Hi, I’d like your opinions about using the typical automotive paint products for a non automotive use but on an environment that gets wet, dry, hot , cold . The use is on a enameled steel bathtub where the enamel has chipped and the underlying steel is rusting due to water exposure. It seems that automotive paint would be perfect repair material since it’s designed to withstand a outdoor environment and can be mixed to match any color. In small quan***ies it can be brushed on , sanded and covered with clear coats. One issue may be adhesion to the existing enamel and exposed steel. Thanks !
Decades ago I paid to have a tub refinished. When it was done and curing it sure smelled like Imron to me.
Back in the 90s when I was in college I was tasked with refinishing an old solvent tank for the automotive program. We used standard automotive single stage paint. With the exception of a particular bonehead using it to wash a master cylinder, the paint was still intact when I last saw it,5 years ago.
If I was going to do a bath tub, I believe I would look into a boat/marina paint, its made for under water use.
A woman who owns an antique store here in northwest Arkansas has been refinishing vintage clawfoot tubs for a number of years using automotive paint products. They look great and she said they hold up well.
As long as the paint seal remains unbroken (scratches, dents, etc), the number one killer of paint is UV radiation. On a bath tub that will most likely be in a windowless environment, and never see any significant UV light again, I would think an automotive paint will work well. That said, I would get it stripped to bare steel through out. Adhesion with the old epoxy could prove troublesome.
Not that I think there aren't guys here who know their $h1t, but I would give a call to Tamco, a family run company since the mid 70's & ask for Bob Barney (owner & expert on paint with extensive knowledge on coating other than automotive) who runs the tech line. He is a really nice guy who is always willing to help! Tamco (757)627-9551 God bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
Thanks for all the helpful comments and suggestions. I just want to repair a few small areas and not recoat the entire tub. That Imron paint or marine paint sounds like just the ticket, my next challenge will be to purchase a pint or less .
I've done 1 bathtub and several bathroom wall tile projects with epoxy. Scuff it well to allow it to bite and spray it from a gun, it lays down well. Tile, s****e out old grout, Scuff it for bite and use a non sanded grout. Used several brands of epoxy, all 2K, (not rustoleum) they have all held up well. @arkiehotrods, interested to learn more, any info what paint is used ? Enamel, urethane etc. That would open up color choices, the epoxy is limited..... White or awful tan.
Are you a tamco rep ? 3 posts directing us to Tamco. I'm all about learning what's available. Show us the product line, start a thread, Is the base compatible with SPI clear?
My thoughts about the consumer grade products for fixing enamel on a tub is that because they are safe to use and non toxic , they probably are not as reliable and durable as the more toxic 2k materials where a respirator is required. A few years back, I paid a fella $200 to fix a quarter size chip in a white enamel steel tub. I didn’t watch him but I saw some of the material he carried in to do the job and it sure looked like automotive paint supplies. That chip was on the top edge where it doesn’t get wet very often and definitely not submerged. Now I’m considering if I couldn’t do a similar and effective repair around the drain if I had a matching base color and a suitable 2k clear-coat, in small quan***ies.
NO I am not, but I guess you could get that impression because of the group of posts so close together lol! I have been painting since the mid 80's & used PPG, then Dupont for decades, Tamco & now Orion's products just blow them out of the water & with both companies you can speak to the the owner or a member of their families when you call. I also received person phone numbers if I want to text with a question. Both companies websites : https://tamcopaint.com/ https://orionautomotivefinishes.com/ As for the SPI question....After you use a clear from either of these companies, you will NOT go back to it (IMHO). I am sure they are compatible though. My personal favorite clear is Tamco 2104 high solids which has much more solids content than anything the big 3 sell. God bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
Good feedback. I'll be shooting SPI clear in Oct, the first time using, on a blend job. Need to get it all prepped. I'm down to try Tamco, will be a while before I have an opportunity.
A few years back i "painted" the tub in the upstairs bathroom of my house,it was yellow and we wanted a white one,i bought a Kit i got someplace,it was Imron,i brushed it on,it looks like ****,but has held up not bad i guess.If i was doing it today i would replace the tub,we dont use it much anyway,its on the third floor and its too hard to go up the stairs to it anyway.If it is just a chip i would get some of the Testors paint they sell for plastic models and try that,it is pretty good stuff,it used to be anyway. Harvey
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