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Projects 1937 Chevy Deluxe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GrimmKeeper, Nov 23, 2022.

  1. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    Hey Folks,
    Doing the wireing for my buddy’s 1937 Chevy Deluxe. The interior is gutted right now. I’m using the Painless Performance wire harness for GM and it has an S-10 steering wheel. (Painless has no instructions for that.)

    Has anyone used the Painless harness or have any tips for me before I get started?
    Thank you,
    Art
     
  2. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,717

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1940 Ford

  3. S-10 steering wheel as in a Saginaw column, which is the type that came in S-10 trucks? Or stock 37 Chevy column with an S-10 steering wheel on it? If Saginaw column then any of the wiring diagram for "GM" column should work. If you are using stock 37 column, then you need to follow wiring for a universal type application with dash key and separate turn signal switch.
     
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  4. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    It is a the s10 steering wheel from the Blazer. Don’t know what year
     
  5. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,661

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Not sure what connector came with your Painless kit, so can't comment on whether it will plug right in or not? But if it doesn't you can go to a wrecking yard, or order new online the correct plastic connector, and then simply un-pin the wires, and swap them into one designed for the S10 column.
    I start by cutting most of the plastic ties off the harness and leaving the last 1 or 2 closest to the fuse block. Then lay the groups out according to where they go. One to the dash, one to the front, and one to the rear. Check to make sure the length will reach easily once you've located the spot you want the fuse block to mount. And make sure the fuse block is mounted where it's easily accessible to replace fuses, or test circuits. I like the left kick panel, and on my '39 I welded in a sheet of 20 ga. metal in this area and drilled holes to mount the fuse block. High up enough to not be seen looking in the car, but not so high it takes a contortionist to access fuses.
    The rest is just routing and securing without ending up with too much excess wiring once you reach the destination. I ran my harness wires to the trunk up the A pillar, and above the door. Pulled the dome light wire out of the group at a pint above the door to get to the dome light. There's really no good place to run wires to the rear at the floor level, and running them over the door keeps them out of harm's way. Easy to add wires in the future also, if any were ever needed.
     
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  6. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    I called Painless Tech but they said they don’t make a snap in for the S 10 steering wheel. Dang!I’ll try to post some pictures of this project but I have a harness from Casper Electronics that plugs into the bulkhead of the Grand National motor engine harness. This (should) run the motor when I learn where those 3 wires go in the S 10. I have the diagram of the S 10. Just gotta put the puzzle together! I did lay out the harness like you said. Helps with the vision doesn’t it? Check out my mess!… A3048996-3491-4D82-98DD-71F18B28EF7C.jpeg 6C6682DF-071E-424E-9925-FB66D6287FDE.jpeg View attachment 5579116 View attachment 5579117
     
  7. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,802

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    I put a Painless harness in my 37. Can’t figure out what you’re asking about here, though.

    I put the fuse block on the firewall, drivers side, above where your left foot would be in driving position. The previous owner had mounted the old fuse block there, so I was re-using the holes in the firewall, which was already painted.

    Front group I dropped down through the the firewall using an existing hole. Don’t know if that was originally there, but the nicely belled edge makes me think it was. Other holes, like the transmission tunnel, appear to have been cut with an axe.

    Rear group went up and over the doors using the A pillar. That drops them in to the trunk. I ran them along the inner edge of the wheelwell from there,

    Dash group goes up in to the dash.
     
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  8. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    I think I can run my rear group the way you did. I’m a little confused about what/how connects to the ignition and steering wheel. Painless didn’t have a connection for that. He said he couldn’t help me with that part. I’m still running wires but when I get to the steering wheel connections I’ll have to do some research. image.jpg
     
  9. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,802

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Ok, guessing here, you mean the steering column? Not the steering wheel. No wires go to the steering wheel.

    Also guessing, you have a GM steering column. There are a few variations, you’ll need to identify what you have.

    At the base, you’ll find a half moon shaped thing. That’s your neutral safety switch. It’ll look something like this.

    EEF62CB4-9F91-4E56-A191-6A2E0B5345C1.png

    I think these are all the same. Yours may be different, or missing.

    Then about half way up the column you’ll find your ignition, horn, turn signal wiring plug. There are two, you’ll need to identify which one you have. One has more pins than the other. If I recall correctly, the extra pins are for the cruise control wiring.

    Early, shorter plug is like this, about 3” long.

    DEF7AB03-7369-471B-888B-A8B777BEE79C.png
    D5AE3B96-EEE1-4F72-83AE-CDAC94CF4298.png

    Later, longer plug, is like,this, about 4 1/2” long.

    111F6B55-8A58-4148-860B-103A868CFAD5.png
    3F3EB49F-ACCB-46E7-B5F7-EFEC90023BFB.png


    Once you figure out what you have, it should be clear what goes where. I don’t recall the Painless diagram being hard to figure out.
     
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  10. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    Yes He’s missing the safety switch. I met to say Steering column. Thanks for understanding the mistake for never having done this before. A lot easier with your explaining. Thank you, I’ll keep you posted!
    Art
     
  11. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,661

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    You can buy a connector kit from Speedway and simply un-pin your existing connector, and re-pin the correct new one on it.

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Amer...mn-Connector-Set-GM,373866.html?sku=910500428

    I'm using a 2001 Chevy truck column in my '39 and there's several wires in the connectors that I don't use. Many are tiny wires for relays, to operate cruise control, or wiper relays. I omitted those, and took the ugly wiper/turn signal arm off and replaced the arm with an old school type arm.
     
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  12. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    There are a few wires here I know I will leave out. Thanks for the link! Still at it…
     
  13. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    I might start another thread if that’s better, but it’s going smooth so far. My only snag is the ignition switch wires. I located the Orange, Pink, Brown and purple wires. I don’t know where the Red goes. It’s from the Painless harness, Red #934 Ignition switch power (Bat). My options on the column are:
    B1 Red Fuse Output - Battery
    C2 Red/White Reference voltage feed
    D5 Red Fuse Output - Battery Type 3 Fuse

    Those are my only red ones. The red wire is supposed to provide battery power to the switch. My guess is B1. I searched old post and couldn’t find this one. Anybody know which one it is?

    Thanks,
    Art
     
  14. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,661

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I plugged any wires that were full size back into the new connector. I left out any tiny wires I knew were for low voltage relay connections or devices. All I needed was turn signals, and ignition switch.
     
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  15. GrimmKeeper
    Joined: Nov 23, 2022
    Posts: 11

    GrimmKeeper

    That’s where I am now. I just want signals and ignition. All the full size wires are connected except two red ones. One red (fuse output battery)and one red/white (ignition switch output off, run, crank) I have two red wires to connect from the harness both marked (ignition switch power (bat) Usually when I have a 50/50 decision, I get it wrong!
     

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