Projects 1929 Chevy parallel leaf racer

Hey everyone - looooong time lurker here just about to embark on my new build and looking to share in the hope of gaining some advice and insight too.

It's a Holden-bodied 29 Chevy AC International that's been rescued out of a paddock in the wheat belt of Western Australia.

If we want these builds to be road-registered in Australia, we have to submit documented chassis plans and specifications for a build number and then undergo three build inspections (chassis, body and drivetrain, complete) for registration.

I like driving my creations, so I'll be heading down this route.

Its more of a Santa-Barbara TROG / Pendine Sands spec, than an earlier Wildwood spec. Its a bit of a cross between a rat rod and a gow-job.

We have specific requirements in Australia for registration so please don't throw the book at me because it's not period correct.

I'm trying to keep everything with some lineage to 1953-54 maximum, so far I've got a 1953 Chevy 3104 front and rear axle, Buick 215 / Rover V8 and will be running a BW65 auto to keep things easy for the moment.

I don't know whether to run with a farm-boy dug-it-out-of-a-shed look or a brushed enamel paint job yet, so open to ideas.

I also have an Instagram account as more of a story-board than social media (Pinterest is pretty poor for rodding content) so feel free to pitch in there too.

Here's what the car looked like originally, versus how I got it.

 

Here's how it sits at the moment.

 

I've secured a 37 Ford centre crossmember for triangulation (needed for registration).

I will make the 37 section fit the 29 rails.

This was off a wrecked chassis and one of the last good bits left, albeit still a bit bent and needing some work.

I still have the running boards in OK condition if anyone is looking for a pair.

 

Neato! Definitely keep us updated, looks like a promising build.
Any specific cars or features you're trying to emulate? Or just going for a general feel of a '30s racer?

 

Hey thanks! I tend to think and visualise for a long time, and then just execute a build.

Trying to bring something like this into the world, but with a distinct Aussie claypan / salt racer edge. So more of a later gow-job but yes - a (late) 30s racer.

I also really like the rear treatment of the Aladdin rod last seen about a decade ago - specifically the way the rear doors are used to wrap the fuel tank with no 'tub'

So kinda combine the two...?

 

I'll be watching! When I find out more about what an "Aussie claypan /salt racer" is like I'll add my 2 cents. I do like the way that 499 is shortened, may need to come down some. If you look at my avatar speedster, the stock wheelbase is too long. (27 Chevy)
Be safe Have fun!

 

Real Hot Rods Rule !

 

I'll be watching. Go for it!

 

Cheers! Here's my chassis build plan - you can see how much I'm shortening the chassis. You're right - they're too long for a speedster.

I'm using shorter trailer springs for the front, which brings the front axle forward about 3 inches and then using the front springs for the rear, bringing that axle forward 7 inches.

Overall it shortens the chassis by about 14 inches

 

Subscribed...a parallel leafed speedster is on my bucket build list in the near future

 

I've been using trailer springs under my Hot Rods for 45+ years, being creative is what TRUE Hot Rod guys do.

 

The old 20' split rims made their way onto another claypan racer build, this is them.



Issue is, in Australia, we have to run a minimum 5in rim for registration and S rated tires. So the Firestone/Coker look it out unless I drop a few g on radials like Stahl Sports or the like.

That's a hard no for me.

I've decided I really like the old speedway look, per below - but I'll be using these 16x6 rims for the rear (with 225/95s) and narrowing them to 5in for the front (with 185/75s).




Narrowing the fronts from the inside of the rim will give me another inch of track across the front- which is great because the front is 3in narrower than the rear as factory from the 3104 donor - so now only 2in which is much better.

 

I unwrapped the Rover V8 today.



It's got an edelbrock dual plane manifold and a torqueflite 727 adaptor plate stuck to it...! That'll have to go.

I've also got a rebuilt, oddball 450 Economaster to go on it, with a spread-bore adaptor.

 

Pulled the block out (still turn over!) and mounted the chassis to a chest height rolling jig to shorten the rear and and fit the 37 ford centre x member.

 

Cool, I have the same frame that I snagged from some rat rod dude who had already hacked the rear crossmember out.




Being as the rear crossmember is missing I pulled the rails in so tey are straight from just in back of the transmisison crossmember.

I've got a Chevy pickup that is probably around a 40 and am running a 55 Chevy pickup open drive rear axle. Mine is an odd ball as I have a 51 Ford Flathead six for it. 18 inch 32? Chevy wires. I've got Huck brakes on the front but am going to have to run spacers on the rear to get the wheels to fit the drum.

Mine has been a slow go as I just flat have too many other irons in the fire taking up my time. Tires and tubes will probably be the most expensive part of the whole car when it is done as most of it is cast off items I have or what friends gave me for it.

 

That sounds awesome - what a great bitser. The Chevy chassis' are so strong compared to most, and the rear crossmember is so big and heavy. It's really overkill.

Although they're in high demand because they were always damaged and bent - being so thick they were insanely hard to repair.

I'd love to see any more pictures you have, or a build thread / insta page...?

 

Started checking out what needs repairing.

Looking for advice - first up is the front spring hanger mount - are these ovalled os has the brass bush just worn away? Should I just drill it out and fit a new one?

Also I have some decent pitting on the top of one chassis rail. How far is too-far-gone and should be replaced? Which pic (1,2 or 3) is the threshold for "is fine don't worry about it"?

Thanks for any advice. Cheers.

 

Here's the front crossmember! Lots of replacement pieces needed.

 

The spring hangers might need to be bored out slightly and an oversized bushing used. The pitting doesn't look that bad to me, I'd sand blast the pits and fill them. Or weld up the really deep ones.

 

The pitting isn't too bad but the side looks horrible

 

I think that's just the light - the sides are straight with no issue, just paint flake and some surface rust. Is that what you mean?

 

I think I might replace it with new metal after sleeping on it.

I like your idea, I'll press out the bush and ream it out on the dress press. Thanks.