Sherry wants our Model A sedan to be black, so that's what it will be. The engine is a nailhead that's just about ready for paint. I want the engine to be black with white (or cream or chrome or something) valve covers, valley pan, pulleys, brackets, etc.). In my post about painting engines it was mentioned several times that hi-temp paint is not necessary on an engine. In response # 20 @Moriarity says he painted his beautiful Cadillac engine with "epoxy sealer (never high build prime cast iron) and paint with automotive urethane. mine is gold base, intercoat clear with mini flake and candy pagan gold followed by 3 coats of clear, 10 years later and still looks great". That engine is one of my favorites on the hamb. So what I'm thinking is to use the epoxy sealer, black basecoat, and some # of clearcoats. No flake, just shiny black. Today's question is for paint recommendations. Based on the above is there a preferred brand of paint I should be using? A particular line within that brand? Should I order on-line? Or should I just go down to the paint store and buy whatever brand they have in stock? Note that in Columbia, Missouri, about our only choice in paint suppliers is O'Reilly's parts house. There probably are others but I'm not aware of them. Keep in mind that it seems to me that I should use the same thing on the engine that I'll be using on the body.
Atch for the Timex (355) I used Dupli-color. I bought it at ace hardware. Primer same brand then black. You have seen the mill in several cars and on my shop floor. it has not even been touched up since '1997. The iron needs to be clean, clean. I after hot tanking I used a stiff brush and Tide mixed really heavy then flushing with lots and lots of clear water. I did the entire block inside and out actually prior to ***embly. I always wash the hell out of one after machining. The paint I really like for one that I am going to drive (unless I have lacquer of course) is a single stage paint called Emron. DO NOT use it, your health is not good enough to do so without a pretty serious respirator and I have buried too damned many in the last few years. I will squirt it for you if you must. Other wise use a good single stage enamel. Even tractor paint works well if you do the proper prep (think about the @raven 's roadster). Black usually casts a tint either brown or blue. I prefer the blue, the guy at the paint store should be able to tell you or get the chips out into the light and tip them to look at an angle. Hope this helps a little bit.
If I am doing a budget conscious project, I use good old tractor enamel on frames and engines. It holds up well, dries to a rock hard finish and is cheap enough. Either rattle can or cheap Harbor Fright spray gun. Just finished this engine in Oliver Grey (closest I could find to IH grey) this spring. Scary part was it came out of the can ***mins Tan, but dried to a real nice grey. I did this 300 well over ten years ago. Ford Tractor Blue. It has held up really well. This little Dodge 315 was also done with Tractor Enamel. I think I could have done a better job, but the owner was happy with it.
Ah the old which black is best thread…… Mike you can spend weeks chasing the correct answer. It sort of depends on what looks right in your eye or more so, mama’s eyes. I have been researching this very thing for another project.
Atch, You may want to go talk to these guys. https://www.finishmaster.com/ 316 Nebraska Ave, Columbia, MO
I've done ok with single stage catalyzed Acrylic Enamel automotive paint, over bare (well cleaned) cast iron, on several engines. Lasts a long time, first one I did 30 years ago still looks pretty nice, and it got driven a lot.
I usually sue Eastwood ceramic engine enamels but about three years ago I shot one with Limco Supreme plus from National Coatings. This is a catalyzed urethane. You can't beat this stuff off. To make a long story short, the motor came back to the shop to be put in another rod that required a color change. Now I can't get it off. i don't like to have anything thicker than necessary on an engine due to heat retention so just a scuff and paint is against my nature but it's doing what I put it there to do. Shooting my Vicky in Limco as well. Expensive but well worth it.
My suggestion is to by Summit single stage urethane and use clear as you wish. Single stage has no uv protection but under the hood, that isn't much of an issue. On the body, it could be wise to use a higher priced clear over the black. If you're going to garage this vehicle and only let it sit in the sun occasionally, Summit clear will work well.
I will have 4 piece and 3 piece hoods, but probably will only have the top of the 3 piece on it most of the time or no hood at all.
In our town, O'Reilly's is the go to automotive paint store. Most of the local body shops that don't have their own paint line get their paint from them. The paint on both my 48 coupe (acrylic enamel) and my 49 pickup (acrylic urethane, it has more shine then the enamel and is suppose to be tougher) came from O'Reilly's. The O'Reilly's store here also has a nearly full length rack of spray paint options.
Spend a ton of time making sure that your engine is surgically clean. Yes, it is a PITA, but your hard work WILL show in the results. Epoxy primer, one coat. Catalyzed urethane up top.
Exactly. It is on the owner to behold. The truth is that most people are going to give it a look and say, "faarrrrrrrrrrr out maaaaannnnnn. Another black car." The surgically clean part is important way before paint. Catalyzed paint, epoxy, urethane, or even enamel are all good options for paint. All 3 seem to stand up to hydrocarbons better than just paint.
Cheap and easy Appliance Epoxy will work fine on the engine. Super durable and has great gloss. Rust-Oleum 7886830 Specialty Spray Paint Appliance Epoxy, 12 Ounce (Pack of 1), Black - Spray Paints - Amazon.com
I painted the Desoto 330 in my PU project with Eastwood 2K Ceramic gloss black engine spray paint, that stuff with the bladder inside that you have to puncture that contains hardener. I have only done the burn in and drove it around my neighborhood before dis***embling the PU for paint so I do not know how it will hold up but so far so black.
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