I have a set of split headers on my 226 and glass packs out the back. The old motor is running lean and dies at WOT. Currently I have the Holley version of the 8HA carb on there with the bigger jet. I swapped out the mid section of the two carbs to get a vacuum advance port again as the Holley lacks one. I have a smaller jet from the 8HA and a bigger one from the Holley. I have a six volt pump with a dial regulator feeding it. Does a two barrel carb exist that would marry up to the stock foot print on those manifolds? I definitely need more fuel going down the chute. Thanks!
The only way you're going to bolt a two barrel to the stock intake manifold is with an aftermarket adapter. Are you running heat to the bottom of the intake?
I'd be checking fuel flow before anything else. Pump good? Fuel lines good? Regulator good? Fuel filter good? you get the picture,
I would check it with a timing light to make sure it's advancing when the engine is revved. The HA will have a Loadomatic, vacuum only advance.
The short answer is no for direct bolt on. I would use a LOM compatible 3 bolt 22bl (8BA-Ford 94) with a 2 bolt to 3 bolt adapter. Adapters do exist for this, but it's been a while.
Did the problem exist before you changed the carb midsection? Generally, in carbs the jets regulate max fuel flow during mid-range/cruise conditions. For WOT the power valve/economizer valve add the additional fuel needed. As Johnny Gee mentioned you may have a fuel supply problem. When the engine dies does it just cut off, or for lack of better terms, does it feel like it is running out or falling on its face. If the latter, and it comes back when you let off the gas, that is a good indication of lack of fuel supply to the carb. Somewhere in your specs or diagnostic info should be a test where you measure fuel pump volume output.
Yes it’s just like you say where it dies at high rpm and then if I let off for a bit, it comes back to life and it’ll bomb start itself again. It happens at the top of second when I’m reaching for the shift, but on the highway at lower rpm it is alright up to 75mph
I found the problem: the 8HA carb wasn’t shooting a stream from the accelerator pump. I thought I should take it apart to see why. When I filled the accelerator pump well with a light oil and pushed down on the pump, it would hydraulically lock and absolutely nothing would squirt out of the discharge port. It turns out is a big fat brass needle hiding in a vertical hole at the end of the complex accelerator discharge fluid pathway. It was so corroded in there that it looked like a brass plug, but when we were studying it, it didn’t make sense that it didn’t move to let gas through. So I had to tap around the casting with a light hammer, and lightly tap the tiny brass dome I could see, and then I hit the tiny port in the bottom of the accelerator pump well with compressed air. The brass needle launched out with a bunch of dirty crap and corrosion. The other tiny port at the bottom of the accelerator pump well is the ball valve that lets fuel in there from the fuel bowl. I got that moving too with some poking around and compressed air. When I blew through the port to the fuel bowl, the little ball pushed the circular brass retainer clip out of the way in the well and the ball flew out and hit my boot and screwed off under the bench but I found him and put it back. Once the whole thing was reassembled on the motor, the accelerator pump is now operating and the entire nature of the car has changed. It’s running better than it ever has with a smooth idle and tons of power. So even though the car would accelerate away just fine, and it could cruise at 75mph, it idled poorly and was tuned to run rich and then it would lean out when I stomped on the gas.
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