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Technical Flathead Compression

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dsiddons, Sep 18, 2022.

  1. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,951

    Slopok
    Member

    Ya gotta ask yourself, what would Jim @squirrel do???
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  2. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,222

    trad27
    Member

    Cool car, I say go for it. It either breaks or it doesn't, you can do all the preventative you can but some point it's just luck, fun either way and you will regret of you don't.
    I've been driving my '31 roadster to viva last 5 years or so. 265 Chevy, '39 trans, torque tube and Columbia. But I'm only little over 600 miles round trip. I'll be there in mine, will be looking for you.
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. hfh
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 508

    hfh
    Member
    from Western MA

    I hope you decide to make the trip and I hope you will share the details with us. Thank you.
     
  4. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,222

    trad27
    Member

    Me personally I just bring basic set of hand tools, definitely water, oil, rags, and basic ignition parts. I have a 16 gallon tank but if yours is smaller bring a can. You can drive yourself crazy trying to think of every possible senerio and bring all the speciality tools and parts you think you might need. Oh yeah and sunblock lol
     
    dsiddons likes this.
  5. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,887

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've got some bailing wire around here with a Ford part number
    I'll send you some, that and some hand tools is all you need
    Ear protection will allow you to have a conversation after the end of the driving day in a Roadster
    I'm just east of Albuquerque on US66 and have a fully outfitted mechanics truck and trailer but I doubt you will need to call
    Carry on
     
    wandi harry, Jet96 and ClayMart like this.
  6. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,577

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bring ear plugs. The air going by ears hour after hour is not good. Also helps because your exhaust is not out the back.
    Drive and climb the hills where you feel comfortable. I hate when trucks pass but not much you can do other than give then a little extra room. Parking under an overpass in the rain was always ok with me. RainX.
     
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  7. Ron Plumlee
    Joined: Feb 12, 2012
    Posts: 171

    Ron Plumlee
    Member

    Folks drove from New York to Texas, Chicago to LA, etc in 1950 and never gave it a thought. GO.
     
  8. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,572

    dsiddons
    Member
    from Indiana

    Well all gauges and wiring are new. Radiator is custom from Speedway From a cat who builds them for race cars and such. Anyway you can put your hand on the hoses after a long drive in 90 degree weather. It’s legit no shit runs at about 105 . I should do a video I know sounds crazy
     
  9. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,572

    dsiddons
    Member
    from Indiana

    Thanks for the input definitely the parts list has grown . I still think I can manage it as long as I keep my personal bag small. Hahahaha. Didn’t think about the water pump and gaskets. Damn left and right. Wheel bearings? Puller? Still small . Someone said rain X now that is something I’d forget thank you. I’m getting a list together. Big little tubes? Pistal? Hahaha
     
  10. arse_sidewards
    Joined: Oct 12, 2021
    Posts: 336

    arse_sidewards
    Member
    from Central MA

    I would want the coolant to get up at least into the 180s if not 190s in order to ensure that the whole engine is hot enough that any moisture byproducts from combustion evaporate out of the oil quickly.
     
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,485

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm not sure how an engine could run efficiantly at 105 after it was fully warmed up, But as long as it doesn't puke coolant and doesn't scare you so be it.

    As far as the car goes it is the prep, Packed front wheel bearings, All fluids checked, all lights checked, tire pressure checked and tires inspected. Belts and hoses inspected..

    Parts= a set of spare belts even if they are the old belts in good shape that you replaced recently. In the sleeve that the current belts came in.
    A set of front wheel bearings aren't a bad idea but Henry was cheap and there are only a very few different front wheel bearings in all Fords from 1928 though the early 90's. Still that is a side of the road or parking lot fix that can be done and get you going.
    Spare light bulbs for turn lights and stop/tail lights and headlights if you use something like an H-4. I've dug into my stash of 1157 and 1156 bulbs a lot of times for others as well as myself over the years on the way to or at events. Had a pretty nice state patrolman hold a flashlight while I changed a taillight bulb in the 48 one night on the side of the road. He pulled me over because the light was out and as were in a pretty safe spot and I said I had spare bulbs he stood there and held his flash light on it while I popped the lens off and swapped bulbs.
    I just about forgot, SPARE FUEL FILTER plus only stop at new modern high volume stations, Don't stop at those old gas stations turned mini marts with old pumps or those quaint old stations. Those places are where you get the cruddy gas.

    Any more I don't get too carried away with carrying a lot of spare stuff. Or extra tools for that matter, If I can't change something with basic tool bag hand tools it probably means that the car/truck is going to end up being hauled to some place it can be repaired either by me or someone else.

    As far as compression I think that good compression for that engine is around 120 on most 8BA based engines according to Vanpelts flathead page. An Even 90 straight across isn't all that bad.

    Now, go have fun and take lots of photos to share, both on the road trip and there.

    Screenshot (463).png
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  12. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,295

    19Fordy
    Member

    DUCT tape of course!
     
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  13. JWL115C
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 288

    JWL115C
    Member

    In Albuquerque: Jamie Johnson at Hot Rod Haven. Also, the Tumbleweed Early Ford V-8 Club. I would Google them both for contact info just in case.
     
  14. In my roadside emergency kit, I usually packed a few random length 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" bolts and nuts, a length of 14 gauge wire, a few crimp connectors (and crimper/wire cutter), spare fuses and electrical tape. If I had a chromed alternator, I tucked a spare non-chromed one away somewhere in the bowels of the car (this after having chromed alternators fail on long trips three times, though never again once I started carrying the spare). a couple small wood blocks, and a compact scissor jack. I like the all-in-one (like 105 or whatever piece sets) socket/wrench sets. They're compact and generally a pretty good collection of sockets, bits etc., along with a few screwdrivers, pliers and vise grips. RainX, sun screen, sun glasses and a hat are roadster necessities.

    A roadster provides quite the opportunity for creative Tetris packing to take advantage of ever cubic inch of available space. Good luck, have fun and please share the trip with us...they create great threads to follow.
     
    winduptoy, dsiddons and Jibs like this.
  15. Jagmech
    Joined: Jul 6, 2022
    Posts: 238

    Jagmech

    Get another gauge.
     
  16. Jagmech
    Joined: Jul 6, 2022
    Posts: 238

    Jagmech

     
  17. Jagmech
    Joined: Jul 6, 2022
    Posts: 238

    Jagmech

    If you feel gauge is good, than buy an infrared temp tool , really, any IC engine should run at the correct temp for mileage, and to prevent sludge formation in the oil, like the guys said, try thermostats, and take a good hiway dry run for an hour or two , and watch the temp and compare with the infrared tool.
     
  18. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 1,431

    Jet96
    Member
    from WY

    Like @winduptoy said- baling wire is your friend. From throttle linkages to hose clamps to keeping your shades on. If you can't find the Ford stuff, I've had pretty good luck with the field variety...
     
    50 CHEVY 3100, winduptoy and alanp561 like this.
  19. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 831

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Send it!! Sounds like a great adventure! I personally would put thermostats in it to increase operating temps, as 100 degree running temp would make me nervous. But I’m a worrying type by nature ;)
     
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  20. Join the Early Ford V8 Club and get a copy of the membership roster, you instantly have the names, addressed and phone numbers of 7000 folks, many along your route, that are into old Fords and are often happy to help or know somebody in the area you are in to help.
     
    Budget36 likes this.
  21. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,718

    banjorear
    Member

    Like others have mentioned, if the gauge is correct, it's running too cool. 100 degrees is less than a cup of hot coffee.

    Good news, count your blessings because that means your block and rad are clean as a whistle.

    Bad news, put some T-stats in because that motor is running too cool. That low of an operating temp will actually cause more issues than it will solve.

    My fresh rebuild with a surgically clean block, new radiator, Skip Haney high volume water pumps, no T-stats, a mechanical fan and using straight water wouldn't get over 160 degrees no matter what. Even at 160, it was running too cold. Carbs didn't like it.

    Took fan off and put T-stats in and will sit at 180. Only in dead stop traffic will it creep up to 200+/- degrees.
     
  22. 50 CHEVY 3100
    Joined: Aug 26, 2022
    Posts: 9

    50 CHEVY 3100

    Glad you decided to go. You won't regret it, at worst it'll be memorable. Think of all the jealous people seeing you, wishing they could be YOU!!
     
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  23. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,718

    banjorear
    Member

    Totally agree. I'm an elementary school principal and I drove my roadster to school yesterday. I pulled in the same time as one of my students who has significant special needs. He saw the car and I could tell he wanted to get close. I had him sit in it and the smile on his face made both of our days.

    Later in the day, I came back from a meeting and drove by the Kindergarten students on the playground. They all ran over and went crazy when I revved it.

    Its the little moments like this that make driving an old hot rod all worth it.
     
  24. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,572

    dsiddons
    Member
    from Indiana

    Used a infrared gun got these results. Head temp 174 hottest point , lower water pump hose 134, upper hose 85, water pumps 134, 145 . Water temp gauge got to 110. I do have a new spare temp probe on the other head I may swap out shortly see what I get.
     
  25. ronnieroadster
    Joined: Sep 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,160

    ronnieroadster
    Member

    Since the hottest head temp was 174 that's actually more realistic on what you should be seeing. The gauge is obviously not accurate at all. Using the infrared gun takes some practice if you check on a shinny surface the readings will not be as accurate. Overall a running temp of 160 to 180 would be ideal for any journey I would go for it.
    Ronnieroadster
     
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  26. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 5,293

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Flagstaff AZ elevation is 7000 feet + or - a very few.
     
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  27. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,572

    dsiddons
    Member
    from Indiana

    Ok so poor performance I get it. This is I’m worried about carb ice with the possibility of the dew point and temperature being close together during the spring. So what’s the problems here?
     
  28. Jagmech
    Joined: Jul 6, 2022
    Posts: 238

    Jagmech

    Assuming you installed thermostats, it is still too cool , not a bad problem to have, considering the opposite situation, just takes piece of cardboard, block off a portion of radiator, maybe a third, and give it a drive. Temp will go up, gauge may turn out to be close enough and infrared will confirm. If you pick up another 30 degrees or so you may want to "mask" the radiator with a piece of aluminum and hit the road. Sort it out when you get home.
     
  29. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,376

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Assuming that it is a 24-stud flathead, stock compression ratios were:

    6.2:1
    6.3:1
    6.6:1
    6.75:1
    6.8:1
    7.2:1

    Standardized for atmospheric pressure at sea-level, of 14.7psi, those compute to idealized compression readings of (in psi):
    91.287
    92.757
    97.167
    99.225
    100.107
    105.987

    This assumes 100% efficient entry of air into the cylinders, which is a fantasy with every engine, especially a flathead.

    At 90-95psi, your flathead is just fine.

    As others have mentioned, put thermostats in it. Cooler is NOT better.

    Each engine family has its own proper exact temperature range for complete combustion.

    For most engines, this equates to a water temperature of somewhere between 190º and 195º.

    Below that, you are pushing fuel out the exhaust. That both cost horsepower and money

    Get yourself a cheap IR thermometer at the hardware store. Point it at the radiator hoses, and see what it says.
     
  30. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 872

    CSPIDY
    Member

    I presume you are not taking a spare wheel/tire
    Buy a
    cheep tire plug kit,
    Can of Fix a flat
    and
    a portable hand held compressor, about $60.00 (Amazon) works really well
    looks like a screw gun
    Enjoy the ride
     
    gary macdonald likes this.

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