read it, do you?

 

Yes, letting the car die with the ignition system still 'on' is a sure-fire (pun intended...LOL) way to kill an electronic ignition. The 'better' ones have an automatic shut-off feature that disconnects power if it doesn't sense ignition pulses for a certain amount of time to prevent this, then reconnects when it does. The cheaper Pertronix units don't have this, if you step up to one of their higher-priced units it's an included feature.

Personally, I'm a fully sold Ford Duraspark distributor/MSD box user. More robust components as they don't need to be miniaturized to fit under the cap, have automatic shut-off, and they don't require 'special' coils except under extreme conditions. Dead-nuts reliable, and if you hide the box it looks like an OEM ignition except for a few extra wires.

 

Leave that ignition on again with your points closed...and you may end up with a coil like this:

 

I used pertronix in the Mallory for my Flathead- one thing I learned was after installing the unit, I had to rotate the dizzy about 10 degrees to get back to the same timing I had with the points installed. Not sure why but there was a difference so make sure to reset your timing! And also use resistor core wire (not solid core) as mentioned above.

 

Good for you.
One of the "secrets" is using resistor plug wires instead of solid core. There IS a reason all manufactures use electronic, in my opinion.
Next, ditch the carburetor. Just don't tell anyone. Mums the word.

 

That happened to a friend and the coil was mounted on the inside of the fire wall. I’m guessing it went off with a bang, oil everywhere.

 

Well, Ronnie, they failed 3 times in my Plymouth, and after the second 2 when I had taken the whole ****aree down to the factory where they couldn't let me see them test them (insurance, you know), they replaced all their components saying there was nothing wrong with the pieces I brought down. The third time, I lost faith and gave up on them. Your results may vary (and did!).

 

How do you check for alternators leaking AC, can they be shielded somehow??

 

If you have a good digital multimeter (Fluke), you can set it on AC voltage and take a reading on the output of the alternator. It should read nearly zero. If it is leaking AC, it will still read DC voltage and appear to be doing its job....and it is, but it will kill solid state components.

 

Alternators produce AC, so there's no way to 'shield' them. The internal diodes convert the AC to DC, it's possible to have a partially failing diode that will 'leak' AC through. This will show up two ways; if you have a voltmeter installed, voltage output will drop, but may not be particularly noticeable. An ammeter won't show this. Second, if you check voltage output with a multimeter, switch your meter to 'AC Volts'. If you have leakage, the meter will read a voltage value.

 

I finally bit the bullet and put a Pertronix in the distributor for my Cad 390. Mainly due to the difficulty in getting good condensers now. But... I installed the correct wires and coil for the unit, added a ground wire to the distributor, and carry a spare module and coil.

 

No, it really doesn't. The LUV was a company truck, so I didn't get stuck with it. I drove the '55 Dodge to college for two years, and then installed the good running 270 Hemi in my first "T" bucket where it soldiered on for several more years. The '60 Dodge? Well, I drove that for a couple ofyears as well and sold it for $200.

Actually, I've always enjoyed being me.

Everybody loves their new stuff until it goes to hell.

 

Confused! This has WHAT to do with Pertronix?

Ben

 

I have never had a failure.
Sure makes like easier

 

@flynbrian48 , The pot you stir, young Jedi.

 

HEI’s are mentioned here all the time and i never see the same reaction as the pertronix gets. HEI modules are prone to failure unless you’re lucky enough to have a real GM unit. I wouldn’t be to confident in finding one at a parts house anymore, they haven’t been used (by GM) since the 80’s.

 

I have had good luck with PERTRONIX & LUV / PUP trucks but maybe I am just a lucky guy

 

Everything electrical as well as mechanical will fail at some point, it's just a matter of when. The quality of manufacturing and quality of the parts used will be the deciding factor. Human error is also part of the equation, as well as human greed. The OEM's make parts to a certain standard to last a certain time because they want repeat customers. Aftermarket varies, some want repeat customers, others want the quick sell, usually based on price. You have to wade through the jungle and figure out what works best for you.

 

I´m running both points and pertronix on different cars, none has failed me yet... I must do something wrong

 

I had that happen in my Chris Craft. Left the key on, came back to it the next day and the coil had EXPLODED. Stupidity and carelessness don't care whether you have them "new fangled" breaker less ignitions or points and condenser. Burnt up is burnt up.

And, as someone pointed out to me in a private message about this thread, the whole point is to build a car that we DON'T have to work on by the side of the road. Can't get a Pertronix at the local Auto Zone? Try getting a set of dual points and condenser for a '52 DeSoto off the shelf. You guys...

 

Like I said, building a car I don't have to repair by the roadside is my goal. And, I built it for me, not for you. Or anyone. Run points if you prefer, fine with me, please stop telling me I'm wrong for making my choice, for my reason. Additionaly, if I DO have a problem, it's no harder, and certainly less h***le, to replace that module (which can also be purchased ahead of time) than it is to put points in, and adjust them in the dark by the side of the road. This thread wasn't intended to stir up argument, but for me to congratulate myself for getting an engine that hadn't been run in 20 years running (great) and driving, but good for all you guys who want to rain on my parade. Sheesh...

 

Brian, for some reason the subject of Pertronix just brings out the worst in some folks. It's kind of strange, but it happens frequently around here. All you have to do is mention "Pertronix" and they come out of the woodwork. Same guys every time.

 

You are as traditional as they come @flynbrian48 . You build everything yourself, at home, to your standards and not the m***es and then drive the hell out them. Don't allow the nattering nabobs of negativity to rain on your roadster. You are in inspiration to a lot of us. I look forward to more installments.

 

Exactly Right............

Pertronix has been around a long time and even survived the godawful pandemic.......must be pretty good !