Well....actually it does but the latch is adjusted all the way up and you have to slam it! The back of the decklid stands 1/4" above the rest of the body......... and, the gap at the bottom is 3/8"......... You can see the indention in the weatherstripping where it contacts the top of the lip, which I ***ume is how it's supposed to be. I've even set 100lbs of weights on the decklid for a week hoping that would squash it down but, no joy. Any ideas on how to get the decklid flush with the body and close that lower gap? All I can come up with is shaving the weatherstripping down but I don't really want to do that.
You removed the deck lid when you had the interior cut in? Have you tried adjusting the deck lid hinges? That is where the problem is. Or the hinges are sprung/worn. No more sand bags.
My trunk hinges were so loose when i removed the springs that i put the rivets on the anvill and a few good wacks expanded the rivets enough to take all the slop out of them. Probably not the correct way but it worked good for me. Now i jus keep everything oiled well. 2 years and the hinges seem tight still. Its hard to tell with the spring installed. good luck..jim
I ***umed the hinges were OK. The decklid closed fine before I added the new weatherstripping. It was flush with the top and all gaps were fairly even.
You might want to remove the springs and adjust. If adjust OK and after adding springs it stands up, it would most likely be the hinges worn. Is the gasket much thicker than the take-off?
The hinges look like they're adjusted all the way down. I'm wondering if I can remove the decklid then the hinge and open up those adjustment slots a little. There's about 3/8" to work with on the top. Also, do the springs really need to come off? Can't they just be removed with the hinge? And yes, the gasket is much thicker than the original 'cause there wasn't very much of the original left.
This is what I am thinking. There was no excessive pressure on the hinge pins on closing before as the gasket was defective. The new gasket thickness is causing possible worn rivet holes to allow the hinge pivot pins to move within their bores as evidenced by the present hinge adjustment (fully down). Same as a door hinge. Do you have a WORKSHOP MANUAL?
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