Hot Rods Technical Electrical Issue on Ignition Circuit

No truer words were ever spoken....

 

I didn't reaize that he took the photo from the top . my bad there and I deleated the ne I doodled on.

 

Don't use the "T" series of Standard Ignition products, that's their cheap brand. Hit eBay and find an old 90's made in the USA one.

 

Well well well... just back from the parts store. If confession is good for the soul, today is my lucky day.

The battery- which he pointed out was 8 years old - was fully charged. However, only 8 cold cranking amps out of 665!

Completely shot.

But in my defense I can't tell you how many of my car buddies who are very experienced mechanics have told me they weren't aware- and I certainly was not- that a battery can have a full charge and no capacity to carry a load.

So, time to invest in a good battery tester. And before installing the new battery, time to clean up all the grounds and connections.

And the parts store did point out the benefit of keeping a trickle charger on a battery, hence the years I got out of the old one that only had a 2 year warrantee.

Thanks for the help here guys.

 

There was a recent thread that mentioned that very thing. 12 volts and no cranking amps. It was referred to as a surface charge.

 

Look for an old Sun Vat 40, just make sure the load knob works and the amp gauge.

 

Buzzing Ford solenoids are almost a low voltage issue low battery or a resistance issue. solenoid engages voltage drop and solenid falls out and keeps repeating that is the buzzing noise.

 

As for maintaining the battery, I wouldn't use a trickle charger. Use a good battery tender that will just charge when the battery drops below a particular voltage to maintain a full charge and voltage. A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs to be charged.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...etween+a+battery+tender+and+a+trickle+charger

 

Hey Pete,
Sorry you're having troubles.
The lead plates in a battery build up gunk on their surface over time (8 years is a good run) and that slows down the flow of voltavos ( advanced technical term). Way back, someone described it to me as being like a 5 gallon bucket of water. Over time, gunk builds up in the bottom of the bucket. Looking at the bucket, it looks full, but it actually only has a quart or 2 of water.

Voltage is the speed that the little electrons run down the wire. Current (Amps) is how many electrons are in the group. Kind of makes sense when you think about why battery and starter cables are bigger. They have room for lots of little electrons to get to the "work site" in a hurry.

 

I am using the Deltron unit. I believe it is both a trickle charger and a "smart" maintainer.

Is there a better choice?

 

One of these is what I use:



Is there a better choice? Please advise.

 

Scott, my learning curve is pretty steep here, but fortunately there are many sources of guidance. A simple multi-meter is my new friend!

I need to have you over and give me a tutorial. Electrical systems for many of us seem to be voodoo and black magic wrapped in a mystery.

The good news is that a new battery plus a thorough cleaning of all the connections and grounds did the trick. The truck fired right up!

 

That is the brand tender I also use for my car. It was recommended when I bought a Vette that will sit over the winter months. That is the car that will have a draw while it sits. I find it works fine. The Hardtop has no draw and I've never had an issue with it siting over the winter.