well i got the plug out. Need to get the cam bearings yet. And those little threaded plugs. Which someone has definitely messed with before... Gonna have to torch those i would imagine.
Cause he didn't make any money , my uncle Dick Jones and him pretty much ran Indy engine tech in the '60s Uncle Dick built Bobby Unsers winning engine think it was '68 and Smokey was cantankerous and switched teams but I recall Smokey did win one also . I can tell you about Smokey but I gonna pass no need for any more Blabla . I should write one of those books too ' How To Turbo An Offy
I kinda thought from his expression he probably wasn’t getting greased well enough for that shoot, interesting read, seems like quite the guy.
Just leave the plugs alone for now we get to them later if needed . Please can you take a full picture of the cam and the lifters I want to see the lifter bottoms that mate with the cam and did you keep them in order ? Mark everything by the engines firing order/cylinder sequence I feel we should read the engine better than how it's been read in this thread so stop take a breather and think about nothing but a Visual Inspection and parts cleanup . Also do not sandblast any parts . Every engine has a story to be read
Well when i first got the engine i replaced the lifters & pushrods. They were almost all stuck and gummed up. So i was hoping replacing them would solve my problem. (Nope). I didn't keep the old ones... I can get better cam pics. I also messed up and did not keep my rods in order... Which probably isn't good. The reason i wanted to get those plugs out is I'm hoping it would give me more insight into the oiling issue...
The rods go with the specific journal on the crank they all wear different but it's getting a full rebuild so do the best you can and keep the rod caps with the rod they came off of and mark the way they go unless a marking is already in them . It's been since 2011 on me rebuilding a small block Chevy so I forget some details perhaps so I hope for others to help also so I will get out my 1966 Manuals tomorrow perhaps send you some pages you can study and Wanderlust has some hands on books that will also come in handy if he has time to post to you can ask him he has success with them
If you have to use heat to get the plugs out, don't heat the block. Heat the plug, then cool it right away with water. They will almost unscrew by hand! Never heat iron if you don't have to. It can crack or work harden. Get you a plastic water bottle & take your pocket knife & make a little hole in the cap for a water squirter!
I would let it cool on its own, quenching it may harden the plug. If you have to drill it out, it's going to be a bitch.
Letting it cool on it's own defeats the purpose of heating it in the 1st place. It's the RAPID Expansion & Cooling that breaks parts apart. Try it!
Someone mentioned earlier. 62 block has a special rear cam bearing. We have a 62 block build running in our 66 Nova.
Well I won’t discount what you say, because I’ve never tried it. But I’d still go with a welding tip on my OA, try to get the plug close to red, when it got there I’d walk away for a hour or so, make sure by touch all was the same. Then take the plug out. Just don’t do it while things are hot.
NOW CLASS !!! You are not remembering what I told you in a earlier class , HEAT SHRINKS , ALLWAYS !!!
Not according to George when he was out of the pool Edit: was a Seinfeld reference And dang Larry, I thought you were gonna go into a Cheech and Chong thing
I worked in a machine shop for 30 years, tried heating those plugs maybe twice in all that time. Its all apart, you can drill them and use a easy out. Just knock out the front plug first with a long rod, so if you break the easy out you can knock it out from the other end. But the way we got them out when the square rounded was to pound a torx socket into it. The plug is a taper thread and by tapping on it will most times loosen it. Pounding a Torx in gives you 6 sides and they usually come right out.
Larry, Larry, Larry. Objects when heated expand. I'm sorry but that's just the way it is in most instances. Heat em, they expand. Cool em, they contract. Restrained when heated (like a broken bolt) they won't expand out wards restrained by the hole, but they will expand down or up some if allowed by room to do so, but they will still shrink by volume when cooled. - Materials scientists in Japan have discovered a new material that contracts when heated, a rarity. The metal-ceramic composite material is composed of calcium, ruthenium and oxygen atoms. When heated, it shrinks 6.7 percent.Feb 8, 2017 Long time it was talked about fusible plugs in Acetylene cylinders melting. Well do they melt, or do they shrink. That's the question. I'm told the phase change is a shrinking, but it's seen as melting. That's science for you.
Heat shrinks gaps like tolerance between crank rod journal and rod bearing . The tolerance gap is for Heat Expansion and yes I believe donut holes do get smaller with the expansion they experience . What loosens it all up is working on it AS IT COOLS . Not after but During The Cooldown Phase . I did a couple threads on not using heat and a little heat is ok alot in one specific area can change a structure like putting a rubber toy car in the window it gets damaged in one side . Donut holes are good by the dozen in one sitting
Here are some tools I use so I don't spend a lot of cash and I don't get humored at the machine shop with a Rejection Due To Hammer Blows . The 4 lb sledge I just rock it in my hand and lay it down EASY on the workpiece except Freddie needed alot of muscle but Freddie is an exceptional dismantle ( see ' Freddie's Latest ... ' ) The brass hammer is a must and cost over $50 no I didn't get jipped it's what they are now . Faux-brass are 35 . This is a homestyle build with a home&built engine cart and I pilfered a dining chair and had fun tearing up one of those designer tables for it's legs for ergonomics . Ergonomics is as important as safety and also do wear steel or composite toe boots . Mine are composite they lighter . Accidents can happen easily and engines are heavy duty garage projects so stay protected . As for tools get everything you see on the table for accuracy and saving money . You can get so much more and more and more but what you see will get things going . The next phase will require more and start looking for a good quality torque wrench I use the bar type for lb/ft cause I've been doing it for 48 years so you should invest in a good click-o-matic self -ratcheting type 1/2 " torque wrench Harbor Freight has them it was 90 dollars high quality ones start at 200 . The more expensive your tools the more likely for them to walk away . Spend modestly here stay off the Snap-On trucks . I also have a Pittsburgh 3/8 " Click-Type I use for intake etc. and you see the MEK in the back. The half-round chisel is for being careful with cam bearings removal and small light duty and anything out of hand that will compromise the engine should be left to your machinist . This I can clarify as the project advances . Don't forget the donut and eye protection !
Using a brass hammer still requires care as they can't leave marks, a copper one might be a better choice. Also, there are at least three plastic/rubber style heads for soft hammers with varying durometers.
Beng , What kind of tool are you using in that square hole ? The tool should break before you round off the corners,,,,,that’s why it’s square . The hole must be clean,,,,and the tool fully inserted before turning . Tommy
OTOH, water begins to expand at 4ºC slightly until it reaches 0ºC. At 0ºC it expands 9%. That's why you see the sides of blocks cracked or blown out when they had no antifreeze, and why you should not call core plugs freeze plugs.
I agree, I've done it many, many times. Only I would quench it with penetrating oil, which will often flash and start burning, that's OK, extenguish the flame and continue quenching it. It is the rapid shrinking that causes the fastener/plug/fitting to break free from the corrosion between the threads which is what is keeping the plug from coming out. And as it cools and you keep hitting it with the penetrating oil some will be drawn into the threads, helping to loosen it. Sometimes just smacking it with a hammer will break it free, I would try that first; but if it's stuck tight heat it and quench it.
“YEP” when you heat steel and “most” metals they expand , But when they cool they shrink 5 to 7 times the amount they expanded, so they get smaller by a little, think shrinking disc for sheet metal work , welding , steel tires on wooden wheels , black smith work . So before we open that big can of you don’t what your talking about worms,,,, check it out first !!!
Before you pull the cam bearings, make sure, or have machine shop check if you're unsure, that the rear cam bearing is positioned properly. That's one of the steps to determining your oil pressure to rocker issue. If it wasn't in the right place, you've figured out your internal oil leak. If you start taking those out, without checking, you'll never know.
The Jalopy Journal
