I has a empty QC house and a complete 36 rearend I know is ( or has ) been Ok working in a 36 roadster original car. Transmission will be a 39 box or I has a same toot Lincoln box ongoing ( I dont know if the Lincoln box get me shorter travell ) as I heard both. This QC house had a hurted end bearings repair and as I heard its common. One told me I might not even need to use the bearings there. Repair is awful done. Will I need lathe a new ring and get it proper weld ? Then can I use the 36 ring and piniong or what parts do I need to get - that can be bought new or old. This 32 coupe I build will not be a car for more than shorter city rides and no racing or hwy, it will has a FH and maybe Ardun heads on ( no SC ) -Ideas on this build up.
I have seen a lot worse repairs being run on circle track cars. As DRE mentioned, have it checked by a machine shop for alignment
How much is a new case, 5-6 hundred ? You won't get very far in a machine shop for that money these days. And you will still have a "wound repaired" unit, far less superior than a new one. I would consult The Hot Rod Works, for pricing, square shooters !
It's hard enough to be "out on the road" and need to repair a conventional rearend. I don't imagine finding someone to re-weld an aluminum (or magnesium) Halibrand case or find parts out there, won't be a fun outing, especially in your country.
Remind you, he is in Europe, and seems to have the money to fix a shelled flatty block AND buy Ardun heads.
I seen several Halibrands here and all was cracked there. This is was I found and I payed way over 2K for it. I can get it welded up and I can machine it. Several do told me this bearing is not really needed for normal use. If I wanted a new house I would get one but I like be era correct I run a machine shop in CNC, engine work and has been racing for 30 years so I hate old cracked parts, but if build up a late 40’s style hot-rod I has to deal with allot of expensive junk. Overhere in Sweden they told me this is what you get at 1-3K, you will not find a perfect one. Overall this can be fixed ( if needed ) as no crack in house or back plate. I seen several here backplate was cracked and they wanted 2-3K for them. Same as the Ardun heads, shore I can get a set of new as its common sense, but what do one get if going for a OEM set ( my bet more pricy and near junk ) so how can pricing be high ? Thats a hard nut to understand more than some is willing to pay. Same as a magneto angle adapter to a 59A, how much is thoose.. high pricing for shore.
I see what looks like a crack in the area they ground the flat. If so it is still broken. If the bore wasn't welded and machined concentric to the pinion bore it's going to be out of spec after the welding. A concern would be the repair breaking off chunks and doing more damage. I would use the taper roller pinion bearings and leave that pilot bearing out. The pinion has additional support at the rear cover. Nick
Yes, as I said real ’nasty’ work but I can remove it, lathe a ring, weld it, linebore it. Old expensive = JUNK, but tell me where get a a perefect 40’s style Halibrand house less 3K ? If so post me direct. ( I don’t like a new Winters ) -But thread was not about thst issue.
You have the right idea AND the skills. Fix it, add the bracing it needs and post pics. Love watching how hard you guys overseas work to do what we do here
I'd just fix that one. A replica, delivered, is about $2,000 USD, from Australia. You can move your parts into this case. You would need to do a little lathe work on the pinion. If you put it in, you will notice that the splined section sticks out past the spur gear housing. At the end of the housing, you would need to mark it, and then turn the remainder to fit in the bearing in the rear cover. It needs to be a medium press fit.
Not necessarily. Even a 3-axis CNC mill of decent sizer can knock this right out. My Haas UMC could. It has a linear accuracy of 0.0004/10", and an angular accuracy is +/- 15 arc. sec. Halibrand did not have this accuracy when that case was made. After bolting it to the table, and making sure that the front and rear surfaces are parallel (which the machine probe does), the probe then finds the center of the bearing hole. Whatever extended-length end mill that is the closest to the diameter of the bearing can then cut that hole to size. The hole is probably 1-1/8". An end mill close to that size will not deflect when cutting aluminum, at a reasonable feed and speed.
They are out-of-stock, with no ETA. I had a customer need, and ended up importing a reproduction one from Australia, for $1899, all in. It's brand-new, and perfect. With a little aging, it will look vintage. https://www.pacificquickchange.com.au/ If I could find cases for $500-600, I would buy every single one, broken, or not. I routinely find them, broken like this, for $2000.
Yes that's the situation. If I had a new frame, Brookville body, new front axle and 5 speed I could go Winters or a Kiwi QC. Much more easy and it can look old school - but I got on the ol’ Henry road and era correct parts. If machine it up, it will be as told above. I do need found parts as now I has a house ( cracked/welded ) and a working 36 rearaxle. I will tear the axle down, clean it and fix the house and then get back on this thread. Maybe Kivi can get parts or Speedway.
I made aa alignment tool and a couple of old bearings and it turned out well. OK for a mild flathead I would do it at least give it a try What can you lose? Some welding and smoothing.
I have fixed a lot worse bearing bores on helicopter transmissions. Build a new bearing bore ring slightly under size. Make a fixture to align it. Weld er up. Rebore bearing fit. ***emble and drive. @27TV8 showed you how to do it. Magnesium is weldable with proper training and equipment, but that QC is aluminum.
That thin area on the support housing has been called the "factory crack" on Halibrand 201's. Go ahead and fix it up. It may or not break again. The repaired area is already cracked. I'm not against having the support bearing but when the housing is broken I question whether the repair is any stronger than the original casting.
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