Today I heard on a rather low 32 frame with a unsplitted wishbone and the use of 59A truck 2 p oilpan need modifications. The 1 p don’t need that much work but best was a early 1 p pan that had the ’small’ drainplug, and they had a edged pan design so whit this pans the car can go low with a std bone set up. Ideas ? I never seen one so I can’t say. But source comes from a well experianced hot rod builder in Sweden that build many old school car decades back of works. ( At shop he had nothing to show me right now.
The earlier pans (pre-war) have a concave shape on the starter side that clears a stock 32 wishbone better than a 46-48 "59AB" pan.
The curve on the top pan gives you the extra clearance on unsplit bones as I found out. The 2 piece pan has an extra lip that would have to be modified to fit.
Hightower611, Is this 2 pans so one prewar and one later or has you modify same pan ? Yes the 2 p has then a lip. The prewar or before 35 has no crank vent, is that a issue ? What is your recomendation for me get a pan now and going rather low ( not super low ) and use a 59A and unsplitted bones. To get a 1 p 40’s pans is around ca US 100 but a very nice 2 p can be x2 or x3 or even x4 that price so better get the info correct. I has not seen a ex 34 pan or call them prewar, is that one like a sump or does it look like the 32 alu pans in design ? ( flat )
Those are 2 different pans from a borrowed picture where I "learned" about what you are going through now. I also wanted to retain the unsplit bones and I saw this picture, then went to see a restored car in person to calculate distance. I then decided to search for the pan with the curve identified. You can modify but they are available. Mine was a 1939/40 pan originally from a 221 Ford block or 239 Merc. I installed it on my C69A block in a 32 Ford with unsplit bones and fit the way I wanted. Many or most of the 59a series pans seemed to me to have a straight section where I needed the curve. I also had a 2 piece pan but it was clearly not going to work for me due to the interference.
I might need mock-up first now and borrow pans to see a issue. The idea to has a 2 p oilpan ”feel” hot-rod but I dont need it vs service clutch. I has located up several pans both 1 and 2 p in US and here in Sweden. The 2 p overhere is cheap and 30 minutes away and a decent pan but I feel the lip will cause me issues even if I modify it. As you said and the guy here in Sweden is get a prewar pan, but as C69A showed a later pan can be modify. One thing do worry me in a prewar is no crank vent. I was to bidd on a alu 32 pan at ebay but was not shore if it fit ( hard to weld/modify ) and it was also repaired. I guess it fit as a prewar but it was the flat style and I seen alu pans with sump ( look better ) -I guess I start out borrow the 2 pan here and do a mock-up.
Hank, you can compare the steel pan with the relief to an aluminum "59" style pan, which I think will give you more clearance. The aluminum pan was manufactured by Ford and used on military vehicles in Europe, to the best of my knowledge. Tom
Ok I see the clearance, but this pan look different than another I try bid on, it was almost flat ( not a sump as this. This is the dream pan !
Today I went to see a pre-war oilpan with the wedged area at the starter. That the way to go for me here, so thank's all get me info clear this up. Pan was great, and I think I can bought it. Its so easy gets parts one can look at not far away. Also parts here has been high but our money SEK to USD is terrible today so parts from USA will be Very expensive.
We just heated mine with a torch and worked it slowly with a big piece of heavy tube on the correct angle to mimic the wishbone and have lots of room, 59A/AV8/34 Wishbone/32 k-Member That alloy/military 59A pan is amazing...
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