It seems you are solving problems before diagnosis. You have a working distributor that may only need some cleaning and adjusting. Same with the carb. Brakes wotked for many years, no reason they can't work again.
Thanks man. Motor is free and immaculate, we spun it by hand today, I used my inspection camera cylinders are perfect. My main issue is the generator from sitting out for 43 years is completely seized. So If I can test compression and if the starter turns ( it’s foot switch) then I’m thinking alternator and 12v harness. The bad thing is the insides of everything are perfect but the outsides like screws and connections are degraded. I’m thinking to just get life Amazon one barrel and a 12v conversion on the distributor.
Thanks man, I posted on an old format on the carb and he responded. I wasn’t aware I could send a message but just now figured out how. Hopefully he’ll respond.
Thanks man. We got everything free today so tomorrow is try and power starter for compression. What was keeping it from turning was a thick cake of 43 year old dirt under and around the pulley. Did a ****tail of degreaser and Deep Creep, I’m getting giddy just thinking. Sadly the generator couldn’t be saved. Water pump and p***ages need cleaning and fuel pump was just so rusted we are trying to soak it in a PB buster solution. Other than that it’s just triage lol
The Stromberg B series carbs are some of the very best single barrel carbs ever made. I have 86 different entries in my database for the Stromberg BXOV-2. Virtually all (and probably yours) were aftermarket. You will need to identify the carburetor should you need parts. A few were identified by tag only; but most have the identification number STAMPED, NOT RAISED, into the air horn (top casting). Clean the flat surface of the top casting; and after cleaning, look at the area just to the right of being directly above where the fuel inlet comes into the side. Again, you are looking at the top casting. Referencing the fuel inlet in the center section only to explain where on the top casting to look. Don't automatically throw money at parts, but if you determine you actually NEED a part, contact Then & Now Automotive in the Boston area. They should have most ignition, charging, and brake parts in stock. Won't try to talk you out of an alternator, but it just adds an additional degree of unknown. Generators are quite simple devices, and work very well. The biggest issue with 6 volt systems is self-inflicted. Folks buy new cables from an auto parts store that were designed for 12 volts, and are not large enough for the current required with 6 volts. My wife's Father and Grandfather drove a 1949 GMC more than 100k miles with no expenditures other than gas, oil, tune-ups, tires, and exhaust. Didn't even have to replace the clutch. Very reliable trucks. Have fun with your project. Jon.
You can do this. Just about all basic parts are either in stock or 3 days away. What the big suppliers do not have, the specialty antique parts businesses do have. Then there's that online auction place. From Jim Carter https://oldchevytrucks.com/ 1947-1955 GM trucks are one of the most popular vehicles of all time. Parts are no problem. My opinion on this truck.... It is what it is and what it is, is pretty special. What it has going for is its originality. It's not a hot rod nor will it ever be. 3/4, 3/4 Heavy Duty or 1-ton Panels are not performance vehicles. The simplest and easiest thing to do is just fix it. Keep it 6V. Keep it as original as you can. If you try to crank on 12V, be sure to isolate the gauges or the truck's main harness. You may can hot wire the engine through a switch off a battery, not tying into the trucks harness. 12V will fry that gauge pack. If you must convert to 12V all you need to do is run a ballast or use a resistor coil to protect the points. You'll also need to reduce the voltage to the gauges. Then there's the charging system. There's no difference between 6V points and 12V points...none. Really, it's just easier and more cost effective to keep it 6v. All you are doing is fixing or replacing what's there. You can fix this truck like 1954. I think this would be the simplest and best way to go. Get a shop manual.
Now that’s what I like to hear. Sound reasoning. I’m pretty grounded in my decisions on this truck because in reality I’m just a caretaker of it. I have a lot of parts from other jobs I’ve done so what is complicated for some I can do pretty reliably. What I don’t know I can find a guy who has done it. Did compression today all cylinders between 112 to 120. So now it’s just ***embly. I still haven’t found the answer what Chevy parts are compatible to GMC for this truck. I’ve got it narrowed down now so for this truck to survive around here it’s gonna have to be 12v with the right fuel delivery because not a lot of parts exist here. We are probably keeping this because all the trucks here from the 50’s are frame swapped or LS swapped.
By right fuel delivery, what do you mean? You have to have a new mechanical fuel pump. You'll have to have a new gas tank. Trust me on the new tank, I know it's over $400 but it is reproduced and it's not getting any cheaper. That sounds high but you'll spend nearly half that maybe more than half of that on gas running around searching and all kinds of concoctions to try and clean/seal that old tank. In the end, you'll get a new tank anyway. These old tanks will destroy fuel pumps and carburetors. Old tanks will also leave you stranded. image by Travis Brown, on Flickr Gas tank out of a 65F100. The truck was leaking gasoline out the cab as we loaded unto the trailer. I know they look like bullet holes they were pin holes that a screwdriver would penetrate with no pressure. This tank was rotten. Un***led by Travis Brown, on Flickr The junky jerry-rigged tank from who knows what, that was under my coupe. It's shown here with the replacement. Carter #M751 $29.99 You can get easy to bend Ni-Cop lines from Advance.
Nice truck, nothing like cruising around in a retired work horse. Yours is not a Chevy but most if not all of what I needed on my 59 I got from Napa
Thanks F-One, that’s a solid. We pulled all the old wiring out the other day and boxed it up. Went ahead wrapped and boxed up all the gauges boxed up all the original fuse holder and voltage regulator. We did compression yesterday the starter worked but after 43 years of sitting it was like waking a sleeping giant. I think our plan is to run a plastic tank I have for initial start up, but you really timed in on locating a mechanical fuel pump , I was pondering that.
My Napa guy here is mad at me, jokingly, When I said 1954 GMC he through his hands up said,”I’m out.” Lol here’s another retired workhorse. Picked these up together. They were father in law’s. He bought them from his best friend and forgot he bought them. He died last year her brother was gonna s**** them.
Big stuff ain’t performance vehicles? Tell that to the guy in the c10 with the LS that got a surprise by a short bus
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