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Projects FED frame identification?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by farmer013, Oct 19, 2022.

  1. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 98

    farmer013
    Member

    Hey guys! I know this is a long shot, but I'm wondering if anyone could I'd a Fed ch***is I've recently came across. These are the only pics I've got at the moment but I'm gonna look at it in a couple days. Parts of it look kind of scared together over the years but some things like the old roll cage and front end make it look like it was a properly done carat one time.
    The only thing that I was could figure that could stick out as a being able to ID the ch***is was the shoulder hoop (2 90° bends instead of one big bend which seemed to be the popular way back in the day).
    The car is in the Okanogan british columbia.
    On a side note has anyone got any experience resurrecting an old ch***is like this to meet current sfi specs?. Nothing crazy just something to throw a small block in and have fun. obviously the cage would have to be updated, but what else.
    Thanks in advance Facebook_creation_317999907.jpg Facebook_creation_317919386.jpg Facebook_creation_317914367.jpg
     

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  2. rlsteel
    Joined: Apr 10, 2005
    Posts: 523

    rlsteel
    Member

    If it has a ch***is # nhra may be able to help.
     
  3. That roll cage will only let you play the Cackkell game or maybe a few p***es at Outlaw tracks. Any N.H.R.A. event won't even let you unload it. Kool piece thow.
     
  4. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,467

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

    Yep. Went through this about a year back with my FED build.
    For an old ch***is, it is easy enough to run as a cackle car.
    To run it in anything other than outlaw, it will cost a small fortune to update to meet IHRA/NHRA spec. If you are doing this because you want to run something historic, it might make (expensive) sense. You get something that has history attached to it in the end, albeit the looks will change considerably.
    If you are really just after a FED to run that looks as old as it can but meets modern spec (i.e. not trying to save a historic car) then it is cheaper to build from new.
    YRMV.

    Cheers,
    Harv
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  5. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    The first thing is to have it inspected by an NHRA ch***is cert guy. he will measure the tubes and sonic check for thickness. you will receive a rejection paper with all the issues marked. and what updates needed to p***. From that point you can decide on what direction you want to go with it. Adding extra cage hoops and some uprights are minor issues and can be done by a competent shop. But when you get into upper and lower frame rails behind the engine that don't meet the current spec, then at that point you are better off building new or look somewhere else. Also take into consideration the amount of rust (on exposed metal) and the weld quality. This inspection will cost you some money, but will give you the direct answer you are looking for
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  6. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    NHRA does not keep those records on file, they throw them out after the inspection date expires every 3 years
     
  7. Let's hope the builder of the car isn't the same guy who built the red part of the trailer :D

    Seems the original location of the trailer coupler wasn't satisfactory for some reason :rolleyes:o_O
     
  8. If the price was right I'd buy it and mount it sideways on the Shop Wall just for a Kool old conversation piece. That's about all I see in true value. Maybe I'm wrong.
     
  9. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    At first the round back was a popular style design, but uncomfortable for larger drivers and throw in thicker driving suits, made it worse. The square back design offered more comfort as it allowed for adjustment for a wider upper hoop, your shoulders were flat in the seat instead of rolled in, and the availability of a 6" radius bending die-set over a 10" die. Square shoulder hoop is not unique to any particular builder.
    As there were 100's of dragsters built, more often these cars were either small shops or homebuilt
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.

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