I bought a 1964 Comet 404, 4 door car a few months ago. It has a 200 six with a 2 speed auto trans. Engine has 96000 miles on it and is tired! I just got a 200 six with a 3 speed trans that has 26000 miles on it from a 66 Mustang. Seller is going to a V8 swap! I recently had my left leg amputated, so the 3 speed is out of the question! I know there are not a lot of fans of the 2 speed automatic, but it is shifting well and is is a better choice for me. Only had the 66 model 200 and 3 speed combo for a week now. My question is, will the 66 engine fit to my 2 speed trans? I did notice right off that the 66 engine has a 2 bolt starter and my 64 has a 3 bolt starter. Would like to pull just the engine from the 64 and mate it to the 2 speed that's in it! Is it just a matter of separating the 3 speed from the 66 engine, (clutch, pressure plate,etc) and putting the flywheel from my 64 to get the two to mate together? Any info will be very welcomed! Thanks in advance!!
don't forget to remove the pilot nearing, the rest is easy as you said. I don't think the block will interfere with the starter, as the bellhousing determines where it's located. Sorry to hear about your leg.
The starters indicate the flywheel/flexplate diameter. A 3-bolt starter has an 8-1/2" flywheel. A 2-bolt starter has a 9" one. Those two different sizes also have two different bellhousing patterns. The early 6, in the Falcon has only the small pattern. Later ones only had the larger pattern. Here's the trick, in mid 1960's, these blocks were dual drilled, with BOTH patterns! The trouble is, I cannot confirm when that ended. This is a single-pattern 8-1/2" bell block: This is is a dual-pattern block: The bottom two bolts are the same on both patterns. You will need to verify that you have a dual pattern 200. If it started out life on the big pattern, and you need to move the alignment dowels. to the alternate positions. Once you do that, it all bolts up. Pull the transmission and bellhousing off of the "new" 200 and confirm what you have.
I’m not sure anymore but isn’t the 2 shifted by throttle pressure . Meaning you must have all of the correct linkage to make it work correctly . My choice would be C4 .
He should have all of that already. He's got a '64 with that transmission, and a 200. I am always a more gears kind of guy, but I get the feeling that he's looking for the path or least resistance (budget) here.
Here's a better picture. If your newer block is dual pattern, you are good-to-go. Swap away. I found the info: "Not all engine blocks are “dual pattern”. The 144 & 170 engines only had the 8.5” set-up. The early 200’s, 1964-66, used the 8.5” set-up. The mid 200’s, 1965-68, had dual pattern blocks. And the late 200 block castings, 1967-1979 only had the 9” set-up. On a side note, the last 200’s, 1980-83 shared the V-8 Small Block Ford block casting. Since I don’t have all the block casting numbers and we’ve had customers with various “stock” configurations, it’s anyone’s guess as to the methodology Ford used to determine which car got what block/trans in the 60’s."
That's the same block that I am running in my '60 Falcon. It is a dual pattern block. Unless you have a production anomaly, that should be dual pattern, too. In other words, put everything from behind your earlier engine on the later one, remembering to remove the pilot bushing, and drive on.
This is the pattern I found after removing the flywheel. It appears to be the dual pattern. Do I use the 3 bolt starter from my 64 engine or the 2 bolt one from the 66 engine? So, now it's just a matter of swapping parts from the old (auto trans), to the 66 engine, right? If I'm missing something, please let me know and thanks for the help!
You would use the 3-bolt starter from your original configuration, as well as every single thing from the crankshaft flange and block bolt surface back. The donor engine was set up to use the larger of the two patterns. In order to use it with the smaller of the two patterns, you will need to pull out and move the two alignment dowels. They are a light press fit. If you grip them with locking pliers, you should be able to pry against the pliers to pull them. Once you put them back in, just in the lower holes, and remove the pilot bushing, everything that was on the old engine should bold right back on to this one. Take care to move everything over that was on the old setup, exactly the way that it was.
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