Can anyone recommend a good headlight switch I can use in my Model A? I think they're just Guide headlights (with halogen lamps). I found some on Amazon with good ratings but some reviews that were less than stellar. The headlight switch in my Coupe got hot tonight- gauge lamps didn't work and when I twisted the knob to light or dim them they just didn't work at all and there was very little resistance. I'm almost positive that the rheostat is heating up in there. The knob was 107* by my laser thermometer. Now, it's KIND of been ****py since I got the car a year ago- you'd have to spin it a few times to get the gauges to light up and then there were light and dark spots, so it wouldn't surprise me if the switch is just in need of replacement. Thanks in advance.
Wire relays in the circuit. The switch powers the relays and the relays power the lights. It takes the heavy load off the switch.
Might help to know what kind of switch you have now. Since it has a headlight dimmer, it's probably made for some specific type of car, and has a knob that will only fit switches of that type? Details sure help....pictures... and once we know what it is, we can start searching for NOS switches of that type, on ebay, so you get an old one that's well made, vs the new **** that's available. oh...you can't use a relay for dimmable dash lights. Don't work that way.
I like the switch from so-cal speed shop. It is a three position switch, park lights, low beam, high beam. No need for a dimmer switch
[QUOTE oh...you can't use a relay for dimmable dash lights. Don't work that way.[/QUOTE] Dash lights dimmer and headlights are two different circuits in the switch. If he has the headlights hooked to the dimmer, that's the problem.
The headlights do (did) not dim, just the gauge lights. I know no specifics on the original application switch but here are a couple photos…
looks like a 1960s-70s GM type light switch. Might want to take it out and see if it looks like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/165593372453? I expect you know about the ****on that's on the steel plate on the switch, which you press to be able to remove the knob, so you can remove the nut holding the switch in?
I use a MOPAR headlight switch because it is just a bit smaller than a GM one and I need all the space I can get.
I bought a GM switch replay from Napa. It's marked made in USA. A better choice might be NOS. The push on connectors seen in the photos may be a problem. At least uninstall, then reinstall each connector to see if that improves the connection.
Cole Hersee made one used on busses that was a 4 position. The 4th position was to turn the high beams on.
There are plenty of NOS OEM headlight switches available cheap on eBay. OEM units are typically built to last, whereas aftermarket units, especially modern units are built generally by the lowest bidder. I buy them locally at swapmeets, picked up an nice NOS Made in America unit for $5 at the last Turlock swap.
Like Jim/Squirrel mention GM type. Your wires appear to not have been over heated. How long have you had this set up and what exactly is all connected to the rheostat terminal bulb wise?
Thanks to all. I have had the car for a year, almost. There are 6 gauge lights- SW wings. 4@ 2 1/16 and 2 of the larger 3 3/8. I really think the old rheostat was trashed. It used to be “gritty” when I wold turn it and it wouldn’t go dim to bright as you turned it to the right or left…it would intermittently dim, brighten or go dark as the knob was turned. I probably just smelled dashboard paint heating up. Let’s say I want one quick- junkyard? The local speed shop recommended O’Reillys or NAPA. Not a great idea, it sounds?
Like the one in post 4. Only draw back is no dim for the dash lights. Think Painless has one similar with the dim.
Junkyard try a 70s 80s gm with the normal pull knob type switch. Or get one from the local parts store. Bring in old one to compare
View attachment 5494591 [/QUOTE] I used a switch like the one pictured in my '36 build. It worked well until it didn't in the middle of a sweeping, highway curve late at night. I replaced it with the GM type switch from Ron Francis. Gary
The Rheostat on that style of switch is a resistor that does get hot. It controls the bright/dim of the dash lights by turning the knob and changing the resistance. It is only for dash lights but usually will turn the interior light on if you turn the knob all the way one way and the interior light is hooked to it. I'm pretty sure that that switch is the same as the one for my 77 Chevy 1 ton that fits a **** ton of GM products. You can get a Standard Igniton switch at O'Reillys for about 29 bucks or a Delco for 10 more. My experience on my 71 GMC that takes the same switch is that if you run Halogen headights you want to run relays for the headlights to save the headlight and dimmer switch. That is the dimmer switch that you operate with your foot unless you have one of those ugly columns with a built in dimmer switch. I burne out three floor dimmer switches and one headlight switch on the 71 before I put in relays for the headlights up on the inside of the core support.
OUCH! That was the BETTER looking knob option at that site! (But I agree 100%) I would be reusing my knob. In the interest of being able to drive it again- if MY switch is 7 terminal switch but the new one is an 8 terminal, do I just leave the extra one empty or would it need to be jumpered to something else?
Might help to see pictures of the connector side of the switches. Some of them have a jumper tab between two terminals. I don't know the details, though....
Thanks to all...This is what I found when I took the switch out today. I went to O'Reilly's and they didn't have the AC/Delco one in stock so I got the next best one, and it seems to be working. The more I think about it- the old switch's rheostat was probably garbage since I have owned the car (about a year). The gauge lights actually dim and brighten now depending on the direction I turn the knob! It was easy enough to replace that I may grab a spare and keep it in the trunk. Thanks again.
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