@Mac VP Thanks for the info. I cleaned the parts up a bit tonight. Wondering if you could take a look at the pics... I thought the synchro rings (last pic) actually looked pretty good. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Whats the condition of the male/female ends of the main shaft and input shaft where the bearing rides ?
All the gear teeth look good enough to me. I'd use them. Surely need to replace the thrust bushings and syncro rings. I'd replace the syncro blocks, balls, and springs too. Can't tell if the bearings are good. Do you have a good machine shop that can polish the input where the seal rides? The rust pits there look like they'd chew up a new seal.
@alchemy Good eye! I went back to look at this area as I thought it was grease/grime dried in place. Upon closer inspection, there WAS rust/pits there. I grabbed a piece of 1500 wet/dry and a can of liquid wrench and got the crud off. Still had some pitting. I'll take it to a guy at work (big pharma, not my fault!) that works in the machine shop and ask him what he thinks.
Those little handheld Wire brushes I see in top photo and 3rd photo are kind of Okay. I advise against using any kind of power-driven wire wheel. You can cause the parts to become magnetized, that's not a good deal. In fact, even with the handheld ones I only use Brass brushes. Better safe than sorry.
Not to sound too critical, but you need to get those parts a tad cleaner. I noticed there still is some oil goop in the recesses between some of the gears. Reason I mention it is, once together and correct, the clearances are pretty close. Any hang ups from grime or sludge can make you thing there is a problem that really isn't there and will drive you crazy trying to figure it out. Maybe a plastic tub with hot water and Simple Green. Let them soak and then pull them out and and blow them off and then spray with some oil. Read Alchemy's post regarding which parts you have that need to be replaced.
@banjorear This was my first pass through kerosene just so I could get a better look at the parts. Some of the “dark” you see is tinted kerosene. I had just pulled them all after a paint brush scrub. For sure, I’ll be soaking again in kerosene followed by a hot water/Dawn mixture. As I said, following the VPS book to a T!!! @Pist-n-Broke Only using the nylon bristle brushes on stubborn stuff. 98% of my scrubbing was with a paint brush. @Outback What magic are you speaking of? And where can I acquire this magic?
The worn surface can be grind off and you can use something like that- https://www.skf.com/group/products/...smission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve
A lot of good information! Quick question…would seals, gaskets and bearings from a 39 rebuild kit work on a 37? Can’t find a rebuild kit for a 37 at all!! I think mine leaks a little
Can you get the machine shop at work to grind the pitted area down to clean metal? Then get it nickel plated oversize, and get it ground back to standard. I've had this done years ago, but don't know if it's affordable nowadays. If you don't have to pay for the grinding, it might be okay.
The Jalopy Journal
