I' m putting a crower Solid lifter cam into my latest build. What are the best solid flat tappet lifters out there these days. It seems all the failures I have been seeing are Hydraulics. I am currently looking at Clay Smith, but am finding in stock issues with all brands, and would like some other sources when I can afford to pull the trigger Just finding a solid lifter cam that was available that met my specs was an issue .
Put a roller in it's my answer, make sure to put the lifters in and put the cam in rotate the the cam with a speed handle and make sure all the lifters rotate. Last couple I had had to send to S and S to have the lifter bores resized.
https://www.howardscams.com/mechanical-flat-tappet-tool-steel-lifters-chevy-howards-cams-91105-1 Above are in my opinion the best Solid Lifters available today. I have a set in my 39, and they work flawless and broke in instantly. They are not cheap at around 35 bucks each, but if lubed and installed properly they will last forever and give no issue at all. That being said, i have also had great luck with the Speedway brand solid lifters as well. That is a choice you have to be willing to make, but I feel the key to any cam install, is making sure that the lifter rotates properly in the bore when being cranked over (I mark mine and install and check for movement before continuing with the install) and with that everything is covered in molly sulfide break in lube. Slathering every single possible part with Isky REV lube, cam, lifter, lifter bore, pushrod tips, rocker are ball, everything. I have yet to have flat tappet cam go bad on me.
get the lifters with the EDM hole in the face, it helps tremendously,. Obviously you can't get a hydraulic lifter with the holes. Also, COMP cams makes a tool to score the lifter bore for improved oiling. Another trick after years of experience with flat tappet cams...>It's been my experience, that on the cams that wipe out a lobe, the lifters weren't turning . They will usually wipe out a lobe in less that 15 minutes, or if they make it that far, maybe 50 miles or less. I Put cam and lifters in engine with ***embly lube .. .turn crankshaft so all the pistons are down in the hole (so valves won't hit pitons) timing chain off... I put like 4 pushrods on at a time ,, (depending on valve spring pressure) put a paint marker dab, on the lifter edge so you can monitor the lifters "turning">> turn CAM over clockwise (running it with a drill is nice. Although turning it with a ratchet will do the same thing )the speed doesn't seem to matter ... and watch to see if lifters are turning .They should all turn consistently Usually 25-30 + degrees per turn minimum, if not you can mix lifters around until you get the lifters to turn at the same rate. If you can't get lifters to turn consistently ,get a different camshaft .This will prevent heart ache and depression later on. You can custom order a camshaft with a couple degrees taper in the lobe. ( I have no idea why they don't do it all the time) Erson can do this no problem. as well as other camshaft manufacturers .The lube you use is a trick. too We use CMD extreme pressure lube. You have to watch out how much ***embly lube you use on cam/lifters. as too much will ultimately clog oil filter. (Also NEVER EVER use a fram filter) but that's a whole other story. Also, be sure springs are not coil binding, have correct pressure. and that the retainers are not hitting the seal/valve guide. Depending on R.P.M. range, and cam lift valve weight ,and retainer weight (***anium? stainless? Inconel, hollow stem etc). usually #130-#150 on the seat , will get you there. with stainless steel valves If you're not gonna turn it too hard (less that 7000) you can get away with less pressure. I hope this helps. I've luckily not experienced a cam failure with this procedure. I have tons of engines out there with flat tappets, that will run forever like that. At the end of the day, I think 99% of the lifters are made by the same Chinese people. The only lifter I know is different are the DELPHI lifters, they have a separate puck, that might be heat treated better.
My BIL crew chiefs on a round track car and all they use is Comp cam solids for the lifters. They are about 250 - 300 a set and have a oil hole in the face. I get some of their cast offs and am running a used set now in my Stude on a used cam in no particular order. And yes it has some BIG valve springs ! But they have pretty well went roller on everything also.
TrickySteve has the answer. EDM hole can be your cams best friend. Iskys are off to the side and Comps are in the center. The extra cost is worth it and just thinking of the tear down and clean out of an engine would just piss me off.
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