Has anyone information about the Aburn cluthes. Intrested in the story and the hot rodding around it. Out of topics but related. -When I started my project after read on hot rods at car magazine here in Sweden since I was maybe 10, and I remember the Swedes legends and Mr Magoo ( but when I saw a 426 Hemi valvecover I was nocked out ) and after that and until now I has spend my time in Mopar muscle and racing and time in shop build engines and manufactoring parts ( most motorsports ) At the pandemic I had a brand new 426 ongoing but parts missing and USD is bad rate so I got into ; would I build a 3W coupe and I had read on Fergusons new deal on block, heads etc. Idea was find a body here and use a FH ( but I soon got overew on hot it up as I leaved after a while.. ) I dont need either RPM or HP, but style & sound. No body here was aviable so a expensive ones in US or a new Brookville 32 coupe or a 29 roadster. I bougt after decide go tradtional a frame etc etc but I could build a Mr Magoo street rod to, but it was not my cup so late 40’s style. Anyway, most parts now is hard to find, its beat up, cracked etc etc and its hard build it up since if one got a part, all parts arond its missing and no bolts etc, and I hate new bolts so it gets... complicated - but this is the way/road now. Everyday I learn something ’new’ ( FUN ) and I has look into a Lincoln box ( as I will get as a LZ is a must for me ) and owner said you should or need get a real hot tod clutch ( Aburn 9” lighteright ) He should send pictures so I know how they look. I found this now but no info. This kind of parts reallly get me hook. But common sense is use a modern clutch as ’who see it’ or a older cheaper OEM. Shore but its not about who see it, as now I heard about it... ;-)) Not say I will get one, but it shore sounds old cool.
I just dug this one out, it hadn't seen the light of day in over 30 years. It had surface rust everywhere, so I gave it a blasting. It's a 10" though. I know it's history way back to a channelled 32 five window hot rod in the 50's.
Hank, decided to post on your thread instead of emailing. Auburn 9", clutch plate and Albro 9" aluminum flywheel. Tom
I've read old articles that mention these but what was considered the advantage over a long style pressure plate? Just lighter mass and easier release? Were they interchangeable with the stock Ford one as far as flywheel drilling and throw out bearing?
I have seen similar clutch PP in tractors and such, I don't see any benefit to PP, alum flywheel is another thing.
"I don't see any benefit to PP, alum flywheel is another thing". The reason "auburn" pressure plates were used back in the day, was weight. A nine inch Auburn pressure plate is 20% lighter than a corresponding Ford pressure plate. Tom
Hi Tom I too have one of these albro flywheels for my 51 plymouth flathead but haven't used it. My car came w the borg and beck but the manual also lists an Auburn clutch interchangibly. Have you used one of these light flywheel and auburn setups on the street and what was your experience with it. From what I can tell on this forum, people don't like them because they don't provide enough "inertia" and or hard to drive, lots of slipping from a stop. Having never used one I can't tell what this would mean or more importantly if the driving experience is acceptable...ha Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thx Mike
Do these auburn clutch plates use a special clutch disc specifically for auburn clutch or can any disc be used such as usually used w a borg beck or ford long clutch plate. Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated ...thx
In the flathead plymouth world, I was told these became a substitute for borg and beck clutches in early 1950s during Korean war due to shortages of borg beck but I can't confirm. This was mentioned in passing by an old plymouth hot rodder, Daytona Beach racer.
I don't have any experience with Auburn pressure plates and aluminum flywheels, but I've talked to two people that did. One guy liked it, the other guy didn't. I think it depends on the total package, size of the engine, cam shaft specs, transmission cluster gear, and rear axle ratio. I'm going to use these parts in a '32 highboy roadster with a 276 c.i. engine, 29 tooth cluster gear, 3:78 ring and pinion with a Columbia. If it doesn't work to my satisfaction, I'll change it. It'd just a matter of nuts and bolts. Tom P.S. the Ford clutch disc works with the Auburn pressure plate.
I has my set up here now, but its a 10”. But it will take time before I know. I do has a new McLeod 10” in case. I like the light flywheel but its no steel surface on my. ( I might can install one ) My car will be light ( 5W coupe and no fenders and std frame ) and with a supercharged Adurn FH it will be + 300 HP and some TQ. Transmission is Lincoln 39 and its a 2.20 first gear and as I has a QC I can change gears easy but say I run 4.11 and tires is 28” tall ( 7.50 ) If a std Ford disc I hope it will move less issues. -Anyone on driving experiance on this stuff is good to know
They are stock for WW2 jeeps and a few years after, works nice but i honestly do no see the big advantage with it being without the centrifugal weights. I just replaced a worn out Ford flathead V8 clutch with a stock 10 inch properly rebuilt by Fort Worth clutch company. It works super smooth and is very easy to disengage, plus it has the weight on it for better grip.
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