Slowly it's coming together and then another ooops. I had the compressor bracket for the right side, then realize the radiator hose is in the way. Ordered left side bracket and it's on back order for 3 wks. Get the new bracket go to bolt it up and can only get 2 of the 3 bolts in, bolt holes in the bracket are off. Now I'm dealing with that replacement. I did go ahead a put the compressor in place to do a little mock up. Looks like I need to fab a idler pulley to clear the water pump. I need to modify the rear evaporator bracket a little. The wiring will be pretty simple, my rewire kit supplied all the wiring to tie into the ac wiring harness.
I have my steering column out to replace the seals at the fire wall. After looking at it, I think I'll repaint it. I have an automatic. I have it apart except for separating the shift column form the steering column. The gear range pointer is all that is keeping me from removing the shift column. Am I correct in ***uming this is a press on piece.
Here's my prototype for my ac belt idler pulley and the working results. It took 3 trips to the napa for the correct belt, one to short, one to long and one just right.
Well the old Ford has heat for the first time in it's 68 year life. When I pulled the steering column to replace the toe board seals I found this. I ordered a new one and a few other things. When the order arrived everything came except the shift indicator. So here's my work around. I epoxied a peace of kydex over the broken area and drill for the screws. I've gotten the turn signal switch back in and plugged the wiring back in. Ok so now I start it up to check for heat and leaks. It's good to go. But now my temp gauge is showing hot. Checked with an inferred temp gun and the temp is find. The gauge has been working great sense I had it repaired last year. First thing tomorrow I'll check the sending unit.
Good progress. You probably still won't need the heat for a while in Tallah***ee. Are you going with an under dash AC unit?
Fairlane 62 it's a under dash unit but it's a little wider that the mustang style unit I started to use. I changed my mine on it because it didn't have defrost. The way our winters are if you go any where early you need a little heat, on the way back you use the ac.
Great looking work! I get to do that in a few months time as well. How did you cut the spot welds from the inner rockers? Mike
Mike I didn't have a special tool, just a side grinder and a cold chisel. Once it would pop loose then grind off the remaining spot.
Yes defrost is a definite benefit. I got tired of carrying a towel to wipe the condensation off the windshield. James
I taking the car to my buddies tomorrow to pull a vacuum on the ac, should be running with ac after that. The weather man is forecasting some 40 degree mornings next week, may get to check the heat also.
Well we hooked up the vacuum this morning and it wouldn't pull any vacuum. Found a connector that was loose, tightened it and it began to pull vacuum. Pulled down to 30 kept it running for a while then let it set for 30 minutes or so and it stayed right there. Added freon and it started cooling like a champ. Took it down the road a ways and back it was nice and cold. We talked for a while and I took off home, as soon as I got down the road it quit blowing as cold. When I got it home went back over all the connector to make sure they were tight. The last one was the high pressure at the compressor. I put the wrench on it and grabbed the fitting and I felt oil. There was my leak. I pulled that line off and recrimped it. We're gonna try it again after church tomorrow.
Also check the shraeder valves that came with fill fittings. I never thought about them being loose from the supplier, but 2 of mine were, creating leaks that were hard to find as the plastic caps can seal them off somewhat
They make a spot-weld cutting tool specifically for this. I got mine from my local paint/body supply shop. It has a pilot and cuts about a 1/2" dia. ring. Mine was a known brand..not sure about these on Ebay, especially the multi-piece kits for cheap $ ref: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293641700862?hash=item445e68c5fe:g:t3EAAOSwtTlfBqdp&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAsGHGj/MxKYN5h/14EVMV0Yeilcstbxq4lxRXdTTKROVqboo1ZOfRKsJrQMp6DbLt/leyD/Pjm5dsJxGVC6silquhfIh7X1Ez1AOBB7NrsfiWjI6Rzdg6wC8sUmn6TARET1+H0vjaynxlpXvjjkFA554Pg1SB/3/e+ReTu3Lw96QolyuT6NakIF5fuA2SYVwM1B1Cl5zZyDJ5pY67arZWhu0TVuWPhUkAkn5UNiB0xqAk|tkp:Bk9SR4reuJX8YA
Hi, If it is not to late, I make reproduction shift lens for Fordamatics and C4 or AOD lenses for 54 Fords. If you would like to see them send me your phone number and I will text them to you. Dave
Take a look at what I pulled out of my mail box a couple of days ago. Don't look too close or you'll see where I chipped the new paint putting the pin back in the shift lever collar. Thanks again Dave.
I swapped out my temp sender, started it up and found this. If I had any hair before it would be gone now.
Well I'm way over due for a update. I replaced the cracked original intake with a Weiand 8124 intake. I used a 2 barrel adapter to continue using my Motorcraft 2150. I did need to use a different heater hose fitting in order to get my distributor to drop back in. I had to have a new high side compressor hose made and got it back on. With the holidays and other things it was after the first of the year before I was able pull a vacuum and get Freon back in it. I'm finally good for what ever temperature comes along. I had to modify the hood latch ***embly a little to get clearance at the condenser. I cut the latch at the red and yellow lines and added a tab to reattach the spring show in the pictures below. There is more clearance than it appears in the picture. I have also make a truck divider panel and have it installed.
HOT ROD PRIMER used to have a blog up that had pictures of the entire project step by step with pictures, wish it was still up to see, lots of valuable information and build tips.
Rear springs bushings. Maybe this will save someone some leg work. I just replace the rear spring bushing on my 54 customline. All the bushings are the same and it took 3 sets (12) to replace them all. I ordered Energy Suspension bushings from Autozone. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9176
JeffB2, I used a piece of cardboard large enough to go from the side panel out past the wheel well. I marked and trimmed until it fit and flipped it over to the other side to make sure it also fit that side. I measure several places to get the length and height. I should have made a center height measurement, it had a little more curve in the center than I thought. I laid out my measurement on my panel and used the cardboard templet on each side.
Jeff, a method I have used which works quite well is to cut a piece of matboard (preferred) or cardboard smaller than needed in areas with contoured edges. It's temporarily held in place, then small pieces of chipboard are cut to the required shape and then glued/taped to the larger piece. you just go around the periphery until it's complete. The chipboard can be cut easily and accurately with scissors. I often use one of those profile gages with the moveable "fingers" to duplicate the shape in small sections at a time. Hope that makes sense.
Regrettably, photobucket hijacked my blog but I was able to save the photo's but not the commentary, the photo's are HERE. Due to the way I had to down load they are backwards, the sequence starts on page 45 and goes backwards. I am trying to recoup the blog but as yet not be successful. HRP
Thanks for posting HOTRODPRIMER. I saw some of your post shortly after I got my 54 as well as the pictures you post here a while ago. Your work is inspiring. I really like what you did to your dash for your gauges and the tip for indicator lenses on page 29 in your photo link.
One more thing marked off the to do list. I was able to get the AOD detents to line up with my new gear indicator. I had to make a bracket to extend the shift linkage on the trans. It extended the cable connection point about 1-1/4in.
The Jalopy Journal
