Technical Welding a spring perch

Found this crack in the spring perch on my 1936 Ford truck project and I am wondering if something like this could be welded up safely or if it is a deal breaker. It is open through to the bushing.

 

Looks like it could have been there from the factory! Clean it out, tig it up, done (tear it down first - that'll be where the hard work happens!)).

Chris

 

By my eyes that doesn’t look like a crack, more of an imperfection.

 

Thanks, @Happydaze and @Budget36 - now that you mention it, it does look like a defect vs. damage.

 

The hammer marks on the edge could be a clue.

 

Put a piece of br*** on the inside and weld it

 

pull it apart and weld it up looks to me like some cut a bushing out wit a torch and burnt through. you might have to grind it bigger to weld it back in

 

To my 66 year old eyes it appears that the crack travels horizontally to the right when looking really closely...

 

Weld her up and dress her out!

.

 

Thanks all

 

When you repair it be sure to drill a small hole at the end of the crack that extends to the right and "V" it out
for welding. You can just barely see the hair line crack line.

 

^^^^^ What 19Fordy said^^^^^^

 

Will do. Thanks @19Fordy

 

it does look like torch work, burn through from the inside.
I'd take it apart and see what the inside looks like.

 

That is a casting defect......from metal shrinking after the pour.....insufficient molten metal/air bubble during the casting process. It has been there for eons. As others have said......drill the ends and weld it up.

 

Yup, it is from someone burning out the old bushing with an Oxy Acetylene cutting torch. I have seen this many times. It most likely has been there for years but it is fairly easy to weld up.

 

Well, is a replacement cost prohibitive?

 

Br*** or copper will prevent weld getting in the bore. Make sure it's a tight fit (maybe use tubing so you can cut it out if necessary).

 

@Budget36 yes, at this point replacement is not an option.

 

Those parts are forged, not cast.

 

If it was done with a torch there is likely some gouge out under the right end. If you can find a piece of copper/br*** tube of a slightly larger diameter than needed you can cut it longitudinally and it will drive in very snuggly and not be much of a problem to remove. A tube of the same diameter can be cut the same way and spread slightly to achieve a tight fit.

 

I agree it was done with a torch. Probably someone heated it up to try and remove the bushing and they accidently hit the the cut lever on the cutting torch. That's one reason I don't heat metal with a cutting torch, I use a rosebude like you're supposed to.

 

I dunno, a quick hit of O2 wouldn’t cut that much, if it was a torch I’d be thinking someone was trying to gouge it out.
The location of the wound would for it to start where it’s at, the pin would be about a 1/3 of the way down.

 

After you do as @Paul suggested, knock out the old bushing and, if you have a 1/4" die grinder and a Christmas tree shaped burr (second one from the right), bevel the gash all the way to the ends of the cut or crack. If you don't have a die grinder, you can do it with a small grinder but you have more control with the die grinder. Do what @rusty valley suggested and back the weld up from the inside with br***. Then, run a very small stringer p*** down the middle tying the sides together. Let it cool and run another p*** with the puddle just overlapping the sides of the stringer. Make sure when you get to the end that you run your puddle back into the weld before you stop. Let it cool, go back and finish your weld. Knock the br*** out, run a reamer through there to clean up the hole, stick in a new bushing and you're good to go.