Any help would be appreciated! So if you’d measure stock bolt specs, it would be great and I can compare to my heads. I know people looking for 337 hot rod parts too! Thanks Kevin
Thanks for your input and yes, I’m dressing up the 337 as well as improving performance a little. Motor is stock so it’s low compression and I don’t want to blow it up. I agree with torque procedure and lock tire is a great idea- permanent or removable though? I’ll use a straight edge and feelers to start and the light dressing with abrasive sounds good too. I’ve been gathering parts for a while and am almost ready!
You can buy polished aluminum to make radiator hoses at a marine supply vendor. As I live near Ft. Lauderdale, I bought mine here: It was 6061 alum. https://www.pipewelders.com/ You can also make lower radiator hoses from copper tubing and have them chrome plated. See photos below. Check internet suppliers. These folks sell polished stainless tubing. https://www.google.com/search?q=polished+stainless+tubing&sxsrf=ALiCzsaX0MlBjNx_Hg0BYeYdhZtdUmgDig:1667590319335&ei=r2hlY_KAFMK2qtsPmoWfyAM&ved=0ahUKEwiylPWEopX7AhVCm2oFHZrCBzkQ4dUDCBE&oq=polished+stainless+tubing&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQDDIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yCAgAEAUQBxAeMggIABAFEAcQHjoKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzoNCAAQ5AIQ1gQQsAMYAUoECE0YAUoECEEYAEoECEYYAVDFBljfG2D1J2gBcAF4AIAB5wSIAc4PkgELMC43LjEuMS4wLjGYAQCgAQHIAQ3AAQHaAQYIARABGAk&sclient=gws-wiz-serp These folks sell polish aluminum tubing: https://www.google.com/search?q=pol...2j0i22i30l8.6409j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I am going with removable in past builds and I have also used Permatex 2 non-hardening in the tube . For my current build I am going to use a sealant which my friend the bus mechanic uses I believe it's made by Pemex it's workable with future repairs also . Let me research the Loctite numbers and your bolts threads just wipe them up with some MEK and a small nylon brush and same with the threads in the block . I test my bolts by screwing them in 4 threads and you will be able to wiggle the bolt no more than 3/32 " and as you screw the bolt in more turns that play will have been diminished to microns . Plus when you actually torque the bolt in on your final assembly the threads of bolt and block will mesh together and help seal any leakage so yes more help as the engine gets older . The engines I have been working on lately were neglected and most are compromised thread sealing so for me I'm going to use the Pemex or Permatex #2 on the bottom four threads and the Loctite on the threads by the shank . Iv'e not tried it this way but to me it's like nails and hammers - If you want it tight and sealed just do it right and back it up . I like the spec info on the Loctite 567 it's high temperature to 400 F and breaks away at lower torques . One I used in the past on aluminum engines is Loctite 592 PST it's designed for head bolts . I forgot the nuts are fine thread there is a Loctite formulated for fine thread/high temperature . Using Permatex on the bottom and Loctite on the top then the fine thread sealant on the nuts may be overkill but sealing is sealing and I do believe the three-way process is the ticket and after torquing let it all set and cure for a few days then go through your start and warm and shutdown cool and check torque . Are you going to have the heads surfaced ? It's always good to be sure mating surfaces are as flat as you can get them . Start by shaving .005 " and see what happens . Machinists hate setting up and making .005" runs but make sure they realize you have some very special pieces for heads . So don't rush this make sure everything is on a worktable by the car first then start wrenching . That process alone has taken me months and almost to the machine shop so just get everything proper and it will be a success without having to retorque the heads but just check them when done that is your goal . Anything I can suggest or others here do let us know
I bought these for my 324 Rocket https://www.amazon.com/s?k=stainless+steel+90+degree+elbow&crid=3TCM1EIYPQC0G&sprefix=Stainless+steel+90,aps,154&ref=nb_sb_ss_pltr-ranker-24hours_2_18 search around and you can find several vendors
Permatex non-hardening sealer works great on bolt threads. However, be sure to apply antiseize compund on the unthreaded shank portion of the bolts or the studs to prevent the aluminum heads from literally "seizing" to the steel bolts or studs. A friend of mine with a flatty is now dealing with that problem. I have also mixed a dab of antiseize compound with the Permatex sealant to avoid this problem.
The procedure sounds good. Motor is original to the car, rebuilt once and all stock. Not really any slop in threaded areas. Heads are brand new from Ken Austin and are good and flat. They are just finned aluminum repots of stock heads but could be milled to increase compression a bit. Pretty low from factory. I’ll have to check how many bolts penetrate the water jackets. Thanks for all the help! Kevin
Watched an ARP video of lubricating and torquing procedure for bolts, washers studs and nuts- orientation of washers to match radius on bolt heads, lubing underside to nuts or bolt heads, top of washers and threads. Goood advice too!
ARP offers the stud /acorn/washer kit for the Ford/Mercury Flathead V8 , is this the kit your thinking on using ? It has the Stainless Acorn Nuts but I'm trusting ARP has done their engineering and matched their acorn nuts to mesh and seat nicely . Hopefully they can make a Lincoln kit for you , it's a pricey kit but so is thinking you can save a buck and it all goes wrong . This is when the fuzzy dice on the mirror and dice on the cowl panels come in ! Lol From what we have learned and checked and your head thickness is stock ask ARP is they can sell you a sample of one unit of each length you need and fit it up THEN you can smile and order a full set from them . Or do you have another approach in mind ? Almost forgot do count the turns on the bolt holes that bottom out when in fitting stage so you don't torque and bottom out tearing threads up or stressing a deck and a small relief area between bolt and the holes bottom it's for heat expansion like your toes in your boots .
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