Hot Rods XO/PP Bonneville project

As promises photos

 

Nice

 

Me likey.

 

Good deal, finally getting the parts! That piston looks so tiny. What is the bore on that beast?

 

WOW!

 

Yes, it is small. The stock bore on a 262 is 3.718 and I believe John said he bored this one .030, so 3.748, or round it to ~3.75. We could go bigger, .060 or .080, but that still wouldn't even get us up to 4.00 and with the core shift we discovered in the last block, John doesn't want to push it. Plus we'll get a few rebuilds out of it.

 

They look smaller than his hand in the picture. Maybe it's just the way the pictures are. Or else he has huge hands!

 

Ha Ha, John does have big hands.

 

Bore is 3.780

 

I installed the crank and measured the piston to deck and it will need to be milled .025 to bring the compression ratio to 13.5 to 1
So off to Jimmy's to deck the block and measured bearing clearance to the crank. Then he will polish
The crank. Then it's all into the washer for final cleaning.
Then it's ready for ***embly...
Photos to follow

 

Is there a reason to take material off the block, rather than the head?
Thanks.

 

Less removal is required from the block for a given compression ratio, because the bore area is greater than the combustion chamber area.


Removing material from the block means heads can be changed out without having to worry about changing the compression ratio by equivalent milling of the new head. Valve train measurements (pushrod length, etc) will remain the same.

 

pprather : machine the block so the piston sits flush with the top, instead of down the bore. machining the head doesn't fix this problem, & you get better control of your "squish" thickness. Sorry : The word I was looking for is "Quench", describing the compression distance between the piston & the head at TDC(including the gasket thickness). It is recommended to have between .035 & .045, but in no case ever more than .060 (unless using forced induction, & that's another can of worms!) If you have more than .060 you run the risk of detonation that will be difficult to correct without "fixing" the "Quench". You may want to ask a racing machinist to give you a better answer, but these couple of sentences are the basics.

 

Yes the piston is .015 down the hole and I want it .010 out above the deck. With a .055 compressed head gasket it gives me a .040 squish between the piston and the head.

 

Jimmy's Engine Service has decked the block and is finessing the crank journals and checking bearing clearences. I will do the final inspection and run the block and crank through the washer for the final time before ***embly
Tomorrow. Photos to follow

 

Read article about cut up welded LS V8 alumin7m heads on chev 6. Years ago drag modified roadster ran welded V8 heads on Ford 6. Your 6 is older & have no idea what other welded heads could be adapted or if legal in your cl***. Crazy $$$ project for more power. Good luck

 

A head mod like that would move into **O and disqualify it from Production cl***.

 

^^^^Sort of expected, obviously not know all Bonnie rules

 

In fact, ANY major port mods outside of a normal port/polish will also kick it to **O as The Salt Cat guys found out a few years back.

 

The original intake and exhaust manifolds must be able to bolt up.

 

As promised decked and cleaned

 

Is it the photo or is the crosshatch kinda shallow?

 

There were also sandwich heads. Once the manifolds were attached they are difficult to spot.

 

^^ ok frenchtown, what heads do you run on your modified?? Believe u run Ford 300 or have a couple of them. Had one ready to build but sold all parts diff direction. Love the 300 & jeep 6, two good sixes

 

Not to hyjack this thread too much, but I use a crossflow head. Totally different deal.

 

After the initial hone I take a ball hone and run it through the bores in counterclockwise rotation to planish the effects of the honing process. It knocks off the sharp edges left from the hone. This helps enitial break in friction on the rings and lowers the heating of the ring during the first few minutes of fire up. I normally only let the engine run 2 to 3 minutes as I check oil pressure and timing. Let it cool back to ambient temp before I refire it and run it for 15 to 20 minutes at 1800 rpm to brake in the cam. Then I wait for several hours for it to cool before re torqing the head .
Then it's ran several more times for 20 minutes each time varieing engine speed s. Usually burn 5 gallons of fuel through it before dropping the break in oil and change to race oil. Ready to race....

 

Another big HP project going on at Jimmy's Engine Service blown 355 Chevy small block w 671 huffer

 

Is that torque plate something that's available or something you made for yourself?

Lou Mangl***

 

I made the torque plate myself nothing is available for the 262 Ford engine except headers and a 4 barrel intake. Everything else in the way of speed parts must be custom made. Believe me this engine has been a challenge to develop from a low RPM basic torque
engine to a high energy output engine. But I truly love a challenge. We have been competing against a much bigger engine, the 302 GMC punched out to over 320 cu. In will be hard to beat with our little engine that could and the big brick it's saddled with.
BIG CHALLANGE!!

 

The crank is ready, polished, clearance, washed and ready to go