Technical Electrical Gremlin - No Power

I am really dumbfounded by this issue and hoping someone has a good tip. We have a ‘63 impala with a 327. The electrical system is stock except for a powermaster alternator. As we’re driving, at completely random intervals the car will completely lose power. It’s as if someone has turned off the key. There are no warning signs and when you hit the key there is absolutely zero power. To make it even more confusing, power comes right back usually within a minute. I’ve tested the battery and the powermaster with my multimeter and both seem fine. Is it a connection issue? A ground? The wiring is original and is already in line to be replaced but I’d like to know what specifically is causing this. Thanks!

 

May not be your problem but check the plugs that go through the firewall to feed power to everything. Had a 63 C10 that that would happen hit a good bump and the power went out it took a while to find the problem just a loose plug

 

Check all grounds from battery to frame . frame to body , body to engine ...Faulty ignition switch ??/

 

yep, loose connection some place in main system just start at battery to alternator to starter, etc

 

Do you have a bunch of keys or a heavy object on your key ring, could be a worn ignition switch

 

I would be looking into this first. Not hard to check when it happens. You may have to take a test light with you in the car so you can test the switch at the roadside.

By the way, 59 years of use can wear out an ignition switch regardless of how much weight is on the keyring.......
But @Wanderlust is correct. Keep it light.

 

Thanks I will check that

 

The ground wires are new, but the one from the alternator is mounted to the exhaust and seems a little ‘loose’. Can the heat from the manifold damage the ground wire? I suppose it could. Regarding the switch, a buddy told me he had a similar issue so he pulled the switch apart and found a bunch of carbon in it. I pulled my ignition switch out and it seemed cleaned. I put dielectric grease on it and reinstalled. I also tried wiggling the key with the engine running and didn’t notice any issues.

 

Nope, Just 3 keys. I removed, greased and reinstalled the switch but still seems to be happening.

 

Thanks! I think I will go ahead and replace the switch, its easy insurance.

 

First, when it's happening check to see if the horn or lights work, anything that doesn't use the ignition switch for power.

If those AREN'T working then you need to look at stuff that comes off the battery like cable connection (at the battery post and at the cable to post), the connection at the voltage regulator since that's where battery power goes into the car, the firewall connector and fuse panel.

If the lights/horn ARE working then you need to look at the voltage regulator connection, firewall connector, switch or fuse box.

You can either carry a test light and be quick with it OR make a tester. I've made a clamp on bracket test with a few different colored warning lights on it, long wires with insulated alligator clips on it. One side of all the lights goes to ground and the other side goes to key points in the system. All lights are on when working, drive it around, see what lights go off and you move it down the circuit to pin point the fault.

But whatever you do when replacing parts use good quality ones, I've been burned far to many times by "it's a new part and it can't be bad.....the problem must be somewhere else".

 

Have you or your family/etc owned the car since it was new? I wonder if along the way a circuit breaker was put somewhere?

 

If I recall correctly battery on the Chev's in that period runs from the battery and alt to the post on the horn relay first then from there to the junction block in the firewall with a heavy gauge red wire, if it helps at all.

 

I'm no fan of old OG ignition switches. That is where I start when I have a similar issue. I agree that new parts are not as good as NOS parts if you can find them.

 

My brother had this exact problem on his originally wired 61 Chevy.
He finally found a poor connection at either that junction block or relay located on the center of the firewall.

 

Had a similar problem caused by the firewall plug on my '64 Chevelle; finally became became tired of getting out and wiggling the plug and ended up re-routing the offending power wire around the fuse panel and plug. Daily driver back when; probably a better way to address it on a collectible car now-a-days.

 

I can’t remember on a ‘63, but it’s either the horn relay or the voltage regulator that is the junction block. I know in ‘60/‘61 it’s the voltage regulator that’s the power distribution.

 

Did you run any wires under the carpet in the drivers side floor pan? For example the battery in the trunk and you ran the lead to the front of the car under the carpet? Your heel can be pulling the lead out of a faulty crimp. I've seen it before.

 

Start interlock circuit issues...?

 

Like VTWHEAD touched on. That heavy gauge wire typically ran from the battery, across the top of the radiator core support, to the drivers side. Follow that to wherever it goes. Caution... there is a lot of smoke inside that wire. Don't let it out.

 

Not a problem, you can just purchase the genuine Lucas replacement smoke, it’s a thing, I’ve seen it on here ; ). You might need 3-4 jars.

 

Step 1. Go buy a spray can of DeOxit 5 electrical contact cleaner.

Step 2. Seperate any bulkhead connectors p***ing thru the firewall and inspect for corrosion. Corroded or not, spray all terminals with DeOxit and scrub with an old toothbrush or something else with non-metallic bristles. Spray again with DeOxit, let dry and re***emble. Actually, do this with any electrical connector that you can readily access.

 

Yeah, I wouldn't expect an electric Gremlin to have a whole lot of power.

 

Hey Everybody, thanks for all of the tips. So far I have replaced the ignition switch and I also pulled the firewall connection, cleaned it and put some dielectric grease on it. I don’t have too many miles on it since then, but it hasn’t died either. Another questionable item did pop up however. Several months back I replaced the alternator with a powermaster unit. I ran a ground cable to one of the exhaust bolts that the previous alternator had used. Today I noticed that the ground cable appears to have a burn where the cable meets its connector (See photo). What the hell is that about? That is a plug wire adjacent to it, which appears to be in good shape, no burn marks or cracks.

 

Could be a poor connection between the cable and the end (crimped part). I've also seen the heat transfer to the wire insulation and melt it a little, you should ground it to the engine block (less heat). BTW you can't have too many grounds....battery to block, block to frame, frame to body, all with good quality battery cable.

 

Crimped connections on moving objects that vibrate is never a good idea. I repair electricity for a living and have seen it all. The best connection is mechanical with some silver solder, you might need to use Map gas and a torch on low.
I would rather use an Ideal Tan or Red N cap then any crimp on. Even the real expensive crimp-ons come loose. They were never a good idea and they keep hanging around like a bad potato chip fart.

When I buy an old car and I know it's a keeper. I take the fuse box apart and solder every connection.

You really should take the factory 10 DN alternator to a reputable rebuilder. Then have him pick up a regulator for it, if mechanical, have him install them both and set the regulator up unless he likes the solid-state jobs.

Also NEVER use any of those chrome Cal Custom regulator covers. They screw up the magnetic field of the regulator. Frankly I never liked any of that chrome junk anyhow. It's a shame how some guys screw up an otherwise beautiful car with all those ego trinkets.

 

I don't like that battery ground on the exhaust manifold. High heat increases electrical resistance.

 

Check your ignition coil. Condenser coil. My guess, your losing continuity in the ignition circuit. The field collapsing due to a dead short when it gets hot and you hit a bump. It happens randomly... hot days, long drives? If it comes back to life quickly it almost appears things cooling or loosing heat and no longer contacting electrically.

I'd also question that voltage regulator simply because there is probably a coil in there as well.

 

Had a 1962 Nova that had been shutting down intermittently. Turned out that the resistive wire from the ignition switch (gm used this wire in place of a ballast resistor) to the starter solenoid R terminal was loose at the terminal. The R terminal also had a wire to the ignition coil. That wire at the terminal could've also been loose too. Might want to check the wiring at the solenoid.

 

Just run the ground to a bolt hole in the block not the exhaust manifold. You could even use the same bolt the battery ground goes to.