Technical How do you "clock" plumbing fittings?

I am having problems figuring out how to properly "clock" (e.g., rotate to the correct position) plumbing fittings so that they are aligned in the correct direction. The fittings haven't been a problem on the tubing, but I can't seem to get threaded plumbing fittings going into something else properly aligned with where the tubing needs to go, particularly NPT threaded fittings. I am currently having problems aligning the threaded fittings on my in-tank fuel pump and also the transmission cooler in the correct direction. It seems that if I get them as tight as they need to be, they are many degrees off from being aligned to where they need to go. If I get them aligned in the proper direction, they are either too loose to seal properly or so tight that they split the fitting. Does anyone have any tricks/secrets to allow proper alignment of fittings? I have thought about adding thin washers, but was concerned about them sealing properly. The other option would be to buy a bunch of fittings and pick through them until I find one that has the threads aligned in the desired direction, but that can get expensive quickly with the A/N fittings.
Thanks,

 

Teflon tape?

 

On iron pipe thread you can use a little extra tape or use paste (not dope) and muscle it if it’s close. If it’s aluminum that gets hard, because of striping or cracking. If you really have to clock it maybe consider a different fitting type, like jic or sae.

 

If you're doing AN fittings, use a straight fitting where it threads into the device you're plumbing, and use an angled fitting on the hose end. Then you can easily line everything up how it needs to be.

 

Are you building an AMBR or Ridler contender? If not fuck that. you are striving for a fake goal. These are mechanical things, they should look like it.

If it really means that much to you, you need to make your own NPT tapered fittings, clocking is done by making the taper deeper OR shallower so the threads will seal. Way to much work unless you are striving for show points

 

Chase the female threads with a pipe tap....

 

Longer pipe wrench = more leverage.

 

J-B Weld that fucker wherever you want it!! Just kidding......

 

You can do this but, do it in small increments and test fit each time until you get the right position. It doesn't take much cutting to get a fair amount of rotation.

 

Maybe he just needs to clock the fitting to clear a valve cover, thermostat housing, etc.

 

Multiple methods are required , It depends on the situation in which method to be used,
Sometime adding thread tape or less,
Is some situation red Loctite, or paste.
& having Pipe tapped & dies ,
Some time you will just need the Tap
1/2 to 1 turn @ time deeper ,
& if die needed same 1/2 to 1 turn @ time up the treads,
( pipe in a wedge tapper tread)
Keep track notes to know how many degrees change in each 1/2 to 1 turn,
The more you do the better you will get.

Counting threads/ pre assemble fitting,
Make reference marks on fittings in what we call
In the Field Service settings,
A/N , JIC , PTFE fittings so yr
20, 45,90,120 ext finish @ angle you wanted .

Detailed require Time & patients

 

All the above plus maybe try a number of fittings. One might clock just right.

 

Over tightening tapered pipe fittings to clock them is a good way of splitting female fittings . better to use appropriate swivel fittings ,unions , etc instead .

 

Could you take a few wide angle pics of what you are trying to do? There might be a better/different way to go about it.

 

Whether you are trying to clock the fittings to gain clearance or because you take pride in your work and want it to look well done, I applaud you for trying to do things well.
Especially when working in the engine compartment, sloppy looking work reflects on the ability of the builder.
You can get adapters to go from NPT to AN if your fuel pump (etc) has an NPT already. I think you will find it much easier to get what you want/need by working with the AN stuff. You can also buy JIC fittings which are essentially AN without the military spec and higher price. They are used on industrial equipment and high quality but somewhat cheaper. Don't do any of the teflon tape and sealer stuff. It often results in problems later on. Using a tap can work on NPT fittings but its kinda hit or miss.....trial and error. Better to get used to the AN/JIC stuff.

https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/jic-37-flare.html

 

This may be what Jim F was talking about. You only have to install the NPT fitting one time and you are done with it. A straight fitting in the port and then this swivel on the end, at any angle. I have used many of these in the past and they work great. Do not use any sealer on the threads; their job is not to seal. You also have the option of a 90 degree swivel hose end. I would highly recommend these options and only install the NPT adapter one time and leave it alone. And, as was stated previously, thread tape can work loose if you remove the fitting, and the tape always seems to find the smallest orifice in the system to plug up.

 

Get a pipe thread nut on the fitting with a O ring, turn to desired location and jam the nut down.
This is what Ford did on transmission cooler line fitting in the transmission case.

 

https://www.mfcp.com/our-blog/bid/41710/Hose-Fabrication-Installation-Tips

 

Those are available from cooler manufacturers. I was going to mention that but have little experience with them.
Hayden company offers them in common sizes. Might be worth a try as they are not real expensive.

 

The biggest problem I've been finding with npt female threads in new fuel pumps, filter housings and ball valves is that the offshore pipe threaders don't seem to know when to stop the tap. I've had to resort to soft brass washers, 0-rings and several other rube-goldberg fixes to prevent leaks. I don't remember aver having to do that until the last 4 or 5 years. Irritating at best.

 

This is not right. Not trying to be disrespectful. There is no such thing as an NPT nut. If there were, an o ring would not seal on a threaded surface. There are several styles of fittings that use o rings, but the receiver port needs to be specific to the fitting. No NPT use an o ring.
The best solution is to either tap the port (one full turn of the tap after contact will only get you deeper, so less than a turn will put you where you need to be.) or add a swivel adapter as shown in previous posts

 

How about banjo fittings? They're made to "clock" in any direction.
Mostly I've just seen pictures of them and I've never used them for anything myself. I'm just throwing the idea out there for those who may know to give 'em a thumbs up........ or thumbs down.

 

I've never seen banjo bolts with a tapered pipe thread....but other than that, it's a swell idea.

Actually I was talking about a hose end fitting that has an angle built into it, like these 90 degree fittings (other angles are available also). But the one you showed would work, too.

They're not as close as a 90 degree NPT fitting, which might be an issue, especially when attaching something to the top of a fuel tank, which sits under a floor, for example.

 

I have made a few ( pipe with banjo ) , But the average person is not going to have the equipment/tooling to make, Like Fella / OP asking how to clock fittings & spend 3-4 hrs making a fitting .
I have found different companies German and European that have some unique fittings used in aviation and other commercial uses rarely I seen ,
I have also found that some manufactures have different line of fittings more tighter radius & lighter , A few years ago I found a ( I Believe was a Eaton Aerospace cat ) that had some fittings 6 &8 s ptfe Very tight radius some short & longer & where 3x $ each ,

 

I coat NPT fitting with Loctite 545, and then turn them to where I want them.

I get them as tight as the clocking will allow, and the sealant does the rest.

 

The thing you have to consider first is that you are asking about a problem where your electric fuel pump and gasoline are factors. I wouldn't use any rube goldberg solution that may fail later and end up with gasoline spraying out of a connection and your car burning to the ground. Spend a little money to make the connections with parts that are designed for that purpose. Better safe than sorry............

It does happen!




Sorry to be so direct, but gasoline under pressure and spraying from a bad connection can really ruin your day. Two of the fires above occurred behind the engine compartment and you can bet leaking gas caused them. The third was probably a gas leak as well.

 

One thing I feel should be brought up, is to be sure with any connections, that you are using the correct fitting for the port. It is more and more common now to find O ring boss threads in fuel pumps/ filters/ regulators. I’ve seen to many times, people cramming a pipe fitting into an O ring port. From some of the replies, I suspect this to be the case. if you screw in a pipe fitting and it bottoms out on the port surface, you most likely are using the wrong fitting.
A good indicator is a spot faced surface. If there is a spot faced surface on the port, there will likely be an O ring relief taper before the threads. A pipe fitting generally is not spot faced, and has little to no taper for the threads.
Not trying to get down on anybody. I happen to work in an industry that deals with damn near every type of connection there is. I frequently am asked to identify port connections. I help guide seasoned mechanics every day.

 

do not tighten them till you can't turn them anymore stop were you want them when they are snug. several years ago a place I was working was getting plastic air brake valves for simi trailers. they have several lines going to them and coming out . they would not take much force to overtighten them & crack but did not leak .they had up to 120psi on them. I agree with locktite for sealer

 

Not looking for show points - I'm just trying to get the lines to point in the right direction.