That is what I encountered one time. Easy to replace hoses when tank is removed. I have been using the fuel injection hose with no problems instead of ordinary fuel hose. Just my 2 cents worth
I may have figured it out (hopefully). The vent in the tank accepts a small 1/4" hose. After fiddling a little I noticed that when I blew a few shots of air into the pickup, suddenly fuel would rush out of the pickup all over my hands (and the handy rag I had there). I figured that the air I blew in was pressurizing the tank and then the pressure blew fuel back at me. Wondering why the vent didn't just compensate for the air I blew in, I thought that maybe the vent was not adequate size to actually vent the tank effectively, hence starving the fuel pump. I also blew air into the vent and it is not blocked. "How to solve this problem". I called Tanks, Inc. and they supplied me with a different filler pipe for the tank that has a 5/16" hose bib for venting built into it. Installed it yesterday. Took the Hot Rod out for an hour and a half cruise today in the heat to check it out. Ran flawlessly. The additional venting appears to have solved the problem. Time will tell. Taking it to the Hagerty Cars and Coffee cruise-in at the Virginia Festival of the Wheel car show tomorrow in Charlottesville...with the wife in the car!!! Leaving at 6:00 am to get there in time. Praying it performs just as well for the hour and a half cruise there and back. It's hard enough getting her into the car with me. It'll be even harder if we get stuck. Pray for me guys! The wife is truly awesome but she probably wouldn't be too happy with us getting stuck. Lol Andy
I had a similar problem with my 37 caddy,i had the tank off to have it coated inside with the epoxy solution,that part went well,but when i installed the guage i used the "orange" silicone for a seal around the screws?,it has left me stranded 4 times so far,there must have been a drop of silicone on the ends of the screws that have been floating around the tank,every once in a while one gets sucked up in the line and makes it all the way to the pump on the motor and it starves for fuel and quits.The gas makes them swell up big,after they dry out they shrink to about 1/8 inch little balls.Might be something to look at in your tank. harvey
Budget36...no. The cap is NOT vented and Tanks, Inc. does not have a vented cap for the filler tube. Harvey. I do NOT use any type of "silicone" or RTV sealers because they all create problems like this. I use fuel compatible sealer only for the gaskets on gas tank filler tubes and senders (specific to fuel applications). Had a friend tell me that his son's race car engine blew up due to lost oil pressure during a pass. I asked him if he used RTV when assembling. He responded that he did. Next week I saw him and they found a piece of that shit during disassembly somewhere that caused the problem. I use Permatex thread sealer with teflon on those screws (and on the screws for the filler tube). Brush it on sparingly. Works great and is fuel compatible. Update: Went to the above mentioned cars and coffee event with wifey in the car. Ran flawlessly on the hour and a half there. Took the scenic route home (got lost a little) and took 2 hours to get home. Ran flawlessly. I'm pretty sure this problem has been licked by adding the additional venting. Andy
Welp...got stuck ten minutes from home the other day. Same symptoms. Took the fuel sender out of the tank to take a look-see inside. Spotlessly clean. Even pumped most of the fuel out of the tank using the electric pump out of the hole for the sender. Pumped flawlessly ten gallons out and five gallons back in with gas can on the floor of garage. Hooked everything back up and pump would not suck fuel from the pickup until I started the engine. Pickup is clear. Blew air into tank through pickup. Good bubbles. At my wits end. Today's fix...change the fuel filter to after the pump in vertical position vs. between pump and tank in horizontal position Andy
Check all the rubber hoses for internal flappers, usually made by shoving onto a metal line that has been hacksaw cut......I bought a 55 Chevy once for $25 (you read that right, $25) that would only run a block or two before dying.....got it home and the short piece of hose from the metal line going from the pump to the carb had a short, about 4" long rubber hose...pulled it off and the original metal line had been cut with a hacksaw and when he pushed on the hose it created a flap in the hose....when the engine died the pressure would slowly bleed by the hose flap and partially fill the float bowl, start the car, and as soon as the pump started pumping fuel the pressure would lift the flap and plug the line......that car cost me about $25.50 and we drove it as a family car for about 5 years, basically trouble free........true story!
5 Years... Ya got 5 years out of an aux. fuel pump and you're wondering what the problem could be? I'm going to suggest yours is failing and needs replacement. The works and then doesn't work thing... failing. Then again, most of the advice I've been given came from reading hotrod magazines and they didn't advocate an electric pusher pump with a filter and a stock pump. That's like saying to the old guy with a heart condition, I'm strapping this water barrel to your back in case you get thirsty on the long walk.
^^^ NoelC. You misread the post. Auxiliary pump was JUST installed. Been running on the stock mechanical pump for five years PRIOR to install of the auxiliary electric pump. Less than 6000 miles on the stock pump which is working fine. Ron Brown. Thanks for the input. All rubber lines have been checked for such problems. The auxiliary pump is now connected to the tank outlet by a 12" piece of hose. It is level with the top of the tank. The position of the pump should not matter as much as you think. I pumped five gallons of fuel from a gas can on the floor into the top of the tank just the other day so... It appears that putting the filter AFTER the auxiliary pump and in a vertical position has solved the problem (THIS time. Lol). I switched out my metal 5/16" inline filter to a clear plastic one so I could SEE if the filter was filling with fuel. The ONLY advantage those cheap things have. I hate them but I wanted to see. Previously, when it was between the pump and the tank and horizontal it was not filling with fuel. It was only having a little fuel in it and fuel was not visibly going into the filter at an acceptable rate, barely dribbling in. Now that it's installed after the pump and vertical, it fills entirely and fuel is filling the filter at a good rate. Apparently, neither the stock mechanical or the electric pump liked having to pull fuel past the air gap in an empty fuel filter. The auxiliary pump by the tank apparently prefers being connected directly to the tank and PUSHING fuel into the filter. Took it out for 2 long drives since reconfiguring it. One for an hour, another for an hour and a half. No issues and engine actually seems to run better (smoother) than it ever has. I never had this problem before with a vintage vehicle, but then I was thinking about it and on every other vintage vehicle I've had, the filter has always been AFTER the pump. I only put it before the pump (by the tank) on this build because it made sense regarding location and gave a cleaner look to the fuel delivery lines at the carbs. BTW...the auxiliary pump is the Facet pump rated at 1.5-4 lbs. that many of the flathead guys use as an auxiliary pump. I bought that one because so many of the flatty guys on this forum mentioned it in posts related to fuel issues. Keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is finally solved. Road trip to TROG in under two weeks. Basic maintenance before that and I'll be on my way as long as the weather forecast is good. Andy
Welp...issue still not solved. I took it out for another long drive and the same issue. Auxiliary electric pump by the tank starts banging hard. I pull over before it stalls and check fuel pressure gauge. It's at zero. Pop the trunk and the fuel filter by the tank is empty. Shut engine. Disconnect fuel line and blow into it back into the tank. Get met with resistance and then...bubbles like I blew something out of the pickup tube. Figured there HAS to be some kind of foreign body in the tank that is randomly blocking the fuel pickup as it is just a tube end with no filter sock on it. Had a brilliant idea. The sender in my '54 Chevy pickup also does double duty as a fuel pickup and there's a sock type screen on the end of the tube. Ordered one up and installed it. Took for a long drive and all seems okay...so far. Only problem is now my gas gauge doesn't work as the sender resistance does not match the gauge. I tried to test the sender but it just pegs to zero resistance. It is listed as being a "30 ohm" sender in the catalog but I have no idea what that means since no range of impedance is listed. Any ideas on how to get the gauge to work again other than using a '54 Chevy pickup gauge? Currently, I'm using 2 1/8" Stewart Warner gauges and the fuel gauge was matched to their sender which is now out of the tank. Andy
Your pump is too high. The suction should be located at the bottom of the tank so that there is always a pressure head of fuel at the pump suction.
Found this from another forum to fix the gas gauge issue. Pretty neat little idea. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...dq4d3_l-nw_UR0MjwkcHFvCTevMSjpMUaAowaEALw_wcB
Just a question did you happen to by pass the original fuel pump and run a straight line to the carb from the electric pump ( just to try) The original pump has one way check valves in it.
The fuel cells I,ve always uses have a foam type material that is in the tank to prevent gas from splashing back & forth in turns etc; has a chunk broke loose. Does you tank have this product in your tank? Many tanks do.. Gene
^^^That is true for fuel cells but not any "tanks" I have seen. This tank does not have it. Another long drive and the new fuel pickup with the sock filter on it seems to be doing the trick. Running out great so far with no issues. Andy
I can't figure out as to where the auxiliary electric fuel pump is positioned, tank or on the rail. There are certain rules to follow using either a main or primer electric fuel pump with a mechanical pump. If the helper is mounted inline before the mechanical, it has to have a filter before it (electric). Just the smallest particle of junk can cause failure. Now if you do that, a mechanical pump is designed to draw. If the electric pump flow-thru rating is negligible and/or there is a fuel filter on the draw side, most likely the mechanical pump will fail due to vapor lock and/or ethanol blend separation (ethanol based gasoline). The electric pump/filter needs to be plumbed on a by-pass circuit.
Quite true. However, the one way check valves allow fuel to flow from the tank to the carb (i.e. the way the electric pump is pushing the fuel), so will offer minimal restriction to the flow from the electric fuel pump.
I guess they could get stuck, but they are flat discs sealing against a thin circle, so less likely to get stuck than say a carb inlet valve.
Problem solved once and for all. I installed a combination fuel gauge sender/fuel pickup tube for a '54 Chevy 1/2 ton truck in the sender position of the tank. A few mounting holes needed to be gently elongated in order to position it properly for the swing of the float. The advantage of this new sender/pickup is that it has a sock-type filter on the open end of it which would prevent any foreign objects from entering and blocking the pickup tube in the tank. Took two hour long shake-down rides in the coupe and then took it 3 1/2 hours away to the Vintage Eliminator drags in PA a couple weeks ago, ran it on the track and drove it 3 1/2 hours back home. All went without a hitch. Link to the post on the road trip below. Andy https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...f-a-vintage-hot-rod-racing-road-trip.1278416/
I've had the cellulose (yellow paper) elements "seal-up" on me, they look perfect, but gas won't go through them. don't assume the filter is good because it looks clean.
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