Been doing a little research as I piece together a front end with F1 bendix brakes. Before spending more cash can I please just get someone to look over what I think is corect please? Currently I have a drilled undropped 34 Axle, 32 spring perches and thinking to run 32 - 34 spindles. I understand that this isnt just bolt together but still relatively simple. Can someone confirm what I think is correct is to do this. Buy a set of loaded F1 backing plates and hubs from @RICH B https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...energizing-juice-brakes-reconditioned.1277833 Buy a set of new Bronco drums from major parts supplier. Buy a set of nice OEM 32-34 spindles. Then... Backing plate bolt holes need to be elongated to accept the slightly smaller bolt pattern of the early spindle. Yep I know this isnt everyone`s way of doing it... Any other differences in F1 Bendix backing plates that I woukd need to account for? Need to address the different size between the spindle and backing plate to centre them. Had planned to use something like this. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hydraulic-Brake-Adapter-Rings,3286.html On the inside dispense with the later grease shield and use a Model A through to 35 so bolt pattern matches spindles and further helps securing backing plate. Use 28- 36 bolts to bolt it all together. https://www.earlyfordstore.com/prod...ng-plate-bolt-kit?_pos=5&_sid=94d93bbcf&_ss=r Use 32-34 King Pin kit to attach to axle. https://www.earlyfordstore.com/prod...lete-top-quality?_pos=75&_sid=3ee3b0799&_ss=r F1 bearing kit to run the F1 hubs. 28-35 Spindle washer, and nut F1 dust sheild Have I missed anything, got something wrong? Thanks for all and any help.
Those kingpins won't fit with the wheel cylinder wanting to be in the same place. If you don't have your spindles yet, just buy some 48 spindles and everything will bolt together with the proper combination of parts and bearings (special wheel bearing combo, ask Rich B). No modifications at all.
I modified my 32-34 spindels with weld on rings, and centric ring I had laser cut. Lots of welding and grinding, weld old holes shut and use '40 backing plate as template to redrill new holes. I use the Boling Bros bearing spacer,https://www.bolingbrothers.com/spindle-spacer-pr/ it fits better than the speedway one.
Went through all that work so I could use the top steering arm on drivers spindle, stock drag link and '32 steering box.
The 32-34 spindles as Nealinca had posted elsewhere on the Hamb, did an artful job of m***aging the integral steering arm for a dropped axle application with a handsome flowing bend much like the drop of the axle while retaining the correct steering geometry & the need for an adjustable drag link if so desired.
Well, thats a dandy job you did there Duece ! I did similar, welded a 1/4" square stock around the spindle edge, welded the holes shut, and redrilled for the bigger bolt pattern backing plates. Did some grinding with a flap disc and it looks good. I do not know about the F1 plates, but Rich B will set you straight
I am working on the same thing, I bought a king pin set from the Early Ford Parts Store in San Dimas Ca. they have shortened later king pings and a lower thrust bearing. They also sell all the parts to adapt later juice brakes to the 32-34 spindles. You should give them a call. Sorry it is The Early V8 Garage West Covina Ca. 626-338-2282 Richard and Dennis Lacy
I went a different direction with my 32 pickup. Dropped deuce axle 32/34 spindles with the steering arm bent to match the axle, Early Ford Store kingpins, Boling Brothers Lincoln brakes (direct bolt on to the stock spindles) and Boling Brothers hubs and drums. This is not for the builder on a tight budget but it's how I did it and it worked really great.
The wheel cylinder on F-1 brakes will clear the "knob" on early kingpins. Looks better to trim it some; but be sure to leave enough to support the weight of the car on the bearing. In the past I used a small core (freeze) plug that just fit over the remainder, brazed a piece of 1/4" all thread to it that reached thru the hollow kingpin, and put a nut on the bottom to hold it in. That bearing kit you listed won't work; you need F-1 races and outer bearing along with a 14116 inner bearing and a 473441 seal. Unless you have an "in" at a bearing house, I've found RockAuto to have the best price even considering shipping (at least in the US). The large (piston) ring in the adapter kit from Speedway is kinda big; when compressed in the backing plate it is too small to fit the register of the spindle. Kit from somewhere else may be better; but is likely the same stuff with a brand different name. Little sanding makes it fit; but be careful as they are cast iron rings. Slotted backing plates have been working fine for decades; while all the spindle mods shown are neat; they not really needed. Message me about spindle nuts and dust caps.
There is some great info in this thread. I welded up my backing plates and had a friend re-establish the bolt circle to match the 32/34 spindle on a mill. They turned out nice however the system of adding material to the spindle and re-drilling the spindle is very nice. I have the standard backing plate ring, inner bearing spacer but will purchase the Boling Bros bearing spacer after reading this thread. Thank You
Wonder if welding on the kingpin's top lip changes the qualities of the metal; being the weight of the that corner of the car is supported by that lip? We've used old stock '37-'41 kingpins (the ones where the top is part of the pin vs a crimped on washer like current pins) with a new notch to locate them so they support the bearing in the right place and look cleaner than a trimmed stock pin. No one has brought up using the Torrington needle thrust bearings on bottom side of the axle instead of the standard thrust bearing topside. Any real life reports of the life expectancy of the bearings in this application?
Like I said above I used the V8 kingpin kit that utilizes the needle bearings on the bottom. I've done several of these conversions with no problems to date. I have no negative reports back from my customers using this conversion.
I,m doing the same thing on my 34. 34 axle,stubs and f1 hubs and brakes.Which year bronco brake drums are correct? fronts or rears? last bit of info i need.Glad this was discussed.Johnny
Thankyou Rich! One last question on the subject. Are they the mythical ones which allow you to run ford wires without spaces??? Johnny
Thanks all that have contributed to this thread! Learnt a LOT so far and may change my approach to this. Rich B will reach out shortly via PM. Cheers Pete
Question: does anyone know what the id of the thru-hole in those 32-34 spindles measures? One of my projects is going to use a pair of those spindles, as I want to use the forged on steering arm like mentioned above. I intend to machine the ball socket off, and make a top cap that will bolt on with a thru-bolt or stud, to help support the thrust bearing.
The hole size of the kingpin bore on the spindle is the same from Model A through 1948 on all p***enger cars. That's because they have the same OD size on the kingpins of those years. Sorry I don't know the ID right now. If nobody else has it I can measure tomorrow night.
Well as usual, my bad! The dimension I'm looking for is for thr brake pushrod thru-hole in the kingpin. Engineers and English don't mix too well... So, if anyone has a set and could get me the approximate bore size of that, I'd appreciate it. If you have a set of these kingpins, and a drill index, that's close enough for me. I'm trying to be cheap and not buy a set if I'm going to end up using 37-40 or 46-48 kingpins. Thanks
A 15/32" drill bit just fits thru the hollow center of a NORS '32 kingpin I have. The hole is consistently sized from top to bottom.
Perfect! Thank you for the measurement. What this indicates is that I could take a 7/16 bolt or stud, machine off the brake knuckle, and make an arrangement with a top cap that will support the bearing adequately. Now to buy a couple of sets of those kingpins...
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