(I thought I was posting here when I posted on the introduction thread, sorry for duplicate) Long time forum reader, 1st time poster. Figured I’d start a new thread than recycle 15 year old threads. I acquired a 1954 GMC panel truck and started this week on it. It’s all in one piece but was parked running and has been sitting since the seventies. I’m not gonna post tear down pics because 1: I’m pretty private about my workspace 2: It’s a big old truck that looks like any other big rusty project. Having said all that; I’m finding a lot of threads of posts and forums of people starting these projects and I’m just curious who has done work on stove bolts and what improvements they were able to make. Without sounding pessimistic I notice a lot of people suggest throwing a pile of cash at all the parts to hop them up, but we are just trying to breath life back into it. Over the years this forum has really helped bail me out on some hard projects so figured it’s time to actively participate. Thanks for letting me share.
You can also access a ton of info on stovebolt.com sites,Facebook groups i.e. "stovebolters r us", "inliners" etc...theres also "oldgmctrucks.com there's lots of people willing to help good luck
If you just want to get it running again, and not put a lot of miles on it, you might not have to do much...or you might...but there's no way we can tell without knowing what condition it's in. Pictures are a fantastic way to convey that information. If you're clever taking pictures, you can exclude everything else in the shop, and show us the important bits. But basically...if the bores are really worn out, then hone/rings might not fix it enough. If it spun a bearing, or has a cracked block or head, then you need to spend some money. But most engines that were running when parked (which is a joke unto itself) can be made to run and drive again with minimal cash outlay, if you have a good sense of what it really needs to run, vs what it needs to live a long productive life. Former is usually on the order of a few hundred bucks, latter is several thousand.
Thanks (I don’t know if I’m having internet issues be patient with me working this site) oh I left a lot out this truck is amazing. It started life new as a grocery store maintenance department vehicle. Then it was a family friends carpenter’s work truck before parked. It has an oil bath so the inside of the motor is immaculate, but the cooling p***ages were still full of antifreeze. Overall it was parked as a running vehicle nothing taken off of it. The pics I will post are mostly going to be progress. Today was getting all the rotted stuff off and the dirt. 42 years of West Texas sand and moisture is like an archaeological dig. I’ve tried to post a pic today but it doesn’t load. I was able to post it on a thread I posted on regarding BXOV carbs the other day. I really appreciate the info guys. it’s awesome to share and gain insight.
I put a lot of miles on a 49 gmc. As is Did great but the the old style brakes kinda **** compared to the newer bendix style which your truck should have. The 6 is a great little engine. Improvements? For daily cruising, just make sure what’s there works like it should. There are better rear gears available for the 1/2 ton trucks. Mine is running a 6 lug rear from an early 60s gm truck. Easy swap with the spring perches changed. That gives ya an open drive shaft. I plan on adding a 3speed OD.
Might be that the image file size is too large....I use Microsoft Paint to resize some images. But another way to do it is to use google photos, which is where all my phone pictures end up...then when I view and download them, they are a smaller size. I don't know how computer savvy you are, some gearheads are not, a few are. Usually getting a kid or grandkid involved will solve these issues
That’s awesome. Once I get the motor going and understand what I can get away with that’s next project brakes bearings joints etc. I’m still having a hard time getting a pic to upload. Maybe I can post it as my avatar
I did have an issue with the old style ball bearings in the front I just found some replacement ones. But I think ill use tapered bearings when I go thru it again
I've been running ball bearings on my 59 chevy truck for decades, I did have to replace a couple over the years. But that's mostly due to lack of maintenance, not because there's anything wrong with ball bearings.
looks like it's been sitting a long long time. If you're keeping the six, then you're probably not driving real fast, and the original brakes, put back to good condition, should stop it ok.
That thing is dang near perfect. A good clean up, some brakes, make it go. Old wooden ladder Zoom zoom
Lol the guy who owned it was joking but he said if I didn’t take the ladder the deal was off. We had to chunk it because it just fell apart when we moved it. It was on there since ‘69 when it was parked
I’m selling a 69 c10 which is the truck that took the 54’s place. Once this one is going it goes up for sale and then I’m building a 57 3100 pickup. So I have a busy year but the 57 I’m going post as I go along it’s a complete rebuild. It was an man’s hot rod project he died before finishing. The 57 I intend to keep
You may have a wheel problem with that truck. https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/ Since you are flipping the truck. It might be best to clean it up and hang a sign on it. 3/4 tons can be hard to move.
248’s are good engines. Can be bored to a stock 256” and a 270 4”crank will fit to make it a 270. With todays roads a higher gear rear end can be added. Good luck and have fun.
Thanks man. I was able to spin the motor by hand today. I had to free up dirt built around the pulley. I’ve been putting oil down the cylinders. Found out it has about 56k original miles. The downside is it had been sitting since 69, lots of dirt, mechanically everything is free and moves but lots of soaking. I spent last week trying to find carb or kits to no avail. Today trying to find distributor upgrades or rebuild kits to no avail. All my research and no help from parts stores is I may have to go pertronix and do an adaptor to 2 barrel. There are no ready to run distributors or quality 1 barrel carbs compatible to the Stromberg that is on it. But I am determined and really impressed lol
Post a pic of the carb What’s wrong with the distributor? Does it need more than points and condenser?
I might just suggest that you get the engine running as is with stock carb and ignition before ***uming that they are bad. Once engine is running, then decide if you really need to start throwing $$$ at Petronix and cool carb conversions. Keep it simple to begin with. Have fun
Some guys think there is something magical about carbs and point ignition...but there isn't...what you see is what you get. You can check the distributor for function pretty easily. Connect a test light to the distributor side of the coil, then turn on the ignition, and crank the engine. If the test light stays lit, then the points are not conducting, and need to be filed, or maybe there's a bad connection somewhere. If the light does not come on at all, then there's a short to ground. If it blinks on and off, your points are working. I've never had to replace points or condenser to get a long sitting car running again, most I've had to do is either file the points, or adjust them. Carbs are more complicated, but can usually be made to work, sometimes without buying any parts at all. But that depends on the carb, and what condition it's in. Some of them only have a gasket at the top of the float bowl, and it doesn't really need to seal well for the carb to work. If there's **** in there, plugging holes, you'll need to clean that out. If there's rust or other corrosion, it can get more complicated. But it's a really simple device, mostly. Pictures....we can help you figure out what it needs, if we can see it. Also, make sure to do a compression test once you get it cranking with the starter. That can tell you a lot, and save you h***le of trying things that aren't going to work, due to low compression.
The carb is a BXOV-2 Stromberg, I’m gonna dip it, the ****erflies have a lot of play on the shafts and the distributor is really clean inside but after 43 years sitting the dirt and grime has seized all the flathead screws. I will post pics in the morning. Part of why I’m thinking I’m going to have to change it is the 6v generator is completely seized and the fuel pump is completely impacted with rust. So that tells me I’m gonna half to do a nurse tank and pump so I thought might as well switch to twelve volt. I’ve had to rebuild generators when I worked for an alternator company and those thing ****ed hope the pics of the carb are ok.
I don’t do cool I do functional lol I’m just looking for get it to start every time. My only real issue was having to eliminate the generator. It took the worst from sitting and the fuel pump second.
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/bx-stromberg-carburetor-kit-k4256 https://www.carburetor-parts.com/StrombergBXVKits.html not saying these are the exact kit but these guys can help. But I’d get it all untuck first. I’m Not familiar with a Stromberg on these trucks. I’ve only messed with the Carters.
Those are excellent carbs. Contact CarbKing here on the HAMB. I don’t like adapters and for your 248 a single is really good enough. There is a way of using a 302 two barrel manifold that will add torque to your engine. If you find you find one get it, but then you will need a 2 barrel. The ignition take the same points as all the Chev 6’s and I believe Harleys. The distributor should be free and move about 10-15 degrees with your hand. They are not bolted tight like others. Like squirrel says they are bullet proof with a good condenser. There are HEI’s that are bolt in. Tom Langdon sells a nice electronic for the older Chev/GMC if that’s what you want and it’s bolt in. My son runs on his 302. There are ways to free up rings if some are stuck show on you tube. Good luck.
so I started out as a motorcycle mechanic in my teens and all they would let me work on was old triumphs and then Japan bikes. By the time I got to old Harley and dirt bikes everything was cdi. Now I’m not opposed to pints and carbs but I’ve gotten really reliant on electronics and and upgrades. What I love about this truck is I can rebuild everything like they did in the old days. What I can’t get is parts immediately or on demand. I’m hoping this thing will bust off and go but I’m expecting it to be like a 1954 vehicle that will give me hell lol
The Jalopy Journal
