With the Basic conversion work and the subsequent mods to the rear axle taken care of and all the little finishing off jobs out of the way it's time to sit back and let me tell you how it all went. It's not pretty.
Do you think that the rods became ****ed due to adapter issue and was playing havoc to the pistons and block as well?
No, Johnny, all the rod bearings were perfect. Other than the oil leak, The motor ran pretty well with the damaged crank. Now I can do things at a more leisurely pace, I can investigate properly. Thanks for watching.
Sounds good Mart. Just trying to rap my head around why so much smoke from the breather is all. Will look forward to the future report.
That's what I was thinking. The input shaft was too long and was pushing on the bearing in the flywheel. That's why the motor was slow to turn. The smoke was from the rearmost thrust face burning up under the intense pressure. The extra drag on the input shaft prevented the synchros from working properly. I goofed when I checked the length of the input shaft with the adaptor on. I didn't have it all clamped up tight enough. Thanks for thinking about it.
I like the diagnosis. I like all your videos Mart, but this series is the favorite. Glad it all works. BTW, it's driving me nuts, what is that pink **** at the bottom of the windshield on the driver A pillar?
My guess that is where the body cracked and was welded back together, then primed or painted. My '32 Fordor has been welded in the same places years ago and one side has cracked again. Am I right @Mart ? Dave
Good project Mart. Thanks for all the detailed videos. Hope you get the other engine sorted out so you can go back and break this years' time on the track.
Thanks for comments fellas. Re the pink ****. dwollam has it. The body wasn't badly rusted. It had some stress cracks however. I gas welded them up and put some primer on them. We used to get some finnegans primer that was a suede dark brown colour and I used to use that. When I did that job, though, all I could get was that lighter brown "pink ****". FWIW I don't like it either.
Thanks Mart. It’s kinda what I figured. I just can’t stop seeing it I still chuckle about “the bigger the blob the better the job” when I’m welding.
Would it be possible/worth it to turn down the thrust flange, re-weld it and then turn it to a precise thickness to minimize thrust tolerance? Certainly more affordable to just get a new crank, but would that solve the French flattie's wide thrust variance? I'm just amazed by your skills and knowledge.