Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Vent window removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by T42, Nov 17, 2022.

  1. T42
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 384

    T42
    Member

    The previous owner of my '38 Chevy g***er removed the vent windows. Unfortunately for me, he replaced the windows with plexigl*** and screwed it in with sheet metal screws. I have the original window cranks and want install gl*** windows that I can roll up and down. As you can see from my photos, the doors have not been modified for the one piece gl*** to roll down into.

    I can see what needs to be removed, but was wondering how you guys who removed vent windows proceeded. Im concerned that removing this support metal may cause the door panel to be flimsy.

    Am I just being to **** about the whole process??
    EDIT: I still have the vent windows but do not want to reinstall them.
    20221117_145546.jpg 20221117_145600.jpg 20221117_145610.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2022
  2. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,929

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On a Forty Ford coupe we used sedan window channel because of the length, you might find you will have to fabricate the U channel in the front of the door to accommodate the window felt, it not difficult just time consuming. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  3. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,444

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    Gl*** new bigger/longer shape will need a straight and parallel bottom part of pattern. Start with as much of the stock gl*** channels as you can/the rear should already be right shape. Front will need to be mod. an moved to front of inter door. Make a plywood window to play with tell it all work well; With a stock,but mod crank n lift< that may need to be moved so it pushs in center of new gl*** load/for up n down.
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,561

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have done a few vent window eliminations where there was not a kit to obtain.

    You will need a good gl*** shop to cut the gl***.

    You will need to use the factory track at the rear, and make like track (use the original division bar as a template) for the front. The fuzzy bendable stuff that lines the tracks and frame is available in bulk online.

    And yes, you should reinforce the top of the door. You can put a strip of 1/8" steel under the "sill" and rosette weld it in.

    You would be making the window opening wider, but functionally the same.
     
    Lone Star Mopar and dana barlow like this.
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,561

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    True that, on the load/balance part. It all depends on how it performs once together.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  6. T42
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 384

    T42
    Member

    Does someone make a kit for this? I never even thought of that.....
     
  7. T42
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 384

    T42
    Member

    I pretty much have it all figured out. Its obvious that the metal where the vent window went needs to be removed. That is my only question. I am ***uming the door structure is rigid enough where removing this area will not cause any problems. That is my only concern.
     
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,561

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I do not know. It is possible.

    I have done a whole bunch of OT VW stuff, and some gl*** places make them, and the gl*** for others.

    Some of my customers have gl*** from here: https://www.vintagegl***.com/

    I know that they can do 1-piece door gl***, as I will be getting some for my Falcon.
     
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,561

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    See if it flexes when you close the door. If it does, reinforce it.

    Early Falcons, before Ford used thicker metal, had a problem with cracking at the division bar, from pulling the door closed.

    The metal on your car is thicker, but it is something to look out for, before you get to paint and interior.
     
  10. T42
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 384

    T42
    Member

    Im not concerned with having the gl*** made. I have a gl*** place local that does a great job. Ive had gl*** cut many times before by them. Never had a problem.
     
  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,561

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Make sure that you keep business heading that way!

    Good gl*** shops are disappearing!
     
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,043

    squirrel
    Member

    Take a close look at the door, see if the vent and the door gl*** are on the same plane. Might be that there's a slight bend at the back of the vent window. If there is, you will need to deal with it somehow.
     
    rdscotty likes this.
  13. 34Phil
    Joined: Sep 12, 2016
    Posts: 725

    34Phil
    Member

  14. poco
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 1,779

    poco
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Do the right thing and put the vent windows back in, you will wish later that you did.
     
    Blues4U, BJR, twenty8 and 2 others like this.
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,043

    squirrel
    Member

    I'm glad someone said it....
     
    Blues4U, 57 Fargo and twenty8 like this.
  16. 33 cdan man
    Joined: Sep 15, 2016
    Posts: 195

    33 cdan man

    I am a vent window guy. I will use it until it gets too hot with stop and go traffic. Vents are a big appeal for me.
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  17. '49 Ford Coupe
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,351

    '49 Ford Coupe
    Member

    I removed my vent windows in my '49 Coupe. Installing the single pane window is covered in this gallery on the second page, fourth picture/narrative is where the windows begins. Good luck !!! Oh, and if you are going electric operators, use BALLS operators... they are great.. lifetime warranty and made in America..

    https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/The-Doors/

    And to add to the post above by 34Phil, that website, Hagan, has how-to pictures that I wish I had seen back 10 years ago...
    https://www.haganauto.com/v/vspfiles/files/pdf/UWC install instr.pdf
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2022
    T42 likes this.
  18. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,514

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That new piece of gl*** is gonna be a bit heavy. When someone slams the right door with the gl*** rolled down a bit it may crack.
     
  19. T42
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 384

    T42
    Member

    Thanks for the links! Some great info in them.

    38vent1.jpg 38vent.jpg 20221206_175832.jpg 20221206_175824.jpg I just yesterday got a chance to do some work on the vent removal. I cut out the areas pictured with no problem. I notice a little more flex in the panel but Im going to install a plate in the open area where the vent mechanism bolts up and that will make it strong again. I have the plexigl*** windows for a basic template, but will have to have about 1/4" removed from the outside edge to be able to fit in the new channels. The plexi ones were designed to be screwed in permanently.
     
  20. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,279

    mgtstumpy
    Member

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.