Hot Rods Ford 9" Rear End May Be 1-1/2" Too Wide..Can I Get Different Wheels?

I think my stock 1937 Lasalle rear end was 49" Drum to drum, not sure of the precise dimensions at the moment. I do know the Ford 9" rear end is exactly 1 1/2" wider drum to drum, outside dimensions. I have a 1970 Ford pick up rear end and I carefully measured drum to drum, outside dimensions.
I don't know precisely how much rear fender clearance I had on the car from fender to sidewall with the stock rear end.
I am hoping the Ford rear end will fit, but if it doesn't it could not be more than 1/2-3/4" too wide.
I looked at the stock 16" wheels I am using and there is of course a hole in the center, but it is flanged to the inside of the brake drum, not the outside. It appears as though I can gain 1/4" if I machine the flange protrusion off, as of now the flange ****s up against the drum.
And/or, can anyone suggest a wheel modification, other wheels with 5 1/2" bolt pattern I might use?
I installed the stock LaSalle rear end during the build and was later convinced it wasn't man enough to handle the 500" Cadillac I've installed, so I put the Ford in with very little trouble. I cut the U bolt brackets off the LaSalle, surgically, and was able to re-install them on the Ford, they fit perfectly. They're not welded at the moment as I have to wait until I get all the body weight on the car to set the pinion angle.
If the stock LaSalle had an inch on either side for tire clearance I'll be OK, but if was less I could have a problem.

 

I believe the early '50s Ford pick up wheels had a large offset that you might be looking for. They were 5" or 6" wide with 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

 

1957-1972 pickup is 61.25" drum to drum, so most likely the LaSalle rear is 59". Some early 80s F100 pickups used a 5 x 4.5" pattern, but most are 5 x 5.5". Measure the backspace you have now, what you need, and go from there. 16" ones will be harder to find.

 

I “made” exactly what you are looking for. I used a 15 in ford center with a 7 in Chevy outer. I “dry mounted” the center into the outer but instead of a reversed wheel, I positioned the center so I had as much backspacing as possible which “throws” the wheels inboard as much as possible. I would look for a fairly narrow outer wheel(5 to 5.5 at the width) and mount the center so you have as much backspacing as possible which tends to move the wheels inboard to try and overcome the excessive width of your chosen rear end. Mount the wheel to a drum or disc and carefully tap the center until you get the wheel to track without any discernible “wobble” then weld the center to the outer. This 7 in wide Chevy outer has 5.5 inches of backspacing effectively narrowing the track of the vehicle.

 

This is a 50 merc wheel on an early bronco rear with 10 x 2.5 brakes

 

Olds Toronado
Will need to redrill axle bolt pattern.

 

A stock 15 inch x 5-1/2 Ford pickup wheel from the late 60's early 70's doesn't have a lot of offset. I like Flatheadjohn47's idea of reworking the wheel to move the rim in though. That might be somethign to discuss with Wheelkid.

 

First off no F100 (53-56) was ever a 5 on 4.5. ALL Ford trucks were 5 on 5.5 into the 90s (I believe).

Do you want to stay with 16" or do you want 15" wheels?. New car wheels (fwd) have a good offset but look bad.

BOTH size wheels you have inner bump:


And outer bump:


Outer bump is easier to find and cheaper (BOTH sizes).

If you're looking at a 16" you will need to unrivet and move the center or use a different hoop as these are narrow.

If you're looking at 15" you might be able to find an offset you want AND you can unrivet and move around the center as these are wider.


I've put used hoops on my Chevy panel wheels to get 16x6 wheels with 40/50s Chevy centers and I'm planning to re hoop some 16" Packard wheels to get wider wheels with a different offset.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-steel-wheel-tech.115542/

 

I had the offset on both my OEM rear rims reworked for new DOT tyres when I removed the slicks on my car. They were spun up in a lathe and cut, then reset to my specifications and rewelded.

 

Reworking wheels is one way to fix the issue. May complicate finding a replacement if needed down the road, but probably a better fix than some of the newer OEM wheels. If you can't find some wheels to fit, instead of making custom wheels I would shorten one side of the axle housing 1 1/2", if that's the number. Having done both, I can shorten a housing faster than making two wheels. But that could just be me as I am super fussy building wheels.

 

1937 Lasalle wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 5 .

 

I had 10” wide wheels with 7” of backspacing on my Model A because the rear was way too wide. It was a ‘70 Dodge truck 8 3/4 rear. Later I went to 7” wide wheels with 4.5” backspacing.
A lot of the companies that offer a steel wheel can give you a custom backspacing to fit your need.

 

@ramblin dan. This is the most comprehensive list I've seen. Nice work...
One more to add, International pickup.
16" wheels thru the '40s, 5 on 4-1/2". Hub cap nubs are internal, same as early Ford '41-'48. Wheels have 1" more positive offset. 4.5" wide, iirc.
15" wheels thru '50s, also 5 on 4-1/2", same centers as above. Take Ford cap, '41-'48. Nice for 'filling up' a rear fender well. Believe the 15" was 5" wide, maybe 5.5".
Cheers.

 

I do not see anyone who mentioned 5 on 4.5 except you......

 

Back when Hot Rod actually printed tech. I still have that issue

 

See post #3

I was curious about a ford PU with 5x4.5 also ?????

 

^^^^ Falcon Ranchero V8

 

I had a 1981 F100 2wd flare side that was 5 x 4.5. According to the web, light duty F100 1980 thru 1983 (last year for the F100) came 5 x 4.5 if it had power brakes, hence my post.

 

My stock LaSalle wheels are 5 1/2 for certain...they fits the Ford rear end, so it must be. Lots of great info here,
thanks.

 

Lots of great info here and all is really appreciated. I'll find out for certain in the next two
weeks as all of the car is painted now except the body and that'll be done very soon. Then I
will be able to see precisely what the clearance is or isn't on the rear. I think I'd like to stay with the 16's but no exact reason other than I want to make sure there isn't a gap between the top of the fender and the wheel. Thanks to all who have replied, I feel a lot more confident that I can get by without taking out the rear end and narrowing it.

 

Nice job, I'll do this if I have to..thanks for the help.

 

I believe you and even though I measured twice I got 61.50 width, so I ***ume you are right which means I just gained a quarter inch which may be all I need. I put a 'strut' on each brake drum, held in place by a lug nut and measured inside to inside and kept getting 61 1/2"..but I used a tape measure from the rivet end, which we shouldn't trust, so I may well have been off a quarter. Thanks.

 

Who is WheelKid, and how to correspond? Thanks, I may need him.

 

If you did it, then maybe I can too..so looking for a supplier.

 

Your rear axle may very well be 61-1/2" due to the variations in the rear brake shoe width. Since the body is off, the easiest thing to do is set the wheel and tire combo in the fenders where you want them and measure the distance you need.
Most vehicles of that era had a zero-offset wheel, meaning the wheel center was "centered" width wise in the rim. Having a wider axle from stock will require positive offset, which at some point will become unobtainable due to rim width, or even structurally dangerous.
The axle you have is one of the narrowest 9 inch 5 x 5.5 Ford made. Since the pinion is off centered in that rear, narrowing it is a good option.

 

So your wheel to wheel is 1 ½" too long? What's the axle offset? Old cars are in the middle but that Ford axle probably has an offset. Check whatcha got now from pinion to wheel each side. My guess is 1 side of the truck is too long.

Punchline; you might be able to simply cut 1 side, including the axle at the splines. Some Ford truck axles have 2-3 times the needed length of spline available so a chop saw and easy bevel is all u need. Or just take off 1" because ¼ on each side won't be a consequence and you can get closer to center or a mild offset. Rear axles are a pretty "digestive" part. Takes a lot to screw em up.

Narrowing, cut the end off as square as humanly possible, same with what's removed. Stuff a wet rag inside and clean the joint, bevel the ends, tack 4 sides, burn that ******* back together. I dunno about the rest but I'd rather make the axle what I want than end up with a 1 off pair of wheels. Whatcha gonna do if you bend 1 up? Go to that expense and trouble again? Check the splines in the axles.

 

Nice job. Overall, it wouldn't be too much of a task to shorten one side of my Ford rear end so I think that's my best option rather than scouting wheels, dis-***embling the originals, etc.

 

I've never personally shortened an axle but I THINK the Ford 9" is offset 1 1/2" to the right, so once again I think I can shorten just the left side 1 1/2" and then use my stock wheels. Which by the way, happen to have a damn LIP turned inward toward the drum (from the center hole) as the LaSalle has a GROOVE in the brake drum that meets this groove, so I'll have to turn it off also. Any advice on shortening the axle. I found a man who has a jig to weld it back together, but you've been there and done it. Thanks so much for the advice.